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eHaberdasher

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After reading so many positive reviews of your product I am about to pull the trigger on your Benjamin Sartorial Suit in a 39/40 but am concerned about the sizing. I am generally a 40 Regular but don't have anything to measure off of to compare to. A samuelsohn 40 reg fits almost spot on, just need a little taken in but that would be a reference.  I would order the 40 and 42 and return one but don't want to pay for the shipping if I don't have to. 
Thanks for your suggestions.


I don't have any comparison with Samuelsohn - perhaps others here on the forum do? That being said the Benjamin Sartorial is an Italian fit which is meant to hug the body more closely then most North American commercial brands, so while most people who wear a 40R should be able to fit into our euro 50R (39/40R) garments, I believe there is a small minority who benefit from sizing up. I'm not sure how helpful that is but again perhaps others can weigh in?
 

eHaberdasher

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We now offer polished horn button sets ehaberdasher.com => Accessories => other
 

eHaberdasher

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One suggestion - on the next round of Bella Spalla, would you consider not having the pre-sewn sleeve buttonhole outlines? Either that or moving the buttonhole stitching up an inch (which might be too high on many people)?

I have short t-rex arms. I need to shorten a size 42r by 2" in the sleeves. I'm not even sure that's possible in the current batch - to get to 24.5" - and I don't trust a tailor to shorten from the shoulder when the neopolitan shoulder is one of the strongest selling points.

Can you confirm how much the sleeves can be shortened?

Also, are you going to do any more purple line jackets? 


The pre-sewn faux button holes can be undone fairly easily. I thought this would be easier for customers who wanted to open up the sleeve buttons to make them functional and thought this was a decent solution, and yet still allowing customers who needed to shorten or lengthen the sleeves to still be able to do so. It does not have to be shortened from the shoulder. I could go back to the basted sleeves with no faux button hole stitching at all if you guys prefer - what do you guys think?

Yes I will be doing more purple line jackets - already have a bunch of Zegna fabrics set aside for them - thinking of doing MTO with them actually - just trying to focus on a few things at a time but hopefully later this year I will give it a go.
 

eHaberdasher

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The two Benjamin purple line jackets I have (cashmere blend and pure cashmere) are amazing. They make me want more of this super-comfortable cashmere. They are definitely warm, though. I probably won't be able to wear them again until November.

I'm moving more towards trying to obtain year-round jackets. I have four jackets that are just for winter, and they take up a ton of closet space but are not being worn for 6 months of the year. As tempting as pure cashmere is, I wouldn't buy more unless it's a cashmere blend that can be worn year round. 

Speaking of which, could this be worn in 80 degree heat? I'm assuming not, because it's 300 grams and a cashmere blend. But I'm hoping you'll tell me I'm wrong because it's unlined and an open weave, or something like that.

Made to order would be smart. No risk of overstock. Customer knows they can get the size they want. I think your customer base knows your product well enough and trusts you enough to wait 9-10 weeks for a suit/jacket. In fact, it might help you retain customers. There was a time when I wanted to buy a suit and you did not have stock in the right colour. Now that you're restocked, I'm not buying suits for a while because I stocked up elsewhere...


The dark Mediterranean blue may be too heavy for 80 degrees - 70 OK but 80 I'd say not.

Regarding MTO, I'm still working out details on how that would work. For the Bella Spalla it'd be pretty straightforward, but for the Purple Line (fully canvassed) it's definitely going to cost quite a bit more than the Benjamin Sartorial OTR, but may be more customizable like online MTM. Still testing it out as I can and working out all the details.
 

scatterbrain

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After reading so many positive reviews of your product I am about to pull the trigger on your Benjamin Sartorial Suit in a 39/40 but am concerned about the sizing. I am generally a 40 Regular but don't have anything to measure off of to compare to. A samuelsohn 40 reg fits almost spot on, just need a little taken in but that would be a reference. I would order the 40 and 42 and return one but don't want to pay for the shipping if I don't have to.
Thanks for your suggestions.

If you are a 40 in Samuelsohn you are likely a 40 in Benjamin. I am consistently a 42 in Samuelsohn right now (suits and coats) and will be ordering a 42 in Benjamin. If you are buying a "napoli" fit jacket, you definitely don't need to size up, as they had more room in the waist off the rack.

Also, unlike many OTR jackets, there's a bit of room to have the waist let out. 40 would likely be better for you in the shoulders/chest/length, so a 40 might be a better fit even if it needs that alteration.

The pre-sewn faux button holes can be undone fairly easily.... I could go back to the basted sleeves with no faux button hole stitching at all if you guys prefer - what do you guys think?

