The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[Ambulance Chaser]

Is this a recent pic? I recall a story many years ago where Putin visited a power plant (or some other industrial place) and one of the workers commented on his watch. Vladimir looked down at his wrist, took off his watch and gave it to the guy. I thought it was a Blancpain Aqualung.

According to this article, Putin has owned at least three Aqualungs. He gave away two and threw one into wet cement.

 

[bdavro23]

Is this a recent pic? I recall a story many years ago where Putin visited a power plant (or some other industrial place) and one of the workers commented on his watch. Vladimir looked down at his wrist, took off his watch and gave it to the guy. I thought it was a Blancpain Aqualung.

Vladimir Putin hands over Swiss watch to astonished factory worker

Questions over Russian prime minister's salary after spontaneous gift of £5,500 watch

www.theguardian.com

 

[Dino944]

On perhaps a related note, I think there is a video of Sarkozy walking along a barrier of sorts, shaking hands with the public. He very slyly removes his watch and puts it in his pocket (so that the watch won’t be taken/seen?).

He was known for wearing some nice watches, Rolex DJ and Daytonas, Patek perpetual, and I think a Breitling.

 

[RJman]

He was known for wearing some nice watches, Rolex DJ and Daytonas, Patek perpetual, and I think a Breitling.

Carla, who comes from a billionaire family, bought him some blingy watches, including a Breguet IIRC.

 

[dan'l]

According to this article, Putin has owned at least three Aqualungs. He gave away two and threw one into wet cement.

Nice article. I liked this part:

...while all the official portraits of Putin that show a wristwatch are of the Blancpain, which is reputedly known as the “Putin Blancpain” in Russia.

Doesn‘t quite roll off the tongue like “Paul Newman Daytona,” though.

 

[dan'l]

Vladimir Putin hands over Swiss watch to astonished factory worker

Questions over Russian prime minister's salary after spontaneous gift of £5,500 watch

www.theguardian.com

Yeah, that‘s it! Didn’t realize it’s been more than a decade! At the time I was quite enamored by big date complications and was interested in all watches which had one, including the Blancpain Aqualung, so the episode stuck with me.

 

[Ambulance Chaser]

I just made an appointment with the DC Hermes boutique to see the new H08 model this coming Saturday morning. Wish me (or more accurately, my credit card) good luck. I fear the watch-buying moratorium may be coming to an end.

 

[Dino944]

I just made an appointment with the DC Hermes boutique to see the new H08 model this coming Saturday morning. Wish me (or more accurately, my credit card) good luck. I fear the watch-buying moratorium may be coming to an end.

If they have it on a bracelet, I'd be curious to know your thoughts about it on the bracelet. Looking forward to reading your impressions after you've tried it on. Wishing you good luck on your adventure!

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I just made an appointment with the DC Hermes boutique to see the new H08 model this coming Saturday morning. Wish me (or more accurately, my credit card) good luck. I fear the watch-buying moratorium may be coming to an end.

I’m looking forward to your review. Can’t believe Hermès is still making people make an appointment. I suppose I can’t blame them.

 

[bdavro23]

I’m looking forward to your review. Can’t believe Hermès is still making people make an appointment. I suppose I can’t blame them.

Well you see there was this green wallet...

 

[TheFoo]

I’ve been learning a lot about case finishing and polishing techniques, which has imparted a new understanding of how special Patek’s case work really is.

For some background, I noticed a defect (possibly a self-inflicted one) in the bezel of my Calatrava. A portion (about a quarter of it) is rounded off at the edge and lower than the rest of the bezel. I believe this likely happened as a result of overzealous hand-polishing on my part when trying to remove a couple of deeper scratches. Otherwise, it could have been the AD’s fault and I just never noticed it. Unlikely it came from Patek that way.

Anyway, of course, now I am obsessed with getting it fixed. The watch is currently with Patek for assessment, but I am 99% certain of the outcome: they will offer to polish down the bezel and whole case to match. I don’t like this approach because it will take away considerable material and re-profile the entire watch. Yet, Patek does not offer more intensive restoration (via laser welding) unless it is a much older piece or the damage is much worse. They do not weld material back onto rounded edges to restore them.

So, assuming I’m right, I need to pursue another path: an independent case restorer.

As you guys know, I used LA Watchworks to work on my Daytona case. Don’t take my word for it, but if you read around you’ll find that nobody in the world does better case refinishing and restoration on Rolexes. In fact, of the dozen or so well-known European and American case restorers I’ve spoken to, that seems to be the consistent consensus.

However LAWW will not help with my Calatrava! They looked at two dozen photos, studied the case construction for a week, and ultimately said they simply lack the expertise to get at the bezel from all angles without risking catastrophic case damage. As it turns out, each case restorer has his own specialized (often self-designed) tools and LAWW’s are specifically geared toward Rolex cases.

Now, LAWW will handle other non-Rolex watches, including a large number of Langes and Royal Oaks, but those all have cases that are all highly modular in construction and have designs that lend themselves to machine finishing. For example, the Royal Oak is time consuming to properly polish because of all the facets, but apparently it is quite easy to do technically: (1) the angles are all straight and (2) the bezel comes off.

The problem with the Calatrava is that the bezel and middle case are actually one piece! That means the side or the bezel (perpendicular to the flat plane of the middle case) cannot be polished with a lapping machine—you’d risk damaging the lugs.

Why on earth does Patek build cases this way? Chiefly because you can make a thinner case if you don’t need to design it for screwing-on a bezel. It is also the more traditional, artisanal way to do it.

