Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Simon A]

Fair, but I think some people have basically inferred that that declining quality in the cloth overall is due to root issues with woollen yarn available at the start of the process and not necessarily the manufacturing of the cloth itself.

It won't be due to a "problem" with the yarn, it is an issue of consumers demanding something from this artisanal supply chain that it was never meant to deliver. It's from the same sheep, raised much the same way as 60-70 years ago, the wool is processed into top pretty much the same way as ever. If the market wants 350-400g handloomed tweeds made from single ply thread now, when 2 generations ago they wanted 650-1000 g tweed made from twin-ply thread, then the spinning mill will respond to what the weavers ask for. The downside, less durability and less ability to resist bagging/losing shape when woven. I have asked weavers in Harris and Lewis if they could make short runs of 900-1000 g overcoating, and they responded that they can make it with heavier thread imported from the Mainland, but it can't be branded "Harris Tweed".

 

[lordsuperb]

 

[LJ1891]

Can you guys point me in the direction of W-S-L bunches for jacketing?

 

[circumspice]

Can you guys point me in the direction of W-S-L bunches for jacketing?

Montrose Bay – Pepper Lee

Kynoch’s Montrose Bay jacketing collection takes the finest wools and delicately blends with silk and linen to give a lively cloth with body, making it a joy to wear. Vibrant colours from a palette of raspberry crush, oceanic blues and muted creams are presented in an abundant collection of...

pepperlee.co.uk

With Draper's and Anglo-Italian, I think you can play with the filters.

https://textile.loropiana.com/digital_bunch/cruise/?lang=en

I don't think Loro Piana takes a strict constructionist approach to bunches - this has some silk/cashmere, and some W/S/L in it, for instance

 

[LJ1891]

Montrose Bay – Pepper Lee

Kynoch’s Montrose Bay jacketing collection takes the finest wools and delicately blends with silk and linen to give a lively cloth with body, making it a joy to wear. Vibrant colours from a palette of raspberry crush, oceanic blues and muted creams are presented in an abundant collection of...

pepperlee.co.uk

With Draper's and Anglo-Italian, I think you can play with the filters.

https://textile.loropiana.com/digital_bunch/cruise/?lang=en

I don't think Loro Piana takes a strict constructionist approach to bunches - this has some silk/cashmere, and some W/S/L in it, for instance

awesome thank you

 

[Concordia]

Moleskin? There are a lot of those out there.

 

[Concordia]

Nice. Current product?

 

[lordsuperb]

Nice. Current product?

https://textile.loropiana.com/digital_bunch/cashmere/?lang=en

 

[hitsuji]

Anyone aware of any sites that show the marling & evans books?

 

[CorozoButton]

Does anyone have ideas or recommendations for a cream lightweight high-twist for trousers. I already have a pair in the Fresco 510222, which is a great pale stone, and fills the gap quite well, but I'm definitely after a true cream/antique ivory - the sort of shades that you often find in linen bunches, eg:

 

[Concordia]

There are some Fox examples, but perhaps not high twist. Still, barathea works remarkably well for white trousers.

 

[emptym]

Does anyone have ideas or recommendations for a cream lightweight high-twist for trousers. I already have a pair in the Fresco 510222, which is a great pale stone, and fills the gap quite well, but I'm definitely after a true cream/antique ivory - the sort of shades that you often find in linen bunches, eg:

Good question! Some of us (like @Mr. Six, iirc), have long been looking for a natural or oatmeal linen-like fresco or tropical wool -- ideally with some subtle heathering or mottling, just like a natural linen would have.

I'd actually prefer a washable wool/poly one for tropical travel. Luxire has some, and Yeossal carried fabric a 60% wool, 40% poly blend, made by a Spanish company, Lanitex.

@Betelgeuse tipped me off to this Dino Filtrate great fabric, which is very close and can be ordered as pants:

Stone Wool And Linen Stretch Bedford Suit

An easy and refined suit for warmer days. This stunning suit is crafted from a luxurious blend of wool, linen, and premium elastane from Dino Filarte. It has a wonderfully smooth f

propercloth.com

I wonder it's possible to order the fabric somewhere.

Glad to hear that 510222 is a good stone color. Do you happen to have pics of the pants made up?

@Concordia, is this the Fox you meant:

WT35 : Worsted Classics Ecru Barathea

Introducing worsted classics for classic occasions. With the cutters’ favourite ‘London Shrunk’ finish; it’s the wardrobe staple woven for business, travel, and leisure including evening and wedding wear. This bunch contains twills, hopsacks and baratheas, along with several shades of plain...

foxflannel.com

 

[Concordia]

I would look at that. My own pair is a
few decades old, so can’t help too specifically.

 

[Mr. Six]

Good question! Some of us (like @Mr. Six, iirc), have long been looking for a natural or oatmeal linen-like fresco or tropical wool -- ideally with some subtle heathering or mottling, just like a natural linen would have.

I'd actually prefer a 50% wool, 50% poly one for tropical travel. The Anthology carried fabric like that, made by a Spanish company iirc.

@Betelgeuse tipped me off to this Dino Filtrate great fabric, which is very close and can be ordered as pants:

Stone Wool And Linen Stretch Bedford Suit

An easy and refined suit for warmer days. This stunning suit is crafted from a luxurious blend of wool, linen, and premium elastane from Dino Filarte. It has a wonderfully smooth f

propercloth.com

I wonder it's possible to order the fabric somewhere.

Glad to hear that 510222 is a good stone color. Do you happen to have pics of the pants made up?

@Concordia, is this the Fox you meant:

WT35 : Worsted Classics Ecru Barathea

Introducing worsted classics for classic occasions. With the cutters’ favourite ‘London Shrunk’ finish; it’s the wardrobe staple woven for business, travel, and leisure including evening and wedding wear. This bunch contains twills, hopsacks and baratheas, along with several shades of plain...

foxflannel.com

YES! My fabric acquisitions/bespoke adventures are on pause for a bit, but this remains one of my off-white whales that I hope to resume hunting soon.

 

[Rowqk777]

Hi, could anyone suggest a few bunches to look into for cloth - wool or wool cashmere or cashmere, in a chocolate brown glen check with a blue stripe! - yes loro piana do it, are there any others that do it too? Many thanks!