Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[oldworldelegance]

LL QUCT

That's one example where there is nothing quite like the LL version.
W Bill "Whipcords And Cavalry Twills" has some decent ones, but they are much lighter than the LL version (380g vs 600g).

 

[oldworldelegance]

What do you guys think about wearing a “lighter” jacket with a heavier pair of trousers? I’ve been eyeing a rather nice wool/cashmere fabric from Rogna, which I’ve been thinking of using to make a jacket. It’s around 330g. My flannel trousers I have (and which I’ve been thinking of pairing with the jacket) are heavier (some around 370g and some 450g). Would it be odd to make that kind of pairing?

No, that would be perfectly fine, particularly given that the jacket is wool/cashmere. If you were pairing a linen jacket with flannel then it would look odd.

 

[camez_]

Fantastic! Thanks for the pictures.

I love the reverse stripe. I'm looking forward to picking up my finished LL reverse stripe suit tomorrow (fingers crossed). Hardy Minis has some but the stripes could be a bit wider like the LL version.

Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean by 1BPL? 1 button ...?

1 button, peak lapel

 

[JHWilliams]

My objection to super 130s / 120s isn’t necessarily durability (which it is when you get up to super 180s), but its identity: is it a summer suit? Or a winter suit?

Often times, if it’s lightweight (summer) it does not breath enough for summer. Whereas if it’s for winter, it’s too light for walking around outside.

On a note about lightweight, I really hate the wrinkles that emerge too. Whereas with heavier fabrics, the wrinkles fall out nicely & I prefer mohair blends / frescos for summer suits.

I find the super 120’s-super 150’s to work well in autumn, spring, and early winter.

I have never ventured into super 180’s, dare I say Super 200’s. Genesis from Minnis is an interesting read. I wonder if it wrinkles when you breathe.

 

[Simon A]

Can anyone point me in the direction of Calvary twill?

Dugdale have a good range in their Invincible book, from 480-600g. H.E. Box have 990g Cavalry Twills, and Farnhill & Hirst have a version at 1000g.

 

[DorianGreen]

Dugdale have a good range in their Invincible book, from 480-600g. H.E. Box have 990g Cavalry Twills, and Farnhill & Hirst have a version at 1000g.

I hadn't thought the weight could be that heavy. I have a pair of trousers in grey cavalry twill, but honestly I can't remember the weight, would guess more 500/600g though.

 

[camez_]

standard is between 500 and 650

 

[DorianGreen]

standard is between 500 and 650

Thanks, what is that huge weight supposed for?

 

[ericgereghty]

@tim_horton @jonathanS do y'all ever use mohair blends for odd trousers? I've not, but, in speaking only to the Minnis Fresco & mohair blended fresco, I've found the mohair to be dramatically better* in regards to wrinkle resistance, and would be curious to at least consider using mohair fabric for odd trews.

@Simon A do you by chance have links for either of the super heavyweights?

*regular Fresco is still plenty good on this front, admittedly.

 

[Fad P]

I'm trying to source the Cacciopolli 580329 (5803 Worsted & Flannels), but my tailor can't get it from his supplier. Do you know if it has been discontinued, or if Cacciopolli simply changed the name/number? Any insight would be much appreciated!

 

[CLH03]

@tim_horton @jonathanS do y'all ever use mohair blends for odd trousers? I've not, but, in speaking only to the Minnis Fresco & mohair blended fresco, I've found the mohair to be dramatically better* in regards to wrinkle resistance, and would be curious to at least consider using mohair fabric for odd trews.

@Simon A do you by chance have links for either of the super heavyweights?

*regular Fresco is still plenty good on this front, admittedly.

How would you describe the difference between the mohair fresco and the regular fresco? I’ve been debating between the two, for a 3 season warmer weather suit.

 

[ericgereghty]

How would you describe the difference between the mohair fresco and the regular fresco? I’ve been debating between the two, for a 3 season warmer weather suit.

Mohair is slicker looking and grittier feeling. Holds a better crease/sheds wrinkles better, in my opinion.
All things being equal, I'd go mohair

 

[CLH03]

Mohair is slicker looking and grittier feeling. Holds a better crease/sheds wrinkles better, in my opinion.
All things being equal, I'd go mohair

Thanks. I’m liking the colors they have as well.

 

[Simon A]

@Simon A do you by chance have links for either of these heavyweights?

H.E.Box

Farnhill and Hirst

 

[jonathanS]

H.E.Box

Farnhill and Hirst

For 1kg cavalry twills, are those for trousers? Or overcoats?