Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[dieworkwear]

What’s the most durable fabric for a suit? Something that will last many years? Are heavier weights tougher than lighter weights?

Very broadly speaking, I think English cloths tend to last longer than Italian ones. But it's hard to generalize and it's always better to ask your tailor, given his or her experience seeing things come back into the shop.

Jeffery has a nice post here about the idea that Super 100s cloths aren't durable, for example. Of all the "rules of thumb" I've seen, "don't buy Super 100s" is perhaps the most common. And even then, it's not always true.

Sartorial Mythbusting

The next suit to be dissected is an old bespoke number; made back in 1992, it has clearly been worn. Hard. There is evidence of the waist h...

tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com

 

[Despos]

Very broadly speaking, I think English cloths tend to last longer than Italian ones. But it's hard to generalize and it's always better to ask your tailor, given his or her experience seeing things come back into the shop.

Jeffery has a nice post here about the idea that Super 100s cloths aren't durable, for example. Of all the "rules of thumb" I've seen, "don't buy Super 100s" is perhaps the most common. And even then, it's not always true.

Sartorial Mythbusting

The next suit to be dissected is an old bespoke number; made back in 1992, it has clearly been worn. Hard. There is evidence of the waist h...

tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com

That was my own personal suit worn for around 20 years

 

[Despos]

I have some pents made of Drapers flannel and they've held up well. Definitely a little softer and thinner than the Minnis ones.

Thats why I like it. Not as stiff or heavy as the others.

 

[ThinkDerm]

@reidd

Thank you Reidd. However there is more to flannel than simple grays I thought to pick a simple mid-gray from the same Harrison Book but gambled on a blue/gray (steel blue or ice blue) flannel cloth in the same book. I think it turned out OK.

Alan Bee
View attachment 1327044

great color!

 

[reidd]

That was my own personal suit worn for around 20 years

Amazing how well that cloth has held up. I would ask which mill or merchant it was from but perhaps given the time passed, it may not be relevant. Simply put though, do they still make cloth with this kind of durability? And if so, who makes it?

 

[Despos]

Amazing how well that cloth has held up. I would ask which mill or merchant it was from but perhaps given the time passed, it may not be relevant. Simply put though, do they still make cloth with this kind of durability? And if so, who makes it?

All I remember is the cloth came from from Gladson but not sure of the mill. Remember buying to sample a new cloth they would carry. 150's were new without any history at the time. That has been my method to learn about a cloth. Make up a cloth for myself so I would know first hand how it tailors and wears. If I like it, I recommend to clients.

Jeffery also dissected the suit as he has done with others. You can read his review of the tailoring on his site.

 

[Winchester_M]

Any idea where to get S150 E Thomas fabrics?

Looking for those:

52901-1
57712-1
52601-2
52601-4

 

[WillingToLearn]

@Despos

Is there any particular advantage to having the selvedge of the cloth (the part with the labeling or branding) running down the lapel seam? It looked cool in basted fitting photos, but the edge has different characteristics than than the cloth. One of my concerns might be how it holds a stitch, how it does if you want a swelled edge, etc

 

[classicalthunde]

Gents...question about the right shade of navy for a spring-summer blazer.

As to source, my initial inclination is to go with Finmeresco based on earlier discussion. The question now is to find the right color/tone, something suitably "formal", but a touch lighter, brighter than somber navy for suiting or a navy coat for winter.

I would be happy for suggestions on cloth that you have used that looks suitably alive and "bright" without losing the association with navy.

saw this finmeresco 4-ply the other day that I’m eyeing up for a Neapolitan-style blazer. It’s one shade lighter/blue-er than a traditional navy

 

[TweedyProf]

saw this finmeresco 4-ply the other day that I’m eyeing up for a Neapolitan-style blazer. It’s one shade lighter/blue-er than a traditional navy

Thanks! Should be airy, but how does 13oz finmeresco wear in the summer?

 

[Despos]

@Despos

Is there any particular advantage to having the selvedge of the cloth (the part with the labeling or branding) running down the lapel seam? It looked cool in basted fitting photos, but the edge has different characteristics than than the cloth. One of my concerns might be how it holds a stitch, how it does if you want a swelled edge, etc

No advantage, maybe a disadvantage. The selvedge acts as a binder to stabilize the cloth and prevent stretching. It doesn't stretch or shrink or share the same characteristics as the cloth. It would probably cause the edges to pucker if it was sewn into the lapels. Edge tape is a better choice if you want a swelled edge.

 

[Despos]

Thanks! Should be airy, but how does 13oz finmeresco wear in the summer?

There is no way to universally answer this. Have clients who think 9 ounce cloth is a winter weight or others that are fine wearing 12 ounce cloth is summer. If you have experience with various cloth weights you know what you can tolerate. If you want a year round cloth you have to compromise. If the cloth is comfortable in cooler weather it is not going to feel as nice as a lighter weight would in the heat/humidity of summer. If the cloth works in summer it will run cool in winter months. Not one cloth works for both extremes of heat to cold.
The 13 ounce finmeresco will wear heavier than the 9 ounce. If it will be comfortable in summer temps is very much up to the individual. I advise clients after the basics are in your wardrobe to get a piece or two specific to summer temps and the same for winter.
Not sure if this addresses/answers your question.

 

[classicalthunde]

Thanks! Should be airy, but how does 13oz finmeresco wear in the summer?

i don’t have anything made from that fabric yet, but I do have a pair of pants in VBC 13oz 4-ply. It has some heft and drapes nicely, but the open weave allows the breeze to flow through, and if you hold it up to the light you can almost see through it. I haven’t had them long enough to wear in the spring/summer, but there has certainly been some cold/windy days where the pants showcased how the breeze can keep them cool despite the weight.

that being said I’d echo Despo’s sentiments above, it’s going to be a factor of how hot you run, what the climate is, how much you like/dislike hefty fabric

 

[patrickBOOTH]

So far my Lesser 16 seems to be the winner. It is very comparable to like weaves in P&B Universal, which are also heavy clothes. Like Despos suit I have had linings **** the bed and had them redone.

I haven't used finmeresco, but I have a lot of suits in 8/9oz Minnis. I have had one in 10oz Minnis as well. In my opinion there is a big difference in coolness of the 8/9oz to the 10oz once the humidity kicks up. I'm wearing full suits less in the summers than I used to (non-work days) so I am buying brands more based on the shade of the particular summer cloth rather than the availability of certain weights across brands. Wearing anything in the summer just plain sucks.

 

[Concordia]

Thanks! Should be airy, but how does 13oz finmeresco wear in the summer?

Not bad, but better if there is a breeze and you can recharge in cool rooms once in a while.