Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[patrickBOOTH]

Why does one need a fabric with a membrane? Good wool as no issues in storms.

 

[Concordia]

Sheep have low standards.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Coating question: looking for Loro Piana Storm System (i.e. wool with membrane) for a bespoke coat.

1. Where can I source this class of fabric for a one-off?
2. All ideas & suggestions on alternatives to LP are welcome.

Thanks

Dear @exoterm,

I imagine that you do know that LP Storm System fabric is mainly used for raincoats and in some instances for light rain-resistant overcoats. I have also heard of a gentleman who had made two sport coats which were used while he was riding in his motorcycle during Fall.

On the same note, do take a look at your private messages.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[bdavro23]

I had a car coat several years ago that was made out of LP Storm System. It was nice enough and had a good hand to it. I liked that it was water proof-ish, but cant say I was too fussed about giving it away.

The issue for me was that while it was good enough at a number of things, it wasnt great at anything. I suppose some of that could be addressed in a MTM or bespoke situation, but I would probably pick something else ahead of it. And I say that as someone who sells it.

 

[exoterm]

I had a car coat several years ago that was made out of LP Storm System. It was nice enough and had a good hand to it. I liked that it was water proof-ish, but cant say I was too fussed about giving it away.

The issue for me was that while it was good enough at a number of things, it wasnt great at anything. I suppose some of that could be addressed in a MTM or bespoke situation, but I would probably pick something else ahead of it. And I say that as someone who sells it.

I own a MTM coat in LP storm system already and like the performance, especially in miserable weather (something which is all too common in the part of Norway where I am currently living). So yes, the contemplated bespoke coat will be used in the rain very often.

When you say you would probably pick something else, what would that be?

 

[bdavro23]

I own a MTM coat in LP storm system already and like the performance, especially in miserable weather (something which is all too common in the part of Norway where I am currently living). So yes, the contemplated bespoke coat will be used in the rain very often.

When you say you would probably pick something else, what would that be?

Well, I suppose I would rather have put the money towards items that are more fit for purpose. If I needed a truly inclimate weather piece, I would get a Norwegian Rain coat or something like it. For a top coat, I would do an actual tailored piece in wool (Baby Camelhair for me, actually), which I eventually did when I gave away my Storm System piece. For a rain coat, I would do a classic, belted cotton piece.

I know that's 3 garments, but the LP SS piece doesnt fill those roles very well, either.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Wool can get wet. I don't get it.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear Gentlemen,

Perhaps this is why:

Storm System® | Our Excellences | Loro Piana

us.loropiana.com

Best,

Dimitris

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Eh. I am not sold.

 

[Simon A]

Coating question: looking for Loro Piana Storm System (i.e. wool with membrane) for a bespoke coat.

1. Where can I source this class of fabric for a one-off?
2. All ideas & suggestions on alternatives to LP are welcome.

Thanks

There are lower-cost, more traditional solutions for rain-resistant outerwear made from wool. They are proven to do the job for 20, 30 or 40 years of heavy wear, unlike the LP system.

1. Loden. "Rain Loden" has a long nap directed towards the bottom of the garment, with excellent runoff, and is very water resistant. If you have a cape or double shoulder on the garment, it should get you through most rainstorms as dry as if wearing a raincoat. No high-tech synthetic membranes, just clever fabric finishing.

2. Teflon coating on tweed + Ventile interlining. Lovat Mill make stock tweeds with Teflon treatment, and Ventile is a cotton fabric with great water and wind resistance. I have a 25-year old hunting coat made in this configuration and despite heavy downpours, have never got wet. You can retreat the tweed every 10 years or so if needed.

 

[dieworkwear]

I don't have any experience with LP Storm System, but the point of membrane-backed fabrics is that you can get a more breathable fabric that's still waterproof. You can't do that as easily with just a heavy wool. I imagine that could be useful in places where you get warm summer showers. Or for people who are active.

An example:

 

[exoterm]

I don't have any experience with LP Storm System, but the point of membrane-backed fabrics is that you can get a more breathable fabric that's still waterproof. You can't do that as easily with just a heavy wool. I imagine that could be useful in places where you get warm summer showers. Or for people who are active.

An example:

Thanks for the input. You are exactly right when it comes to my intended use. Waterproof, breathable, light weight, traditional menswear wool for the right look and feel.

Now back to the original question: how to source it for a one-off? LP themselves have a minimum order for storm system of 100m, so my tailor cannot get it directly from them.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks for the input. You are exactly right when it comes to my intended use. Waterproof, breathable, light weight, traditional menswear wool for the right look and feel.

Now back to the original question: how to source it for a one-off? LP themselves have a minimum order for storm system of 100m, so my tailor cannot get it directly from them.

I don't know of any sources, unfortunately. There are other membrane technologies, such as Gore-Tex and eVent, the second of which is pictured above, but I've only seen them in ready to wear.

Maybe something to consider: the membrane allows perspiration to escape and not allow water to seep in, but it's only as effective as the outermost shell. Meaning, if the outermost shell is, say, rubber, then your coat won't be very breathable at all. I imagine, if you get the LP Storm System one, maybe LP has figured this out with a breathable wool. But it's something to consider when choosing between different membrane-backed fabrics.

 

[exoterm]

Well, I suppose I would rather have put the money towards items that are more fit for purpose. If I needed a truly inclimate weather piece, I would get a Norwegian Rain coat or something like it. For a top coat, I would do an actual tailored piece in wool (Baby Camelhair for me, actually), which I eventually did when I gave away my Storm System piece. For a rain coat, I would do a classic, belted cotton piece.

I know that's 3 garments, but the LP SS piece doesnt fill those roles very well, either.

Thanks for the feedback. Norwegian rain does not do MTM which I need as a minimum due to my height. I have a traditional style LP SS coat, so the one I am designing now will be more specific for bad weather, as the traditional one is too open in the chest area. Regarding cotton, I have a (possibly silly) aversion against it, but you do have a point. I am not entirely sure it would meet the breathable requirements though. And it would be cotton. =)

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @exoterm,

It's easy: you are going to get your length, and the rest of the 100m roll will be bought by our fellow @patrickBOOTH; problem solved!

Best,

Dimitris