Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Griffyndor, Jun 19, 2016.
Lordsuperb you use a SR tailor. Let's hear about it.
I think Steed is about as close as it gets to saville row from the tailors I've used. But under your definitions I don't think they are considered SR. I have used an American tailor based out of DC who trained at Gieves and Hawkes. After touring through SR this past winter I would say his style matches the GH models being represented in the store window. With that stated, he makes a nice suit with some stylistic details I could do without. The quality of construction is on par with Steed with the hand finishing being a bit more rustic.
I'll probably be making fewer items from here on out and stick to one tailor after moving to a 480 sq ft studio. But if money were no object and I had more space I would like to purchase a suit from Maurice Sedwell. But life is too short and I'd like to focus my money else where these days.
You are probably correct.
I didn't mean to draw a narrow circle around savile row. If you have space there and use the term in your marketing without anyone throwing a fit then it seems to me that you fit the bill. I suppose that one might argue that they don't have their staff there, but lots of houses use outworkers. Maybe there is something to be said for paying the high rent, but again I thought steed had physical space there. In any event, I'd be interested in hearing why one chooses steed over A&S in particular. Same price point, no? That choice in and of itself strikes me as saying something about the lions of the row. I've probably seen 20 people use steed on this board and one use A&S.
Ha, I was asking myself the same question after the first suit was less than ideal. I will give him credit though he was able to fix everything in the end. I decided to give Steed a go after using Paul Stuart Custom and finding tags that said "Union Made" and "MG." I thought I wanted the real thing and I wanted to scratch the itch to find out if a SR suit was better than a factory made suit. I was originally deciding between Steed, S. Hitchcock, and Karl Matthews. In the end I chose Steed because they traveled consistently to the DC area, were using real artisans, and S. Hitchcock was out of my price range. I believe Edwin stated that A&S is about 1200 pounds more than the price of their goods. This also swayed my decision in picking Steed:
The fit and styling of my Paul Stuart suits are what I consider AWESOME! I knew it wouldn't be an exact match to my Paul Stuart but the fit of vox's suit convinced me to give Steed a go. Although I will say I was a little discouraged by the images of Montesquieu and Slewfoot's fit pics. There were no hiccups at the baste fitting, but the finished suit had the shoulders taken in so much my deltoids were bursting out at the seems. Although we've had some hiccups I believe they have me sorted out now and Edwin has an understanding of how I like my clothes to fit:
I've made some tweaks on their house style to get close to the silhouette of my paul stuart. He's raised the chest, extended the shoulders, shortened the jacket, and built the skirt close to my hips to achieve a look I like. It took two commissions to get us there.
With that stated I'm not sure one SR house is better than the other. They each have their own style quirks that may or may not work with each customer.
Here's Taub (all from his instagram and tumblr):
Pretty incredible. The most unique to me is flat, set-in shoulder in the first pick. Those sleeves are so narrow and the armholes incredibly high. To me that looks incredibly natural. The silk double breasted screams "Edward Sexton", but on closer view you see the unique details like the double dart. And the unlined version in the last pick doesn't look like anything else that I've ever seen from Savile Row. Would love to see some suits on clients.
Based on the Taub photos, I would say that being in good physical condition is a key component to looking good in tailoring of any level or price.
Oh, I'm not sure about that. Certainly a great physique helps give an hourglass silhouette, but I don't think that is the only way to look good in tailored clothing. These guys look pretty good to my eye:
The entire point of tailoring is to resolve what is real with what is ideal.
Imo those taub silhouettes strike me as remarkably feminine. Maybe im alone in that?
Yep, they look nice in their tailoring but they also look portly. Drop the stomach and they would look even better!
I think that the Taub silhouette (particularly the pagoda shoulder with the high roping) draws mixed reactions. He uses that style in women's tailoring as well so I think it certainly can be though of as feminine. Undoubtedly those who select it have done so out of a desire to wear that style and they like it, which is good enough for me, but I note that the effect might be a little subtler on a person than those shots on the peg:
I think I see what you mean. Compare the Taub overcoat with this one, which I believe is from Huntsman:
The styling is similar to your cifonelli. What do you hope to achieve by using G&H?
I just admire his work.
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