Dino944
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2011
- Messages
- 7,738
- Reaction score
- 8,756
The latter. The orientation of the screws presumably implies that, like the AP, they are decorative; vintage version ones were not aligned. The IWC uses fewer screws, and their odd number gives a completely different type of symmetry. I see what you mean about Hublot but the relative lack of care with which these are put together immediately sets them off - a bit like the Polo vs the cohesion of the Nautilus or the AP RO. With a simple design it is all in the proportions. Not that the new AE is simple, but it plays with them right, in person anyway. I was never convinced by the photos.
I see what you mean about feminine in the St Moritz but funnily enough as an engineer by training seeing functional screws makes it more "manly" or whatever you want to call it, than the decorative "screws" of the new one. But it works on the latter one as a postmodern touch, which is clearly intentional given the rest. To be honest the new AE reminds me the most of.. the Moser frankenwatch PR stunt
never forget
View attachment 1693656
Just to clarify, I'm not sure one can completely say the bolts in the AP bezel are just decorative as they receive the bolts that screw into the back of the watch. ROs were designed with solid case backs and threading the screws into the hex bolts locked everything down to keep the watch water resistant. In addition, that vintage IWC, doesn't use bolts, those are actually holes and you use a special tool that fits into those holes to open the watch.
Perhaps feminine wasn't the best choice of words with the original St. Mortiz, perhaps the bezel on that seems more delicate than later versions.
The new Chopard AE, has a few nice elements like the bracelet and dial color/texture. They just need something that is more of their own brand elements and values, and looks less cobbled together with influence of other watches.
Most companies have gone that route, and will no longer sell parts to outside watchmakers.I recently received a recommendation of Nesbit's Fine Watch Service to service and repair IWC and JLC watches. Sadly they no longer do. According to a Nesbit's phone representative, neither watchmaker will provide (sell) parts. Sending my 25+ year old Flieger back to IWC.