Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JHWilliams]

It’s too heavy.

I respectfully disagree. It is the perfect weight for old school English flannel. Perfect for New England autumn winter.

 

[xizenta]

He said it was from Abraham Moon, pure wool, about 375g, bought a while ago. Not sure if they still have stock.

Found it. Ordered it. Tailor is cutting it today.

Doing a 1 button Dinner Jacket with notch lapels.

I'm thinking fabric covered buttons, what say you all?

Also purchased a "Vantablack" trouser length of 60/40 kid mohair cheap from a Halstead seller on eBay. Wonder what bunch this is from. Surely they named the color themselves as I doubt the distributor for Halstead, whoever it is, used that name.

 

[bernoulli]

I'm getting a Fresco Lite suit MTM. For the very hottest days where Linen isn't appropriate.
It's going to be a Navy suit, 3r2, natural shoulder, jetted pockets, also used for things like summer weddings in incredibly warm climates etc.

I'm torn between the 510219 and 510220 shades - does anyone have any input? I think I'm leaning slightly towards 510219, but wonder if it'd have too much of a contrast with black shoes for more formal occasions (white shirt + tie).

I have several suits in Fresco Lite. By far, my favorite ones are the mock leno ones. They are solid but textured. I don't like their plain fresco lite as I feel they are too flat. If the difference between the 219 and 220 is similar to the difference between navy and dark navy in mock lenos (they should be close), either is fine. I have both and can't see any being considered "less formal."

Double-breasted in navy and three-piece in dark navy below.

 

[CorozoButton]

I have several suits in Fresco Lite. By far, my favorite ones are the mock leno ones. They are solid but textured. I don't like their plain fresco lite as I feel they are too flat. If the difference between the 219 and 220 is similar to the difference between navy and dark navy in mock lenos (they should be close), either is fine. I have both and can't see any being considered "less formal."

Double-breasted in navy and three-piece in dark navy below.
View attachment 1947485 View attachment 1947487 View attachment 1947489

Thanks for this. I actually have the dark navy Mock Leno has a sport coat (510244). Am I right in understanding that you have the Mock Leno made up as full suits? I can't imagine the fabric working as trousers, as it's so loose/open?

It's difficult to compare as the texture is so different, but when I hold my mock leno sc up to the plain fresco lite swatches, it looks like the dark navy is in between the two (so 510244, in terms of shade looks mid way between 510219 and 510220).

 

[bernoulli]

Thanks for this. I actually have the dark navy Mock Leno has a sport coat (510244). Am I right in understanding that you have the Mock Leno made up as full suits? I can't imagine the fabric working as trousers, as it's so loose/open?

It's difficult to compare as the texture is so different, but when I hold my mock leno sc up to the plain fresco lite swatches, it looks like the dark navy is in between the two (so 510244, in terms of shade looks mid way between 510219 and 510220).

Yes, I had mock-leno Frescos made as suits. Don't see any problem with it. At least one of the suits I have taken all over the world. It doesn't crease, and it is always ready to go.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Found it. Ordered it. Tailor is cutting it today.

Doing a 1 button Dinner Jacket with notch lapels.

I'm thinking fabric covered buttons, what say you all?

Also purchased a "Vantablack" trouser length of 60/40 kid mohair cheap from a Halstead seller on eBay. Wonder what bunch this is from. Surely they named the color themselves as I doubt the distributor for Halstead, whoever it is, used that name.

scratchy or soft?

 

[xizenta]

scratchy or soft?

Don't know cause I had it shipped directly to my tailor, but the wool used in the fabric is actually 100% lambswool so I am expecting a very soft hand.

What was the source of the photo in your article, did you take it yourself? I would love to see more photos of that jacket. I saw another collection of Gordon jackets on Angel's website but they were with brass buttons and much brighter.

 

[Carl@]

Dear Gentlemen,

As temperatures currently rising slowly over here in Central Europe, I've been considering commissioning a navy sport coat (no brass buttons) for future spring/summer seasons. Since I don't tend to get too hot, I'd be fine with a heavier fabric. Lightweight fabrics are not my preference (8-9oz). On really hot days (above 32 degrees Celsius/90 degrees Fahrenheit) I usually don’t wear a jacket anyways.

I thought of a classic hopsack weave, but I'm open to suggestions for a navy odd jacket. Do you have any favorites that you would recommend? I appreciate any input you may have.

 

[jeremygo]

lovat teviot 907
430g

Looks great! I’ve been eyeing options from that book for a new SC. How does the fabic feel/how hefty is it?

 

[UrbanComposition]

Don't know cause I had it shipped directly to my tailor, but the wool used in the fabric is actually 100% lambswool so I am expecting a very soft hand.

What was the source of the photo in your article, did you take it yourself? I would love to see more photos of that jacket. I saw another collection of Gordon jackets on Angel's website but they were with brass buttons and much brighter.

No, that's an old picture, Angel hasn't used that fabric in a while. I do like the yellow overcheck; the Harrison's is cashmere with no overcheck at all. I'm afraid it might look (I can't believe I'm typing this) too boring.

 

[Tzerkuso]

Dear Gentlemen,

As temperatures currently rising slowly over here in Central Europe, I've been considering commissioning a navy sport coat (no brass buttons) for future spring/summer seasons. Since I don't tend to get too hot, I'd be fine with a heavier fabric. Lightweight fabrics are not my preference (8-9oz). On really hot days (above 32 degrees Celsius/90 degrees Fahrenheit) I usually don’t wear a jacket anyways.

I thought of a classic hopsack weave, but I'm open to suggestions for a navy odd jacket. Do you have any favorites that you would recommend? I appreciate any input you may have.

Hardy Minnis Mock Leno from the Fresco III bunch - has texture, crisp, wrinkle resistant, breathable.

 

[Megakurth]

The Minnis heavy mockleno should be on the way to those who supported the run.

Received last week. Another fine run by @kolecho.

May stay unfunded for a bit until closer to the fall, but throwing around a few ideas in my head from a 4x2 double breasted with 2 patch, barchetta and spalla and antiqued silver buttons (what’s the general consensus on a short man in a DB these days?) to a peak lapel one button with a slightly more structured shoulder… but in some respects the sky’s the limit.

I have a 2 button natural shoulder in blue Mockleno with a lower gorge and a 3r2 triple patch with spalla from the last special run of Mock Leno.

Open to any thoughts and suggestions

 

[bernoulli]

Hardy Minnis Mock Leno from the Fresco III bunch - has texture, crisp, wrinkle resistant, breathable.

And it can be made into a suit to the surprise of many

 

[kolecho]

Thanks for this. I actually have the dark navy Mock Leno has a sport coat (510244). Am I right in understanding that you have the Mock Leno made up as full suits? I can't imagine the fabric working as trousers, as it's so loose/open?

It's difficult to compare as the texture is so different, but when I hold my mock leno sc up to the plain fresco lite swatches, it looks like the dark navy is in between the two (so 510244, in terms of shade looks mid way between 510219 and 510220).

I've not tried Minnis mockleno as pants but I'd say it is not a loosely woven cloth. It doesn't lose shape or bag. Open weave, yes, and it might snag easily when worn as pants.

 

[camez_]

Looks great! I’ve been eyeing options from that book for a new SC. How does the fabic feel/how hefty is it?

it's on the lighter side of tweeds, to be honest. smooth hand. it will make a great SC for early spring/late autumn