Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Sreezy36]

Another liability arrived yesterday evening

14/15 oz vintage marling & evans slate blue (faded) glen check

 

[hpreston]

Another liability arrived yesterday evening

14/15 oz vintage marling & evans slate blue (faded) glen check
View attachment 1793402

Nice! What are thinking? Suit? sportcoat?

 

[jonathanS]

@jonathanS Was that a Steven commission?

no

 

[Sreezy36]

Nice! What are thinking? Suit? sportcoat?

Neapolitan style 3-2 roll or 2 button patch pocket jacket with a set of matching trousers. 70% sport jacket 30% suit.

 

[jonathanS]

tbh, I prefer not to use Steven for a classic Scholte drape coat. I would rather use Steed or Tom Mahon.

That was my reasoning above for why I would choose Mahon over Steed & Hitchcock (from photos). But, no hands on experience with drape. Also, wouldn't do A&S either.

 

[JHWilliams]

That was my reasoning above for why I would choose Mahon over Steed & Hitchcock (from photos). But, no hands on experience with drape. Also, wouldn't do A&S either.

i think Mahon’s shoulders are Lord awful.

 

[Sreezy36]

i think Mahon’s shoulders are Lord awful.

I didn’t notice the shoulders until you mentioned it 😂😂😂😂

The shoulders on his coats seem to be cut too close to the actual shoulder. Combined with the heavy chest drape it seems to throw off the symmetry of coat.

 

[JHWilliams]

I didn’t notice the shoulders until you mentioned it 😂😂😂😂

The shoulders on his coats seem to be cut too close to the actual shoulder. Combined with the heavy chest drape it seems to throw off the symmetry of coat.

Correct. Mahon is the last of the last I would consider for the money.

 

[undertheskin]

I didn’t notice the shoulders until you mentioned it 😂😂😂😂

The shoulders on his coats seem to be cut too close to the actual shoulder. Combined with the heavy chest drape it seems to throw off the symmetry of coat.

do you mind to show some of his work where you think he cuts a narrow shoulder? i couldn't find any..
also chest drape seems to be less apparent than on steed?
i am genuinely curious ..

 

[Concordia]

Having tried all four of these shops, I think you need to be careful about generalizations from photos.

If there is one worth hanging onto, it is that many cutters do best making for someone of their own build. After all, a jacket is an excercise in flattery and evasion of defects. They will be most empathetic to people with familiar challenges. Still, you have to try it out and see.

 

[Sreezy36]

do you mind to show some of his work where you think he cuts a narrow shoulder? i couldn't find any..
also chest drape seems to be less apparent than on steed?
i am genuinely curious ..

from the pictures and videos of Tom’s work, what is see specifically from the examples is that he cut the shoulders proportionally narrow in reference to the chest. More of an extended shoulder can easily cure that. This has an effect of making the chest are more prominent. If I were to have a coat made by him I would ask for slightly more shoulder extension.

Here are some examples although there aren’t a lot of pictures on ig.

However, I do agree with @Concordia and it’s not fair of me to make such generalizations about a tailor’s work. Given the circumstances of a client’s particular build and demands.

 

[undertheskin]

from the pictures and videos of Tom’s work, what is see specifically from the examples is that he cut the shoulders proportionally narrow in reference to the chest. More of an extended shoulder can easily cure that. This has an effect of making the chest are more prominent. If I were to have a coat made by him I would ask for slightly more shoulder extension.

Here are some examples although there aren’t a lot of pictures on ig. View attachment 1793577 However, I do agree with @Concordia and it’s not fair of me to make such generalizations about a tailor’s work. Given the circumstances of a client’s particular build and demands.

i can see a quite narrow shoulder on pic#4
but not on the others and also not on his IG vids.

furthermore what works for one may not work for an another + we don't know specific customer requests.
generalization based on IRL examples is questionable already and basically impossible from pictures...

 

[Sreezy36]

furthermore what works for one may not work for an another + we don't know specific customer requests.
generalization based on IRL examples is questionable already and basically impossible from pictures...

i agree, as mentioned before it was not fair of me to make generalizations based on a few examples.

 

[JHWilliams]

from the pictures and videos of Tom’s work, what is see specifically from the examples is that he cut the shoulders proportionally narrow in reference to the chest. More of an extended shoulder can easily cure that. This has an effect of making the chest are more prominent. If I were to have a coat made by him I would ask for slightly more shoulder extension.

Here are some examples although there aren’t a lot of pictures on ig. View attachment 1793574 View attachment 1793575 View attachment 1793576 View attachment 1793577 View attachment 1793578 View attachment 1793579 However, I do agree with @Concordia and it’s not fair of me to make such generalizations about a tailor’s work. Given the circumstances of a client’s particular build and demands.

These photographs all speak to my point. I’m sure he is fine gentleman and tailor, I just think the shoulders are not flattering on any of his jackets

 

[hpreston]

Neapolitan style 3-2 roll or 2 button patch pocket jacket with a set of matching trousers. 70% sport jacket 30% suit.

I think both (suit and sport coat) will look smashing in the fabric.

I like to get suits in more "casual" fabrics made with patch pockets, so there's that separate sport coat option.