(What's the Story) Morning Glory: The Current State of Savile Row

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Griffyndor, Jun 19, 2016.

  1. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Im shocked they only do 800
     
  2. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Why is there no love for American tailors or for items made in Brooklyn?
     
  3. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  4. smittycl

    smittycl Senior member

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    This is quite true. Walk into Barneys New York and their suit department is all Italian. Savile Row to me is bespoke.
     
  5. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    touche.
     
  6. double00

    double00 Senior member

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    mainline chester barrie OTR is not uncommon in US retail, don't know if they're still making for RL Purple Label. I believe Kilgour has retail shops around as well.

    English silk seems to be in fashion these days as well. it could be that the pendulum is swinging away from italy. sorry for any derail.
     
  7. smittycl

    smittycl Senior member

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    I have to admit I've checked all the major retailers and not seen anything above Paul Smith and Richard James (as was mentiond earlier). RL shifted to Caruso and St. Andrews ages ago I believe. I've visited the Row and was impressed (as a complete neophyte at the time) but I think the Italians have seized the day for most Americans anyway.

    I love all the pics above but the high-roped (pagoda?) shoulders are very feminine. Barneys (admission: my favorite store on the planet) carries Cifonelli but I don't really like the silhouette.

    The Steed MTM thing looks appealing but I'm more tempted by Formosa I guess. James Bond is wearing Zegna-made Tom Ford now...
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2016
  8. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Tom Ford looks very Savile row though, sharp lines, longer coat. Perhaps this is the greatest indicator of Savile Row's influence, the biggest luxury suit maker in the world styles his suits in a very English way.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2016
  9. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    I like the no frills look of norton & sons (i.e. no skirt flare).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2016
  10. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Kilgour was my first tailor on the row, approximately 10 years ago. At the time Kilgour was undergoing some pretty dramatic changes in ownership and personnel and I think all the noise resulted in some issues with the final product. I never understood the Shanghai bespoke offering, which was souped-up Chan. They never got my fit quite right in my opinion. That being said, the high level of the workmanship still shows, I think, in this summer lined suit:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    How many items did you order, and what was off with the final goods?
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2016
  12. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^ it's fine. Will post pics in the next day or so. Could be better but it's ok. Had at least two - maybe three - commissions.
     
  13. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I don't know if they still do, but they used to sell Huntsman RTW.
     
  14. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Still do, and it's very over priced for RTW. I mean, the quality is very good...but that price...I guess it's for the quality conscious prince insensitive who don't want the hassle of bespoke (and for whom bespoke is a hassle)
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2016
  15. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^ it's also made in Italy, which strikes me as totally bizarre but so be it.
     

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