Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jonathanS]

London lounge selling fabrics for $60 a half meter?

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I’m not sure, it’s been a while. I think my last order was when they were 140£/meter. That’s $134. I remember when it was 120£/meter.

But I think it’s 160£ / meter these days.

At any rate, I think fabric should be closer to $50-70 / meter (there has to be a benefit to me). Otherwise, I’ll just let my tailor deal with it.

 

[classicalthunde]

I’m not sure, it’s been a while. I think my last order was when they were 140£/meter. That’s $134. I remember when it was 120£/meter.

But I think it’s 160£ / meter these days.

At any rate, I think fabric should be closer to $50-70 / meter (there has to be a benefit to me). Otherwise, I’ll just let my tailor deal with it.

Most of the well-known brand name D2C fabric sales I've seen have been in the $100-150 or higher range (looking at you Fox Bros). Anything under $100 I like I consider a "deal".

That being said, a) I think its a bit price gimmicky to list at half-meter pricing on the site, and b) Anglo-Italian is a ways off from being able to command the same pricing as Harrisons/Dugdale/Loro Piana/VBC with regards to its pricing, especially since its nothing revelatory or exciting...

 

[classicalthunde]

But I think it’s 160£ / meter these days.

woof, that's pretty pricey for tweeds...at that price you're even with Fox Bros ex-vat pricing

 

[jeremygo]

I wish they'd lean a little more into the Italian part of Anglo-Italian with the fabrics. The selection feels quite drab/cold to me. (Some of their summer mixes are a bit better though).

 

[jonathanS]

Most of the well-known brand name D2C fabric sales I've seen have been in the $100-150 or higher range (looking at you Fox Bros). Anything under $100 I like I consider a "deal".

That being said, a) I think its a bit price gimmicky to list at half-meter pricing on the site, and b) Anglo-Italian is a ways off from being able to command the same pricing as Harrisons/Dugdale/Loro Piana/VBC with regards to its pricing, especially since its nothing revelatory or exciting...

Yes, I’d take the London lounge offerings over the Anglo Italian, but it depends what you’re looking for. LL thrives in the fall / winter.

Anglo Italian - I don’t like their colors. Maybe my tastes are too Italian, but I’m not a fan of the colors. Too brown. I know brown is very #menswear, but it’s, generally, not for me. Especially for business suits.

Give me the blues! Haha. I’m looking for a blue patterned jacket fabric I like.

woof, that's pretty pricey for tweeds...at that price you're even with Fox Bros ex-vat pricing

It’s good fabric. Both of them are good - I’m not sure which I’d prefer. I’d be happy with both tbh. I like Fox a lot. And both are really expensive these days. Heritage flannel is 215£ / meter.

 

[CrimsonWave]

Would anyone have recommendations on where to look for this or something similar? View attachment 2134067

Not the same, but reminds of something from Lanificio Di Pray that I saw in a Japanese wholesaler's catalogue during Lecteur's trunk show.

 

[camez_]

View attachment 2137627
Not the same, but reminds of something from Lanificio Di Pray that I saw in a Japanese wholesaler's catalogue during Lecteur's trunk show.

unfortunately they don't sell directly cut lengths, they start at 50m

maybe the way via japanese/asian distributors would work

 

[Concordia]

Maison Hellard?

I like the Anglo Italian for silk and linen. At least, the appearance. No idea about quality.

 

[tim_horton]

Anglo Italian - I don’t like their colors. Maybe my tastes are too Italian, but I’m not a fan of the colors. Too brown. I know brown is very #menswear, but it’s, generally, not for me. Especially for business suits.

Give me the blues! Haha. I’m looking for a blue patterned jacket fabric I like.

I wish they'd lean a little more into the Italian part of Anglo-Italian with the fabrics. The selection feels quite drab/cold to me. (Some of their summer mixes are a bit better though).

I agree. I don't like the second round of Tessuti nearly as much as the first.

 

[jeremygo]

Would anyone have recommendations on where to look for this or something similar? View attachment 2134067

This is similar in terms of color but not sure about pattern scale:

FJ1 : Char-Navy Layered Windowpane Check

This check features a plain weave char-navy blue base. The tonal deco in brown and ecru gives a subtle depth to the design. Fox Journey a wonderful two-ply worsted cloth, woven using an up-twisted fine wool. Inspired by The Grand Tour, it is a perfect travel companion. The open weave structure...

foxflannel.com

 

[ericgereghty]

Speaking of Anglo-Italian, has anybody been bold enough to make up their silk/linen (I think 52/48 composition) fabric into a suit?

 

[garigo]

Where should I look for shirting in an interesting stripe with a vintage feel? White base, cotton or linen or cotton/linen.

 

[circumspice]

Speaking of Anglo-Italian, has anybody been bold enough to make up their silk/linen (I think 52/48 composition) fabric into a suit?

It looks like only 7/21 are from the original collection - those have a photo of the swatch card, and they seem to indicate jacketing versus suiting on said cards. But no such photo, nor anything in the text on the 14 new Se/Li blends to indicate suitability - some patterns I view as suiting-capable, and a couple to me only look like a suiting:

AIT-091

This Spring/Summer cloth blends linen and silk to give durability, texture and depth whilst retaining an entirely matte finish. Ideal for wearing from Spring through to the start of Autumn. Presented here in a cold beige tick weave with a subtle royal blue overcheck.Please note typically...

angloitalian.com

 

[ericgereghty]

It looks like only 7/21 are from the original collection - those have a photo of the swatch card, and they seem to indicate jacketing versus suiting on said cards. But no such photo, nor anything in the text on the 14 new Se/Li blends to indicate suitability - some patterns I view as suiting-capable, and a couple to me only look like a suiting:

AIT-091

This Spring/Summer cloth blends linen and silk to give durability, texture and depth whilst retaining an entirely matte finish. Ideal for wearing from Spring through to the start of Autumn. Presented here in a cold beige tick weave with a subtle royal blue overcheck.Please note typically...

angloitalian.com

This is my thought. Leaving functionality aside, a good deal of them look lovely, but designs I associated far more with suiting, particularly given the somber palette, on the whole

 

[William Kazak]

Yes, perhaps the 270gram is better, but then it’s an issue of trousers not draping well. For now, I’ve given up on linen, but I suppose I’ll eventually give it another go.

It’d be perfect if we could get a 270gram jacket & 370gram trouser & a weaver that’d perfectly match the jacket and trouser fabrics so no one would notice they’re actually different fabrics. That’d be great.

Embrace monochromatic. Does not have to be an exact match.