Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[CWOyaji]

Gap uses the lighter weight Kaihara selvedge from Japan for some jeans and jackets, with the stitching done in China. I've worn through a few pairs of those within a year or so of use, but you get what you pay for. Lately I've been collecting heavier weight selvedge, including a couple of pairs of Gustins and this pair from Tellason, which uses denim from the last production of the Cone Mill. They were the last US producer of selvedge. The plant was located in North Carolina and closed a couple of years ago. Tellason is based in San Francisco and they do denim right. If you like high quality jeans I recommend setting up a search in your size on Ebay for some of their jeans and trying them out for yourself. These were mint and only $75 versus the MSRP of $230.

This is it; they're not making this fabric in the US anymore. Thank private equity and financial engineering for that. Blah.

Next trip to Japan, I'll be going to Kojima and will call ahead for some fittings at the shops there for some OG selvedge.

 

[Hotel Cali]

If it’s not too much to ask, could you share some more pics of the McHale pair? I’m super curious. It certainly understandable that McHale made golf shoes, but I don’t see that often.

Here was the discussion in the Canadian shoes thread.

Dacks and other Canadian shoe brands

I have just acquired another pair of early 1950's John McHale Custom shoes. They have the early sock liner with the script oriented parallel to the long axis of the shoe. This style of liner was used from the origins of the John McHale signature line in 1944 to early 1959. The shoes have the...

www.styleforum.net

Dacks and other Canadian shoe brands

I have just acquired another pair of early 1950's John McHale Custom shoes. They have the early sock liner with the script oriented parallel to the long axis of the shoe. This style of liner was used from the origins of the John McHale signature line in 1944 to early 1959. The shoes have the...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Hotel Cali]

I will probably throw a bid on these. I think they are vintage Cole-Hann Imperial of alligator and maybe shell cordovan.

Can anyone help me id if they are real alligator and shell cordovan. (Not much info or response from the seller.)

 

[Oshare]

Hartt camel PTDs on this fine Monday. These shoes are really versatile and go with almost anything. I find myself reaching for them pretty often.

 

[friendlygoz]

Gap uses the lighter weight Kaihara selvedge from Japan for some jeans and jackets, with the stitching done in China. I've worn through a few pairs of those within a year or so of use, but you get what you pay for. Lately I've been collecting heavier weight selvedge, including a couple of pairs of Gustins and this pair from Tellason, which uses denim from the last production of the Cone Mill. They were the last US producer of selvedge. The plant was located in North Carolina and closed a couple of years ago. Tellason is based in San Francisco and they do denim right. If you like high quality jeans I recommend setting up a search in your size on Ebay for some of their jeans and trying them out for yourself. These were mint and only $75 versus the MSRP of $230.
View attachment 1591575
This is it; they're not making this fabric in the US anymore. Thank private equity and financial engineering for that. Blah.
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Next trip to Japan, I'll be going to Kojima and will call ahead for some fittings at the shops there for some OG selvedge.

I’ve tried selvedge jeans a few times. They almost never fit me well me well (I have an athletic build - that’s not a humble brag). When they do fit OK, I somehow mess them up. So I’ve gone to the other end of the spectrum and purchased “advanced fabric” jeans like Revtown. I like them. I have to say that selvedge appeals to me. Every pair I had when I was a kid was “raw” at the beginning of the school year. The break in by the end of the year was great... grass stains and all.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

I found these HS Trask Navy Loafers at a thrift store last week. I really like the natural edge treatment on these. I sometimes forget how nice some vintage Trask shoes are. I have a couple other pairs and I really like them.

I also like the white stitching on these. They are pretty casual but the presence of the stitching means I probably can’t ever use Navy cream polish on these. I used some Bick 4 and that worked so far.

 

[stook1]

I found these HS Trask Navy Loafers at a thrift store last week. I really like the natural edge treatment on these. I sometimes forget how nice some vintage Trask shoes are. I have a couple other pairs and I really like them.

I also like the white stitching on these. They are pretty casual but the presence of the stitching means I probably can’t ever use Navy cream polish on these. I used some Bick 4 and that worked so far.

View attachment 1591779 View attachment 1591780

Those look a lot like Rancourt to me. Does it say where they are made on the lining?

 

[stook1]

I will probably throw a bid on these. I think they are vintage Cole-Hann Imperial of alligator and maybe shell cordovan.

View attachment 1591604
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Can anyone help me id if they are real alligator and shell cordovan. (Not much info or response from the seller.)

Can't comment on the gator but they do look like shell on the saddles to me. Hard to be absolutely sure but judging by the eyelets it's a reasonable judgment, I think.

 

[pasadena man]

I found these HS Trask Navy Loafers at a thrift store last week. I really like the natural edge treatment on these. I sometimes forget how nice some vintage Trask shoes are. I have a couple other pairs and I really like them.

I also like the white stitching on these. They are pretty casual but the presence of the stitching means I probably can’t ever use Navy cream polish on these. I used some Bick 4 and that worked so far.

View attachment 1591779 View attachment 1591780

I really like Trask as well. I've had a number of pairs of their bison loafers. Great textural interest, good quality and durability, a more rustic design that matches the rough bison texture; sort of like Alden's illegitimate country cousin to me.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Those look a lot like Rancourt to me. Does it say where they are made on the lining?

I really like Trask as well. I've had a number of pairs of their bison loafers. Great textural interest, good quality and durability, a more rustic design that matches the rough bison texture; sort of like Alden's illegitimate country cousin to me.

@stook1 Dang. I was hoping you were right that they are Rancourt. But, I just checked and they say Genuine Handsewn and Made in Mexico. Bummer. (I’m not saying anything bad about MexicoI was hoping it said “USA” or even Maine.

I have at least two other Trask and one was Made in USA. The other pair (white suede Bucks) also say Genuine Handsewn but were made in Portugal.

@pasadena man Mine are Bison loafers too. I think that is what Trask is known for. I, too, really like the texture and interest. Bison seems to wear forever.

My one complaint about the Trask loafers is strange. The structure is a little loose (I have had them for a long time). Sometimes, I almost fall off the sole to the side. I’m probably not describing it well. But, if my step is a little off, my foot can slide to the outside and my foot tips over to the side. Again, hard to describe.

My brother (who is not like us because he has a total of 7 pairs of shoes) also has a pair of Trask. They are plain toe and are Bison. I was surprised he would have a pair that is fairly obscure compared with many others.

 

[CWOyaji]

J&M tassel gators

These were listed as embossed leather, but the umbilical scars up on the vamps are a telltale sign they’re real.

Custom made for somebody.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Oh man! I am so excited. I got pictures back from the Cobbler on my Florsheim Bison LWB and the 1959 Florsheim Alligator/Crocodile Derby.

 

[sam67]

‘New ‘ Stuart McGuire shell going to get some clams for dinner. Fits big for a 10.5D

 

[mormonopoly]

J&M tassel gators View attachment 1591862
These were listed as embossed leather but the umbilical scars up on the vamps is a telltale sign they’re real.
View attachment 1591863
Made custom for somebody.
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Now that’s a special pair. The J&M hand made line was the best shoe made in the US for decades.

 

[smfdoc]

J&M tassel gators
View attachment 1591908


These were listed as embossed leather but the umbilical scars up on the vamps is a telltale sign they’re real.
View attachment 1591863
Made custom for somebody.
View attachment 1591864

Spoiler: Love finding listings like this

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Hey now, show pictures of the umbilical on the vamps.