WW Chan's March Tour

[dragon8]

Originally Posted by hackensaw

tchoy - are the VBC and Holland Sherry fabrics the same quality as Zegna? I liked the feel of the Zegna but if I'm just paying a big premium because of the label that seems pointless especially since its a bespoke suit and not purchased at a "zegna" store.

Zegna does not have/place any numbers to their fabric like super 120 or 130 but their fabric line is the equivalent of it. I think Trofeo is the equivalent to Super 150

 

[tchoy]

Originally Posted by hackensaw

tchoy - are the VBC and Holland Sherry fabrics the same quality as Zegna? I liked the feel of the Zegna but if I'm just paying a big premium because of the label that seems pointless especially since its a bespoke suit and not purchased at a "zegna" store.

I have a few suits with Trofeo fabric, its soft and fine and the colours are great but overtime I've notice they haven't worn too well, It's too delicate. I had a solid grey suit made with VBC fabric by Chan and it has hold up quite well. Have a look at the H Lesser book as well for a solid grey. Imo much nicer than the Zegna offerings.

 

[dragon8]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

That would be news to W.W. Chan. Last I heard, he was still alive and well--in his 80s and retired.

Better not let him get near your suit

His son still oversees the business, but Patrick Chu is the head cutter and general manager. He's your man! (And a very good man, too.)

Patrick is a gentleman in every sense of the word.

 

[bcate3]

Originally Posted by J. Cogburn

Must have just missed you! Six trousers for me; a charcoal grey and pearl grey Minnis fresco, a cream and light grey Holland & Sherry gabardine, and a mottled brown ("Dakota") Holland & Sherry cavalry twill. The damage was around $2,800 and the trousers should be ready by mid-June.

First time w/ Chan, no? fwiw, the first pair of trousers I got from them fit tighter in the upper leg & crotch area than i liked requiring changes with later orders. I'm a tricky fit from years of squats - perhaps you're not-- and i do like a little room since i sit on my butt on all day. But, with such a large (first-time?) order you may want them to complete the first pair and work on the rest when you're satisfied with the fit. I'm doing this now. I've lost a little weight and am having them wait on working on a 2d pair of suit pants after i see what they've done with the first. Pants are less complicated than jackets, but I've usually had to tweak the fit of them when ordering from a new tailor. (disregard if you're a chan veteran)

 

[J. Cogburn]

Originally Posted by bcate3

First time w/ Chan, no? fwiw, the first pair of trousers I got from them fit tighter in the upper leg & crotch area than i liked requiring changes with later orders. I'm a tricky fit from years of squats - perhaps you're not-- and i do like a little room since i sit on my butt on all day. But, with such a large (first-time?) order you may want them to complete the first pair and work on the rest when you're satisfied with the fit. I'm doing this now. I've lost a little weight and am having them wait on working on a 2d pair of suit pants after i see what they've done with the first. Pants are less complicated than jackets, but I've usually had to tweak the fit of them when ordering from a new tailor. (disregard if you're a chan veteran)

That's exactly what they're doing. I get a first pair in April to try on and photograph. Then - and only then - do they make the rest.

Yes, I was a Chan virgin until this week. Was quite impressed with Patrick and hope all goes well because I would like to do more business with him down the road.

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by dragon8

I think its always wise to have a fitting. One may have gain weight, some fabric may not tailor the same as the last one one had made.

+1

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by hackensaw

tchoy - are the VBC and Holland Sherry fabrics the same quality as Zegna? I liked the feel of the Zegna but if I'm just paying a big premium because of the label that seems pointless especially since its a bespoke suit and not purchased at a "zegna" store.

Quite the contrary: getting the suit not at a Zegna store - but instead from WW Chan - is a good thing, worth a premium.

 

[dragon8]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

Quite the contrary: getting the suit not at a Zegna store - but instead from WW Chan - is a good thing, worth a premium.

I would disagree. If one likes the cut and fabric of a zegna suit than one should get a Zegna suit. Not all fabrics by Zegna are available to tailors and no tailor can copy a suit exactly.

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by dragon8

I would disagree. If one likes the cut and fabric of a zegna suit than one should get a Zegna suit. Not all fabrics by Zegna are available to tailors and no tailor can copy a suit exactly.

I am certainly no Zegna expert. but would have thought that in terms of workmanship, Chan would beat Zegna.

 

[zjpj83]

I think I'm off Chan. I've been happy, but it's just not convenient any more for me to work with a traveling tailor IMO. Too much lag time.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

Quite the contrary: getting the suit not at a Zegna store - but instead from WW Chan - is a good thing, worth a premium.

+1

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by J. Cogburn

If you request one, yes.

The normal Chan fitting is basted rather than forward. When you ask for a forward you still get essentially a basted fitting. The positive is that it's easier for them to make larger changes. The negative is that you can't predict problems with details such as lining and buttons.

Basted or forward, the quality of the clothes with a fitting is much higher than it is otherwise.

 

[Viktri]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

I am certainly no Zegna expert. but would have thought that in terms of workmanship, Chan would beat Zegna.

I don't know if what you said is true but I think it is irrelevant. I wouldn't prioritize construction over aesthetics.

I agree with dragon8 and, as I walked past Chan's store last week looking for sushi, steered a friend of mine towards Armani MTM over Chan for that reason.

 

[J. Cogburn]

Originally Posted by Viktri

I don't know if what you said is true but I think it is irrelevant. I wouldn't prioritize construction over aesthetics.

I would. Fit is first. Everything else follows. If it doesn't fit well, no cool-eo aesthetics will save the piece. But if it fits, even the plainest thing will look smashing. See Cary Grant.

 

[Viktri]

Originally Posted by J. Cogburn

I would. Fit is first. Everything else follows. If it doesn't fit well, no cool-eo aesthetics will save the piece. But if it fits, even the plainest thing will look smashing. See Cary Grant.
Two things: 1) Construction (workmanship) isn't the same as fit. Aesthetics includes fit. 2) Depending upon the individual's measurements and skill of the measurer, MTM can appear to fit as well as fully custom garments.