1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 11: Any Three (3) Customized Ties from Vanda Fine Clothing

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 11th auction of the year is for any three customized ties from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

    Dismiss Notice
Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

(What's the Story) Morning Glory: The Current State of Savile Row

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Griffyndor, Jun 19, 2016.

  1. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,159
    Likes Received:
    540
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    

    Lordsuperb you use a SR tailor. Let's hear about it.
     


  2. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,922
    Likes Received:
    1,666
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    

    I think Steed is about as close as it gets to saville row from the tailors I've used. But under your definitions I don't think they are considered SR. I have used an American tailor based out of DC who trained at Gieves and Hawkes. After touring through SR this past winter I would say his style matches the GH models being represented in the store window. With that stated, he makes a nice suit with some stylistic details I could do without. The quality of construction is on par with Steed with the hand finishing being a bit more rustic.


    I'll probably be making fewer items from here on out and stick to one tailor after moving to a 480 sq ft studio. But if money were no object and I had more space I would like to purchase a suit from Maurice Sedwell. But life is too short and I'd like to focus my money else where these days.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2016


  3. comrade

    comrade Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    6,075
    Likes Received:
    346
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    

    You are probably correct.
     


  4. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,159
    Likes Received:
    540
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    

    I didn't mean to draw a narrow circle around savile row. If you have space there and use the term in your marketing without anyone throwing a fit then it seems to me that you fit the bill. I suppose that one might argue that they don't have their staff there, but lots of houses use outworkers. Maybe there is something to be said for paying the high rent, but again I thought steed had physical space there. In any event, I'd be interested in hearing why one chooses steed over A&S in particular. Same price point, no? That choice in and of itself strikes me as saying something about the lions of the row. I've probably seen 20 people use steed on this board and one use A&S.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2016


  5. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,922
    Likes Received:
    1,666
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    

    Ha, I was asking myself the same question after the first suit was less than ideal. I will give him credit though he was able to fix everything in the end. I decided to give Steed a go after using Paul Stuart Custom and finding tags that said "Union Made" and "MG." I thought I wanted the real thing and I wanted to scratch the itch to find out if a SR suit was better than a factory made suit. I was originally deciding between Steed, S. Hitchcock, and Karl Matthews. In the end I chose Steed because they traveled consistently to the DC area, were using real artisans, and S. Hitchcock was out of my price range. I believe Edwin stated that A&S is about 1200 pounds more than the price of their goods. This also swayed my decision in picking Steed:

    [​IMG]

    The fit and styling of my Paul Stuart suits are what I consider AWESOME! I knew it wouldn't be an exact match to my Paul Stuart but the fit of vox's suit convinced me to give Steed a go. Although I will say I was a little discouraged by the images of Montesquieu and Slewfoot's fit pics. There were no hiccups at the baste fitting, but the finished suit had the shoulders taken in so much my deltoids were bursting out at the seems. Although we've had some hiccups I believe they have me sorted out now and Edwin has an understanding of how I like my clothes to fit:

    [​IMG]

    I've made some tweaks on their house style to get close to the silhouette of my paul stuart. He's raised the chest, extended the shoulders, shortened the jacket, and built the skirt close to my hips to achieve a look I like. It took two commissions to get us there.

    With that stated I'm not sure one SR house is better than the other. They each have their own style quirks that may or may not work with each customer.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2016


  6. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,922
    Likes Received:
    1,666
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    Maurice Sedwell:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  7. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,159
    Likes Received:
    540
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    Here's Taub (all from his instagram and tumblr):

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Pretty incredible. The most unique to me is flat, set-in shoulder in the first pick. Those sleeves are so narrow and the armholes incredibly high. To me that looks incredibly natural. The silk double breasted screams "Edward Sexton", but on closer view you see the unique details like the double dart. And the unlined version in the last pick doesn't look like anything else that I've ever seen from Savile Row. Would love to see some suits on clients.
     


  8. vida

    vida Senior Member

    Messages:
    477
    Likes Received:
    96
    Joined:
    May 6, 2010
    Location:
    right here, right now
    Based on the Taub photos, I would say that being in good physical condition is a key component to looking good in tailoring of any level or price.
     


  9. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,159
    Likes Received:
    540
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    

    Oh, I'm not sure about that. Certainly a great physique helps give an hourglass silhouette, but I don't think that is the only way to look good in tailored clothing. These guys look pretty good to my eye:


    [​IMG]
     


  10. double00

    double00 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    6,356
    Likes Received:
    6,688
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2014
    Location:
    Not Where but When
    The entire point of tailoring is to resolve what is real with what is ideal.

    Imo those taub silhouettes strike me as remarkably feminine. Maybe im alone in that?
     


  11. vida

    vida Senior Member

    Messages:
    477
    Likes Received:
    96
    Joined:
    May 6, 2010
    Location:
    right here, right now
    Yep, they look nice in their tailoring but they also look portly. Drop the stomach and they would look even better!
     


  12. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,159
    Likes Received:
    540
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    

    I think that the Taub silhouette (particularly the pagoda shoulder with the high roping) draws mixed reactions. He uses that style in women's tailoring as well so I think it certainly can be though of as feminine. Undoubtedly those who select it have done so out of a desire to wear that style and they like it, which is good enough for me, but I note that the effect might be a little subtler on a person than those shots on the peg:


    [​IMG]
     


  13. yanagi

    yanagi Senior Member

    Messages:
    434
    Likes Received:
    133
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2014
    

    I think I see what you mean. Compare the Taub overcoat with this one, which I believe is from Huntsman:

    [​IMG]
     


  14. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,922
    Likes Received:
    1,666
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    

    The styling is similar to your cifonelli. What do you hope to achieve by using G&H?
     


  15. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,159
    Likes Received:
    540
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    

    I just admire his work.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by