Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[CWOyaji]

I am getting some quotes from Steve Doudaklian at Bedos. I might send to him for fix and then try to sell.

@suitforcourt those shoes look so nice I think it'd be a shame if they didn't find a good home.

 

[smfdoc]

The problem is Florsheim, as a brand, can no longer support premium pricing and thus can't support the cost of 1st world labor. Today they are a value / fast fashion brand that sells 100 dollar (at best) shoes, with a few overpriced made-in-India GY welted shoes (that are only of middling construction) and a few questionable Italian made models (which are either blake or glued). The average shoe buyer today doesn't recall what Florsheim used to be.

In 1988, if you mentioned Florsheim to someone, this is what might have come to mind:

Spoiler

Imperials, bal-wingtip, circa ~ '88. Yeah, I know it's CG, but I don't care 'cause I love 'em (and got them cheap as NOS about 3 years ago). I've worn them quite a bit (including to an event today) and they're holding up well (other than I need to put taps front and back - NYC sidewalks are brutal

In 2018, if you mention Florsheim to someone, this is more likely what they will think of (you may not want to see what follows):

Spoiler

I got these horrors a few years ago (clearance on Amazon or Zappos) to fit my heavily bandaged foot (in the latter stages of an injury recovery). The interior lining started disintegrating almost immediately due to the paper thin leather. Oddly, the exterior leather of the uppers are actually not terrible (though the leather is thin - still a waste on these hideously ugly goober shoes). I primarily use them in the garage, yard and at the park with the kids, or anyplace where I absolutely cannot afford to care about my shoes.

What a fall for Florsheim in the past 40 years. It’s like a 3 star restaurant went downhill and now only sells bad hotdogs.

 

[wasmisterfu]

These are the Alden 994s from yesterday, they cleaned up pretty good. Sorry, they are N/A.
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Spoiler: Before & During Cleanup

Car potato pic, as I got them yesterday.
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After brushing and a Lexol bath, before sleeping overnight with trees in to smooth out the rolls.
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Then today Saphir Renovateur, AE Cordovan cream, brushing and polishing with lots of elbow grease.
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Oh I'd say they cleaned up beautifully. Job well done.

 

[wasmisterfu]

What a fall for Florsheim in the past 40 years. It’s like a 3 star restaurant went downhill and now only sells bad hotdogs.

Yeah, they're those squishy baloney tasting ones that have that disconcerting texture, so that when you bite into them, it's instant regret and disappointment.

 

[wasmisterfu]

This pair of 60s Allen Edmonds are ending today. Very hard to find AE pairs that old. I like the toe medallion.

https://ebay.to/2Gc3RDq

If these were anywhere near my size, I'd have snatched them up in a heartbeat. I think they've been relisted.

 

[suitforcourt]

I gotta ask, how is one supposed to wear a shoe with a tear like that? That's a high-stress point, will only get worse is not addressed and it seems like a tricky place to attempt a patch.

I just spoke to a reputable cobbler. He says it can be fixed for $55-75 (Canadian).

 

[wasmisterfu]

I just spoke to a reputable cobbler. He says it can be fixed for $55-75 (Canadian).

They're beautiful shoes so I'm glad a cobbler can do something for them as they deserve a good home.

 

[suitforcourt]

They're beautiful shoes so I'm glad a cobbler can do something for them as they deserve a good home.

Steve Doudaklian from Bedos says $48 US for the work. Look at his pics on Facebook. A true craftsman! Plus our leader @smfdoc has used him before.

 

[wasmisterfu]

Thanks! Here are some photos.
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First off, those things are nice... the 4 last's proportions work really well with that derby wingtip style. I'm surprised this model was only around for two years.

Secondly, based on the branding on the soles and insoles, the style and density of the welt stitch (and color), these are almost certainly inside the 95-97 window of the their catalog appearance.

 

[smfdoc]

Steve Doudaklian from Bedos says $48 US for the work. Look at his pics on Facebook. A true craftsman! Plus our leader @smfdoc has used him before.

I agree. I would absolutely use Steve for the job over anyone that I know. I’m glad to see his prices are competitive as well. Even if he was higher, it would be worth the cost.

Now, about this title of being the “leader“, I’m not sure about that. I remember getting a members only jacket in the 1980s and I loved it until all the other members got together, voted, and made me give it back.

 

[crgraham32]

First off, those things are nice... the 4 last's proportions work really well with that derby wingtip style. I'm surprised this model was only around for two years.

Secondly, based on the branding on the soles and insoles, the style and density of the welt stitch (and color), these are almost certainly inside the 95-97 window of the their catalog appearance.

Thanks! I'm very happy with them. They've had some tender loving care from me with Saphir products once I got them, but they showed up pretty nice. Not bad for $51.00 on ebay ($61.00 shipped)!

 

[wasmisterfu]

Now, about this title of being the “leader“, I’m not sure about that. I remember getting a members only jacket in the 1980s and I loved it until all the other members got together, voted, and made me give it back.

So what you're saying is... you put it on and something happened?

 

[wasmisterfu]

Thanks! They've had some tender loving care from me with Saphir products once I got them, but they showed up pretty nice. Not bad for $51.00 on ebay ($61.00 shipped)!

That's the best part... you get them, you unbox them and you get to work making them beautiful again. And given the sole wear and insole condition, those things haven't been worn much. Between (carefully done) resoles and full recrafts, those shoes have more than 97% of their useful lifespan left in them.

About half my collection was bought new, half from eBay finds and such. All my favorite pairs are like yours; rare, long-forgotten models that are almost always underused and reasonably priced because they aren't current or long-standing popular models. It's the rare, short-lived models - or those that were once popular but now dwindling in numbers - that make for the most interesting shoes.

 

[suitforcourt]

I agree. I would absolutely use Steve for the job over anyone that I know. I’m glad to see his prices are competitive as well. Even if he was higher, it would be worth the cost.

Now, about this title of being the “leader“, I’m not sure about that. I remember getting a members only jacket in the 1980s and I loved it until all the other members got together, voted, and made me give it back.

If you're not our leader, then I am the King of England.

 

[madhat]

If you're not our leader, then I am the King of England.

If you are a Scottish lord, then I am Mickey Mouse!