Versatility of a Belstaff Jacket and Question on fit (pics included)

[teddieriley]

L. if i got the xl, it would have sat in the closet.

 

[jsg28]

Originally Posted by teddieriley

L. if i got the xl, it would have sat in the closet.

Do you find the arms/biceps weirdly tight? I feel like it is giving me an excuse not to go to the gym.

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by jsg28

Do you find the arms/biceps weirdly tight? I feel like it is giving me an excuse not to go to the gym.

It is quite slim, but not overly so or restricting. I'm not walking around flexing in the jacket anyway. If your biceps flexed are pushing 17" in and above, I can see the sleeves not working. But seeing as I'm not buff anyway, it is fine and consistent with the overall slim fit with high armholes. Going up to the XL gives more room than I care for.

 

[Mr. Moo]

teddie, that jacket is great.

What is this belted jacket type called (i.e. what do I search for online?)

Thanks.

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

teddie, that jacket is great.

What is this belted jacket type called (i.e. what do I search for online?)

Thanks.

Moo - the Roadmaster. Should be able to find it on the Belstaff site. Difficult to find any U.S. based stockists, except for Barneys (at least for this season anyway). If you go to the physical store, it's in the Coop section.

I think the Trialmaster is also belted, but one of the chest pockets is angled. Not sure what the other differences are.

 

[HomerJ]

Looks good TR. Hangten, damn, you cut an impressive figure, great fit. I started a thread on Belstaff in Entertainment a while ago.

 

[vanbling]

You guys are refering to the belstaff panther as a motorcycle jacket yet it is a fashion jacket since the italian took ownership.

They are not as heavy as belstaff leathers of old and the cut has been changed to fashion fit if you like.

For example the sleeves on the old belstaffs are longer, this was the correct cut when riding a bike with your arms stretched forward. The new style are also a tailored cut, if you buy an old one they are a straight cut.

IMO the Belstaff Panther in the pictures is tight as it is creasing in the armpits. Would no doubt look better in zipped, at least on that owner.

 

[zippyh]

Originally Posted by teddieriley

Moo - the Roadmaster. Should be able to find it on the Belstaff site. Difficult to find any U.S. based stockists, except for Barneys (at least for this season anyway). If you go to the physical store, it's in the Coop section.

I think the Trialmaster is also belted, but one of the chest pockets is angled. Not sure what the other differences are.

J. Crew has them online.
UK store Oi Polloi too.

 

[jsg28]

So, I tried on the Roadmaster and really like it. But I am curious about the Che/Trialmaster too. How does the fabric feel? It is "washed" but I am not sure what that means... It doesn't look waxed/waterproof in the photos, but it is hard to tell. Anybody share some insights?

 

[j]

I don't think these jackets should be worn that tight. Touring style motorcycle jackets like these were (are) meant to be worn over layers of warm clothing and give some room to move. These are more like the equivalent of today's Aerostich Roadcrafter than say, a Vanson Comet. A touring style jacket is meant to keep you warm more than protect you while a cafe/race style jacket sacrifices warmth for protection. Besides the "authenticity" question, I think the slightly looser fit looks a lot better, honestly.

 

[teddieriley]

Thanks for the opinion, J. Too late though, committed to the L.

Interesting how everyone has an opinion about how the jacket is suppose to fit, particularly in light of its design as a motorcycle jacket. Since i don't ride a motorcycle nor do I plan on layering much, I just find the XL to be too big. I only see a slight difference in fit between the L and XL in the pics, particularly with the XL jacket being cinched by the belt. But IRL, the feel of how much bigger the XL is evident, particularly because I can fit a suit jacket underneath with room to spare and the sleeves being overly long. I think the shoulders fit a little better with the XL, but everything else - chest, waist, sleeves - are more appropriate for someone bigger than me.

As I said earlier, a size in between would have been perfect, but seeing as this is RTW, need to take what works best, on balance.

 

[j]

Yeah, whatever you're happy with. The L looks good too, just between the two, personally I'd go with the larger or preferably in-between size, if it existed.

 

[Spark]

I grew up racing dirt bikes and wearing an original Bellstaff Trialmaster pretty much nonstop from the age of 15 on. Absolutely bombproof jacket that gets better with age - the process of re-waxing it (do it yourself - quite easy) changes the texture of the material and adds a leather-like patina over the years. The jacket also tends to form to the shape of your body...sort of like the way 501s do.

Although I think they only come in black today, you used to be able to buy them in black, red, and -- I think - green. You certainly couldn't buy a women's version. The red ones were awful if you actually rode a bike.. became filthy over time; black was the way to go. They were a staple of the off-road set, particularly the trials (slow, precision riding over obstacles) and the enduro (long distance races through the woods) crowds, but the "Trialmaster" name came from the International Six Day Trials (ISDT) that were the unofficial Olympics of off road motorcycling and were hosted by different countries every few years. I went to the first ever USA-hosted ISDT in Massachusetts in the 70s and everyone was wearing them; most of the competitors had full suits.

My girlfriends hated that jacket because it smelled from the wax and oil, but I adored it. I probably outgrew it in my late 20s/early 30s and stored it someplace. I tend to believe my wife tossed it out in the process of one of our moves. Broke my heart when I realized it.

In a fit of nostalgia, I bought an International Jacket last year (marketing hype is that it was used by British sub officers in WWII, but it is same as Bellstaff except that upper pocket is angled and has a zipper underneath the fold). Looked at trying to buy a used one like my old rig, but the aftermarket prices were a real gouge in the eye.

I was surprised at the sizing -- I'm a standard 42 and went up two full sizes so I could layer something - anything - underneath it. Material seemed a tad thinner than I remember, but still plenty stout. Biggest difference I noticed was that all the brass buttons had a thin plastic coating over them to prevent tarnishing over time; the old ones didn't have that and always got a nice patina. It bugged me in that too-shiny-blazer-button kinda way at first, but I'm over it.

I don't think I'd wear this rig over a suit or a sports coat. First the cut is short below the belt, so you're jacket is always poking out, and then it tends to pull up even more if you cinch or knot the belt. I think of it as true outerwear that goes with jeans, cords, moleskins, whatever.

Great rain jacket and nice break from all the usual faux mountain gear you see around.

Word to the wise: If you get one, do not sit in a heated car seat while wearing it...very messy and tough to clean off.

Hope this helps...

 

[j]

Originally Posted by Spark

Word to the wise: If you get one, do not sit in a heated car seat while wearing it...very messy and tough to clean off.

That's one I hadn't heard before, but really good info to know. Thanks.