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What's the difference in these Florsheim soles?

ts4them

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The first pair are "Royal Imperial" the second pair are "Imperial" . The soles on the second are wider, bulkier and nicer (to me). I won the first pair (only $20), lost the second pair (went for $68). The shoes are very nice w/ little wear but I feel like the soles are a little too 'prissy' for my taste, although I'll probably get used to them. The soles are marked w/ the florsheim label so they are the originals I assume. Do you think the second pair had a new sole put on or just a different model/different year? BTW- the color on the pair I won is much nicer than in the pic, looks like the color of the second pair.

T
 

bengal-stripe

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The second pair has a "storm welt" and an extended sole. This is quite frequently done for heavier, sportier shoes. The first pair has a narrow cut sole, as suits a more elegant style. The sole in the second pair (style "Kenmore", a classic of the Florsheim catalogue)) has not been changed, it's a design feature.

See the stylistic difference between the two pairs: the first on is a "Balmoral" (that's the American term, the English call it "Oxford") while the second one is a "Blucher" (Am.) or "Derby" (Engl.). In a balmoral, the "quarters" (the side pieces containing the eyelets) go under the "vamp" (forepart), while in a blucher the quarters go over the vamp.

A balmoral is considered more of a city shoe, a blucher more of a country shoe.
 

ts4them

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Thanks bengal-stripe for the detailed response. Is it not possible to change the style of sole to a less dressy one? I was hoping to wear them more casually (like w/ slim-fit khakis).
 

Teacher

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You can get them double-soled so that the soles are thicker, but you can't change the welting without the original last and a fairly significant outlay of cash, as this is very labor-intensive. Considering the textured nature of the leather, converting them to double-soled status should be no problem.

As far as "Imperial" and "Royal Imperial" are concerned, RI was used for a while to designate the highest level of Florsheim's designs, but it generally was only a little better than plain old "Imperial." In fact, some Kenmoors are marked one, some are marked the other, and they're exactly the same.
 

bengal-stripe

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Originally Posted by ts4them
Is it not possible to change the style of sole to a less dressy one? I was hoping to wear them more casually (like w/ slim-fit khakis).
I wouldn't bother doing that. Wear them as they are.

Keep an eye out on eBay for the Florsheim "Kenmore", they are quite frequent visitors and another pair in the right size will be around soon. You'll probably get a pair of little used Kenmores cheaper than a re-soling job. Then you have two pairs.

(Even aportnoy must have once started with two pairs, many moons ago.)
 

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