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Why the line from pocket to waistband on pants?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Alfred001, May 8, 2012.

  1. Alfred001

    Alfred001 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2012
    I've been looking around for a pair of slim chinos and I think every pair I've seen (if not all of them) have that line that runs from the back pockets to the waistband.

    If you don't know what I'm talking about you can see it here, it lines up with the side of the tag on the waistband (put the mouse pointer over the picture to zoom):

    http://www.stuartslondon.com/trouse...0_1336506903_dcd6c8dcff852a09e92d7b04223aa331

    Is this something that is for some reason necessary for the cut of slim pants, like darts on a jacket? I don't see why it would be. Is this just an ornamentation? I find it unsightly but it seems impossible to find a pair of pants without that.
     
  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    chicago suburbs
    thats a dart, the point is at the pocket the wide part is at the waistband.
    thats what a dart looks like from the outside after it is sewn.
    since your waist is smaller than your seat the dart is there to make
    the waist smaller.
    if the waist in a custom or m2m trouser is a great deal smaller than .
    the seat, the cutter will cut two darts.
    darts are needed also to give the trouser shape over your butt.
    if the difference between the seat and the waist is very small then
    the trouser may not have a dart, like in a big [read fat] mans store.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2012
  3. Alfred001

    Alfred001 Well-Known Member

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    I see. Is there any way to make them without the dart (while still having the difference between the waist and the seat)? I know that there are jackets that don't have darts but can have considerable waist supression.
     
  4. deandbn

    deandbn Senior member

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    Durban South Africa
    Why would you want that Bud. The dart adds style detail, not to mention masculinity. The whole idea of chino is they are meant to be a cheap cotton twill no-nonsense pair of hard wearing pair of workers trousers.
    That they are being paraded there as a high fashion item for 50 pound is ludicrous.
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Alfred, have you only worn jeans? Trying to understand why waist darts are an issue. Darts in jackets and darts at the waist of trousers are two different animals. Trousers without darts on the back would have to have very curved side seams that would not be flattering on anyone
     
  6. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    AS ever wise words, I have not understood what the OP's problem is with darts.
     
  7. erk

    erk Senior member

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    It is a matter of trying to wrap a two dimensional plain (fabric) around a three dimensional object (your ass). You might have noticed whilst flying in planes across oceans that you don't seem to pass over the voids as depicted in this map:

    [​IMG]

    Same concept really.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2012
  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    aqlfradoo

    the pointed things you see on that map are darts.
     
  9. lysandar

    lysandar Senior member

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    Mar 21, 2012
    Quick question. If there's rippling at the back of my pant leg (i.e. front drape is clean but rear isn't) - will adjusting the darts in any way help to resolve this?
     
  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    no, you have to lift the back part to balance the trouser. Darts do nothing related to this
     

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