Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Zerase]

Really nice!

Taking your overcoat... for a stroll, or you just bought it?


Cheers,

Dimitris

Took it for a stroll at the local thrift store a few months ago.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Took it for a stroll at the local thrift store a few months ago.

Vad trevligt!

 

[mack11211]

For large pattern format coatings, I like the Marling & Evans Natural collection. The coatings are 720g but especially warm due to their thickness. This is one I made in a check. There are herringbones as well. You can contact them via their IG: https://www.instagram.com/marlingandevans/?hl=en

 

[mactire]

When are you making this for us? View attachment 1884117

Didn't expect to see one of mine up here! Extra wide HB or houndstooth would be nice too.

 

[lordsuperb]

Didn't expect to see one of mine up here! Extra wide HB or houndstooth would be nice too.

Ummm can we get a fabric code for the cloth?

 

[mactire]

Ummm can we get a fabric code for the cloth?

It's not stock supported so you'd have to get it made.

 

[te0o]

Okay so this is a question that's already most likely beaten to death in this thread but here I go.

I am planning to commission a business suit, something quite sombre and conservative, to be made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury.

I am looking for top-quality dark navy cloth recommendations, something hard-wearing, to be worn in the autumn/winter/spring here in the UK. I was thinking c.13oz is a good all-around weight for this purpose.

I've done some digging in the thread and I've identified a few potential candidates:

- Lesser's No.303 13oz
- Smith's Botany 12/13 oz
- Harrison's Oyster 13oz
- Minnis Classic II / Crown Classic

I haven't seen samples in person yet so I don't have any real impressions of either but instinctively I've been leaning towards the Lesser's 13oz.

I'd be really grateful for some first-hand impressions and, of course, any other advice - have I missed something else that's worthwhile?

Some great options there. Not sure if Lesser is still as good as it was. Somehow, in the last ten years whenever I have wanted a mid-weight conservative business suit I have ended up with Botany. And they have all been great

So I went with Harrison's Oyster 77136. It ultimately came down to colour.

I really loved the handle and matte finish on the Lesser but the shade of navy was a bit too dark. Conversely, I really enjoyed the fine finish of the Botany but this was a shade too light for my liking.

The Oyster has a slightly more pronounced twill and a little bit more lustre but colour-wise it was the closest to what I was imagining.

Lighting is inconsistent between the shots.

Not sure if I made the right call, but I guess one can't really go wrong with either option here.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Has anyone had anything made up in the dupioni in the Black Tie book from H&S who can share feedback on how it tailored/wears?

Working through options for a DB shawl dinner jacket.

LP has an option in Mare as well but it looks less slubby/interesting.

There’s also a fairly slubby WSL in the Caccioppoli suit bunch for this summer that they just released in ivory as well that’s sort of in between the two.

Dupioni is the leader in the clubhouse but a little skeptical of the weight.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I'm wondering if you guys can help me out with Fox hopsacks, as I'm about to commission a dark navy blazer and have easy access to Fox. Working off the Merchant Fox website, it seems like Fox has three different weights/qualities of hopsack:

1. 450/480g vintage Connoiseur's hopsack which is available online only in Midnight;
2. 400/430g Worsted Classics hopsack which is available in Dark Navy;
3. 320/350g Fox Sport hopsack which is available online in Midnight (FS26) and Bright Navy (FS28), though I've seen the book and I know Dark Navy exists as well. (FS27)

I want something year-round except dead of summer and I'm thinking Fox Sport is going to be too light at 320/350, so that leaves the 450/480 or 400/430 options. I'm inclined toward the heavier 450/480 option but am concerned midnight is going to be too dark for my tastes. I think this Dalcuore is the 450g midnight and that is very dark:

So: does anyone know if there's a more traditional dark navy option available at 450/480g? Alternatively, does anyone have experience with the worsted classics option at 400/430g? Any comparisons between the two?

