Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Sfba]

What is the workhorse worsted king these days in the 12/13 oz category? Feel free to split hairs between the usual suspects!

 

[Concordia]

Used to be a matter of taste between Lesser 13 and Botany. Now it seems that standards have slipped. Whether that brings previous second choices to the fore, or pushes people to limited-run premium stuff is an interesting question.

London Lounge has done a few excellent 13oz classics. Taylor & Lodge, part of the Lesser family, has a small book of evergreens, most of which include Golden Bale wool. And Lesser's own Golden Bale offerings are still out there, as are the various Escorial options.

 

[camez_]

What is the workhorse worsted king these days in the 12/13 oz category? Feel free to split hairs between the usual suspects!

let's make a list:

standeven - british classic
dugdale - royal classic vantage / english & town classics
Drapers - superbio and beausoleil (ex five stars)
holland & sherry - intercity / city of london
fox bros - worsted classics
hfw - classic
schofield & smith - westminster
bateman ogden - westminster II & york (both 14oz tho) as they don't have a 12/13oz range?!
smith woolens - botany
harrison's - oyster

I surely have forgotten some, but this is the essential list.

I'm a big fan of Standeven's, drapers' and H&S' cloth, so I'm a bit biased
dry hand, good drape, everything you could ask for

botany is a bit softer to the hand iirc

 

[aristoi bcn]

Harrisons Oyster is my favourite based on the (many) swatches I have.

 

[jonathanS]

let's make a list:

standeven - british classic
dugdale - royal classic vantage / english & town classics
holland & sherry - intercity / city of london
fox bros - worsted classics
hfw - classic
schofield & smith - westminster
bateman ogden - westminster II & york (both 14oz tho)
smith woolens - botany
harrison's - oyster

I surely have forgotten some, but this is the essential list.

I'm a big fan of Standeven's and H&S' cloth, so I'm a bit biased
dry hand, good drape, everything you could ask for

botany is a bit softer to the hand iirc

Would dormieul krono 12 fall in that too?

Also, standeven heritage twist, although that may be closer to 14oz. Is the fox worsted classics their London shrunk? I like those 2.

 

[camez_]

Would dormieul krono 12 fall in that too?

Also, standeven heritage twist, although that may be closer to 14oz. Is the fox worsted classics their London shrunk? I like those 2.

there is only a krono 11 iirc but that's 11oz/300g?

yes, heritage twist is superb but a bit heavier (400g/14oz)

Actually, I only listed the ranges that I handled myself and can say something about

 

[Jamesbond1]

Donegal Tweed for a suit any recommendations without going bankrupt? 350-400gms range?

 

[Crispyj]

Magee

Donegal Tweed for a suit any recommendations without going bankrupt? 350-400gms range?

 

[Big Phil]

Tons. Some of the usual suspects are Fresco (Minnis), 4-Ply (Drapers/VBC), Fox Air, Standeven Explorer.
If you're amenable to a bit of sheen, look for something with some mohair in it. Minnis has some options in their Fresco book. I have a few suits in it, and I find it wears quite nicely, relative to their plain, 100% wool fresco. Not demonstrably hotter, in my opinion. But, more rigid, so take that into account.

Found this supersonic fabric which seems to be a great match for what I’m looking for. Saw it in person and feels breathable and light. Any thoughts on supersonic by chance?

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

let's make a list:

standeven - british classic
dugdale - royal classic vantage / english & town classics
holland & sherry - intercity / city of london
fox bros - worsted classics
hfw - classic
schofield & smith - westminster
bateman ogden - westminster II & york (both 14oz tho) as they don't have a 12/13oz range?!
smith woolens - botany
harrison's - oyster

I surely have forgotten some, but this is the essential list.

I'm a big fan of Standeven's and H&S' cloth, so I'm a bit biased
dry hand, good drape, everything you could ask for

botany is a bit softer to the hand iirc

Also Drapers Superbio.

 

[classicalthunde]

Also Drapers Superbio.

Does anyone know what the difference between the old 5-stars book and the modern Superbio is?

Seems to be the modern version of the book, but not sure if anything else changed beside the name.

Have a 5 stars suit from Hemrajani, love the cloth

 

[kid1002]

Does anyone know if Loro Piana still offers their Pecora Nera cloth? Some of my local tailor shops stopped stocking this bunch since early this year.

 

[jonathanS]

Does anyone know what the difference between the old 5-stars book and the modern Superbio is?

Seems to be the modern version of the book, but not sure if anything else changed beside the name.

Have a 5 stars suit from Hemrajani, love the cloth

It’s just rebranded.

I was curious about five star, I’ve never seen the book. Is it a worsted? Or is it a worsted flannel? I have an old five star back when Carlo Barbara made it that is a worsted flannel (and awesome fabric). So I was curious about other’s experience with the fabric.

 

[kid1002]

It’s just rebranded.

I was curious about five star, I’ve never seen the book. Is it a worsted? Or is it a worsted flannel? I have an old five star back when Carlo Barbara made it that is a worsted flannel (and awesome fabric). So I was curious about other’s experience with the fabric.

The Five Star bunch from Drapers is worsted.

 

[Sreezy36]

let's make a list:

standeven - british classic
dugdale - royal classic vantage / english & town classics
holland & sherry - intercity / city of london
fox bros - worsted classics
hfw - classic
schofield & smith - westminster
bateman ogden - westminster II & york (both 14oz tho) as they don't have a 12/13oz range?!
smith woolens - botany
harrison's - oyster

I surely have forgotten some, but this is the essential list.

I'm a big fan of Standeven's and H&S' cloth, so I'm a bit biased
dry hand, good drape, everything you could ask for

botany is a bit softer to the hand iirc

This is a solid and comprehensive list. The only addition that I can think of is “superbio and beausoleil” from drapers/vbc. It’s essentially the updated 13oz 5 star bunch(discontinued).

Overall, once fully updated, the list should be bookmarked. Shoutout to @camez_