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Trouser break and cuffs for shorter man?

clee1982

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I’m 5’7” I don’t do 2in cuff, probably 1.5 in
 

romafan

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I believe :foo2: says 2
 

josepidal

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This looks incredible! What are the details of the pants, including the cloth, and how did you decide on the length and size of cuff?
 

La Patrie

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I no longer wear pleats however some pants I cuff. Personally my stature has nothing to do with my choices.I prefer a slight break on dress pants and chinos. Cuffs and good sized break on winter cords etc. During winter I prefer Bulk. Summer a streamlined look. I am of average height& and keep weight down so This allows me multiple choices.
 

Anachronist

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In general, if you’re not that tall, you’ll find that most tailors will recommend reducing horizontal lines especially in suits, that additional ticket pockets and the like and will recommend anything that emphasizes vertical lines, i.e. trouser pleats, stripes, narrow lapels, hacking pockets on the suit jacket, notch lapels rather than peak lapels, etc. Personally, I agree with the aforementioned statements that a trouser cuff is perfectly acceptable irrespective of height, although you may find that cuff-less trousers will visually stretch you just a bit more.
 

Shawnc

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I'm 6'2" so I've never given much thought to my height when dressing. I also never understand fashion rules. I wear what looks good to me because that makes me feel better. If someone else thinks its a fashion fo-pah, oh well. I love pleats and cuffs and always stay between 1.5 and 2 inches. That's my sweat spot. I never knew you weren't supposed to have cuffs with flat front pants and had some added by my seamstress a couple months ago. Don't like it so I won't do it again. I also like a mild break in my slacks and that's the case with both cuffed and uncuffed pants.

This is a really interesting discussion and I have thoroughly enjoyed reading some of the more in-depth responses.
 

CMJ

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Much has been written about cuffs and break, but IMO there really are few (or perhaps just one) hard and fast rule(s). The only strong rule that I am aware of is that cuffs never go with black/white tie attire. Everything else is more or less up to you.

Personally, I think one's height has relatively little to do with cuff height. I like 1.75" cuffs but others like 2" and some like 1.5". Anything in that range won't look out of the ordinary IMO, and is a matter of taste. The usual advice is that lighter fabrics benefit more from cuffs than heavier fabrics since they provide a little more weight to keep the trouser leg straight. I don't vary my cuff height based on the trouser fabric.

The old recommendation was that pleats should be worn with cuffs and flat front trousers should be worn with a plain hem. I am not sure how much this really matters anymore, or that anyone outside of SF would notice.

As far as break goes, it's also a matter of personal taste, though I think most people nowadays would lean towards either a small amount of break (a "shivering" break) or no break. That being said, if your trouser hem is relatively narrow, having little/no break is more important than if the trouser hem is more generous in size. Excess fabric in a narrow trouser leg looks more messy than in a wider leg IMO.
Excellent analysis and comments
 

artyom.le.gall

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In general, if you’re not that tall, you’ll find that most tailors will recommend reducing horizontal lines especially in suits, that additional ticket pockets and the like and will recommend anything that emphasizes vertical lines, i.e. trouser pleats, stripes, narrow lapels, hacking pockets on the suit jacket, notch lapels rather than peak lapels, etc. Personally, I agree with the aforementioned statements that a trouser cuff is perfectly acceptable irrespective of height, although you may find that cuff-less trousers will visually stretch you just a bit more.
Also seeking @Despos experience and advise! :) Aren't pleats contradictory to emphasizing vertical lines? I mean.. the cress does constitute a vertical line however the whole hip area becomes somehow baboonish...isn't that inferior to say a slim straight cut without pleats? it will be less comfortable pockets wise and/or maybe the pockets becomes unusable which will impact Italian looks with the jacket..but still if the idea is to give a taller figure impression.. what do you think ?
 

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