 

[reidd]

I'm wondering if you guys can help me out with Fox hopsacks, as I'm about to commission a dark navy blazer and have easy access to Fox. Working off the Merchant Fox website, it seems like Fox has three different weights/qualities of hopsack:

1. 450/480g vintage Connoiseur's hopsack which is available online only in Midnight;
2. 400/430g Worsted Classics hopsack which is available in Dark Navy;
3. 320/350g Fox Sport hopsack which is available online in Midnight (FS26) and Bright Navy (FS28), though I've seen the book and I know Dark Navy exists as well. (FS27)

I want something year-round except dead of summer and I'm thinking Fox Sport is going to be too light at 320/350, so that leaves the 450/480 or 400/430 options. I'm inclined toward the heavier 450/480 option but am concerned midnight is going to be too dark for my tastes. I think this Dalcuore is the 450g midnight and that is very dark:

So: does anyone know if there's a more traditional dark navy option available at 450/480g? Alternatively, does anyone have experience with the worsted classics option at 400/430g? Any comparisons between the two?

I don't think you can go wrong with the midnight especially if you are doing brass buttons.

 

[Master Shake]

Has anyone had anything made up in the dupioni in the Black Tie book from H&S who can share feedback on how it tailored/wears? View attachment 1895455
Working through options for a DB shawl dinner jacket.

LP has an option in Mare as well but it looks less slubby/interesting. View attachment 1895457

There’s also a fairly slubby WSL in the Caccioppoli suit bunch for this summer that they just released in ivory as well that’s sort of in between the two.

Dupioni is the leader in the clubhouse but a little skeptical of the weight.

I don't have any personal experience with the H&S fabric, but I think your skepticism is justified. 125 gm/4 oz seems awfully light. The Scabal version is more than double the weight.

 

[classicalthunde]

There’s also a fairly slubby WSL in the Caccioppoli suit bunch for this summer that they just released in ivory as well that’s sort of in between the two.

Is there any place online to view new Caccioppoli stuff? Their website has the Fall/Winter 22/23 as the most recent bunches...

 

[classicalthunde]

I'm wondering if you guys can help me out with Fox hopsacks, as I'm about to commission a dark navy blazer and have easy access to Fox. Working off the Merchant Fox website, it seems like Fox has three different weights/qualities of hopsack:

1. 450/480g vintage Connoiseur's hopsack which is available online only in Midnight;
2. 400/430g Worsted Classics hopsack which is available in Dark Navy;
3. 320/350g Fox Sport hopsack which is available online in Midnight (FS26) and Bright Navy (FS28), though I've seen the book and I know Dark Navy exists as well. (FS27)

I want something year-round except dead of summer and I'm thinking Fox Sport is going to be too light at 320/350, so that leaves the 450/480 or 400/430 options. I'm inclined toward the heavier 450/480 option but am concerned midnight is going to be too dark for my tastes. I think this Dalcuore is the 450g midnight and that is very dark:

So: does anyone know if there's a more traditional dark navy option available at 450/480g? Alternatively, does anyone have experience with the worsted classics option at 400/430g? Any comparisons between the two?

I have a swatch of the heritage hopsack (maybe its been renamed 'connoisseur' in the past couple of years) and it is quite dark.

I know its not Fox, but I recently purchased a length of Taylor and Lodge Archive Blazer hopsack in dark navy at 420g/m. It has a nice dark color without coming off as black like a midnight tuxedo fabric. Also, its roughly half the price of Fox when ordering from the Merchant Fox website.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Is there any place online to view new Caccioppoli stuff? Their website has the Fall/Winter 22/23 as the most recent bunches...

Not yet. I think they are getting it digitized. Bunches have been shipped to tailors though a few weeks ago.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I have a swatch of the heritage hopsack (maybe its been renamed 'connoisseur' in the past couple of years) and it is quite dark.

I know its not Fox, but I recently purchased a length of Taylor and Lodge Archive Blazer hopsack in dark navy at 420g/m. It has a nice dark color without coming off as black like a midnight tuxedo fabric. Also, its roughly half the price of Fox when ordering from the Merchant Fox website.

Thanks! I agree Fox is pricey but it's easily available through my tailor for much cheaper, so that's why I landed on that as opposed to the Taylor & Lodge. I'm certainly open to to the T&L.

Any chance you could post a photo of the Fox heritage hopsack against the Taylor & Lodge dark navy? I have a feeling that midnight Fox is just going to be too damn dark for me.