Yes I will be doing more purple line jackets - already have a bunch of Zegna fabrics set aside for them - thinking of doing MTO with them actually - just trying to focus on a few things at a time but hopefully later this year I will give it a go.
Good to know, thanks. Still would prefer no buttonhole stitching, but it's not a dealbreaker.

Glad to hear you plan to make more Purple Line!
icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
 
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tm42

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If you are a 40 in Samuelsohn you are likely a 40 in Benjamin. I am consistently a 42 in Samuelsohn right now (suits and coats) and will be ordering a 42 in Benjamin. If you are buying a "napoli" fit jacket, you definitely don't need to size up, as they had more room in the waist off the rack.

Also, unlike many OTR jackets, there's a bit of room to have the waist let out. 40 would likely be better for you in the shoulders/chest/length, so a 40 might be a better fit even if it needs that alteration.

Good to know, thanks. Still would prefer no buttonhole stitching, but it's not a dealbreaker.

Glad to hear you plan to make more Purple Line!
icon_gu_b_slayer%5B1%5D.gif
Thank you for the Benjamin advice. I have time so i'll start with the 40 and go from there.
 

eHaberdasher

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If you are a 40 in Samuelsohn you are likely a 40 in Benjamin. I am consistently a 42 in Samuelsohn right now (suits and coats) and will be ordering a 42 in Benjamin. If you are buying a "napoli" fit jacket, you definitely don't need to size up, as they had more room in the waist off the rack.

Also, unlike many OTR jackets, there's a bit of room to have the waist let out. 40 would likely be better for you in the shoulders/chest/length, so a 40 might be a better fit even if it needs that alteration.

Good to know, thanks. Still would prefer no buttonhole stitching, but it's not a dealbreaker.

Glad to hear you plan to make more Purple Line!
icon_gu_b_slayer%5B1%5D.gif
 


So some of you guys prefer no faux stitched button holes - does that mean you prefer the basted sleeves and sleeve buttons unattached? Anyone else have an opinion on this?
 

scatterbrain

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So some of you guys prefer no faux stitched button holes - does that mean you prefer the basted sleeves and sleeve buttons unattached? Anyone else have an opinion on this?
Yes. That is what I mean. Basted sleeves are ideal, imo. I'm still a little concerned undoing the buttonhole may leave the fabric scarred. No one other than me is likely to notice if it did, but still... Then there's the matter of either leaving three buttons, or adding the fourth, and then the stitching might not match, etc. Only the really anally retentive would care about such things...

Cool that you have real horn buttons, btw. You should consider smoked real smoked MOP as an add-on, too. I have found it tough to get real smoked MOP buttons. Just paid $25 for a set for a coat from a little lady in a shop in Montreal...

EDIT: is SFHALF no longer a functioning coupon for int'l customers?
 
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Sudonihm

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Ben,

Can the new Bella Spalla be let out in the waist?

I am neutral on basted sleeves. I like basted turkey though.
 

eHaberdasher

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Ben,

Can the new Bella Spalla be let out in the waist?

I am neutral on basted sleeves. I like basted turkey though.


The waist of the jacket doesn't have much to let out - maybe a little more than 1/2" total. If you ease up on the turkey maybe you won't have to let out the waist! :rotflmao:
 

UserNameToronto

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So some of you guys prefer no faux stitched button holes - does that mean you prefer the basted sleeves and sleeve buttons unattached? Anyone else have an opinion on this?


I've had to alter the length of every jacket sleeve I've ever bought, so I'm happy with unfinished sleeves & unattached buttons.
 

dls160

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Yes. That is what I mean. Basted sleeves are ideal, imo. I'm still a little concerned undoing the buttonhole may leave the fabric scarred. No one other than me is likely to notice if it did, but still... Then there's the matter of either leaving three buttons, or adding the fourth, and then the stitching might not match, etc. Only the really anally retentive would care about such things... 

Cool that you have real horn buttons, btw. You should consider smoked real smoked MOP as an add-on, too. I have found it tough to get real smoked MOP buttons. Just paid $25 for a set for a coat from a little lady in a shop in Montreal...

EDIT: is SFHALF no longer a functioning coupon for int'l customers?


I agree regarding the pre-sewn button holes. I prefer the basted sleeves and then my tailor has been able to shorten the sleeves, raise the vent in the sleeves at the cuff, and then do functioning button holes. With the button holes already stitched, he is having to shorten the sleeve at the shoulder due to the concern that removing the button hole stitching would scar the fabric and you would be able to see it. I know that it would only be the detail oriented/anally retentive individuals that would notice this. But I think that a majority of people on here are sartorially savvy and are drawn to the details. Also, just FYI, I vote for a 9.5+ cm lapel on suits and sport coats. I just picked up a MTM sport coat in navy melange with 11cm lapels and it looks fabulous!

400
 

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