As I’ve been learning, the skill involved in the case making is tremendous and requires a lot more hand work than most other makers deploy. It also requires specialized equipment. For example, to get at the side of the bezel, they turn the case on a lathe while someone free floats a knife-like tool with diamond paste over the surface as it spins. They have to do this without hitting the lugs! Then they have to hand-polish each case with wooden sticks and buffing wheels to finish them off. In comparison, typical Lange construction includes a removable bezel and can be polished mostly by machine.

So other than a greater appreciation for Patek, where does that leave me? There are no U.S. firms that can do the restoration work on my case. They all said: only Patek knows how to do this.

Apparently, the best case restorers are in Italy. A number of firms combine highly specialized and expensive machinery with artisanal hand-polishing skills to mimic factory finishing. I’m speaking with three of the best ones. Two have expressed concern that Patek construction is very difficult to work with but are willing to try. One is still assessing.

I’ve also spoken to a watchmaker in Austria who is the eastern European servicing center for Audemars, JLC, IWC, etc. When he saw my watch case, he put me in contact with their head case restorer. Really smart and competent guy. Refinishes Royal Oaks in his sleep. He’s spent the past week studying how to handle my Calatrava. Apparently, there is a particular piece of diamond polishing equipment be would need to borrow. Waiting to hear back from him.

Anyway, will know more about my options in the next few days.

In the meantime: kudos to Patek.

 

[lexmann]

I’ve been learning a lot about case finishing and polishing techniques, which has imparted a new understanding of how special Patek’s case work really is.

For some background, I noticed a defect (possibly a self-inflicted one) in the bezel of my Calatrava. A portion (about a quarter of it) is rounded off at the edge and lower than the rest of the bezel. I believe this likely happened as a result of overzealous hand-polishing on my part when trying to remove a couple of deeper scratches. Otherwise, it could have been the AD’s fault and I just never noticed it. Unlikely it came from Patek that way.

Anyway, of course, now I am obsessed with getting it fixed. The watch is currently with Patek for assessment, but I am 99% certain of the outcome: they will offer to polish down the bezel and whole case to match. I don’t like this approach because it will take away considerable material and re-profile the entire watch. Yet, Patek does not offer more intensive restoration (via laser welding) unless it is a much older piece or the damage is much worse. They do not weld material back onto rounded edges to restore them.

So, assuming I’m right, I need to pursue another path: an independent case restorer.

As you guys know, I used LA Watchworks to work on my Daytona case. Don’t take my word for it, but if you read around you’ll find that nobody in the world does better case refinishing and restoration on Rolexes. In fact, of the dozen or so well-known European and American case restorers I’ve spoken to, that seems to be the consistent consensus.

However LAWW will not help with my Calatrava! They looked at two dozen photos, studied the case construction for a week, and ultimately said they simply lack the expertise to get at the bezel from all angles without risking catastrophic case damage. As it turns out, each case restorer has his own specialized (often self-designed) tools and LAWW’s are specifically geared toward Rolex cases.

Now, LAWW will handle other non-Rolex watches, including a large number of Langes and Royal Oaks, but those all have cases that are all highly modular in construction and have designs that lend themselves to machine finishing. For example, the Royal Oak is time consuming to properly polish because of all the facets, but apparently it is quite easy to do technically: (1) the angles are all straight and (2) the bezel comes off.

The problem with the Calatrava is that the bezel and middle case are actually one piece! That means the side or the bezel (perpendicular to the flat plane of the middle case) cannot be polished with a lapping machine—you’d risk damaging the lugs.

Why on earth does Patek build cases this way? Chiefly because you can make a thinner case if you don’t need to design it for screwing-on a bezel. It is also the more traditional, artisanal way to do it.

As I’ve been learning, the skill involved in the case making is tremendous and requires a lot more hand work than most other makers deploy. It also requires specialized equipment. For example, to get at the side of the bezel, they turn the case on a lathe while someone free floats a knife-like tool with diamond paste over the surface as it spins. They have to do this without hitting the lugs! Then they have to hand-polish each case with wooden sticks and buffing wheels to finish them off. In comparison, typical Lange construction includes a removable bezel and can be polished mostly by machine.

So other than a greater appreciation for Patek, where does that leave me? There are no U.S. firms that can do the restoration work on my case. They all said: only Patek knows how to do this.

Apparently, the best case restorers are in Italy. A number of firms combine highly specialized and expensive machinery with artisanal hand-polishing skills to mimic factory finishing. I’m speaking with three of the best ones. Two have expressed concern that Patek construction is very difficult to work with but are willing to try. One is still assessing.

I’ve also spoken to a watchmaker in Austria who is the eastern European servicing center for Audemars, JLC, IWC, etc. When he saw my watch case, he put me in contact with their head case restorer. Really smart and competent guy. Refinishes Royal Oaks in his sleep. He’s spent the past week studying how to handle my Calatrava. Apparently, there is a particular piece of diamond polishing equipment be would need to borrow. Waiting to hear back from him.

Anyway, will know more about my options in the next few days.

In the meantime: kudos to Patek.

Wow!

 

[usctrojans31]

That Putin story is very interesting! I guess it proves the old adage of you don't get if you don't ask.

 

[officine]

Hey gang, wanted to ask for some advice. Gonna have a baby in September, looking to celebrate.

I'm looking for an everyday dress watch, maybe <$10k. Would love a complication in addition to time and date, with GMT being my favorite. 38-40mm. Steel case with a leather strap are also heavily preferred. Open to used as well.

Congrats!

@venessian correctly points out that your initial criteria is a bit broad. Keying in on "everyday + dress + gmt" I'd go with metal bracelet. I think @usctrojans31 nails it from your list....

Congrats!

Admittedly biased, but my vote is for the Geographic. It wears small. I'm 6'4" with a 6.25" wrist and it fits brilliantly. MUT would be my second choice.

View attachment 1597820

If you're into independents, you can get a Parmigiani Tonda in that range. One of my favorite dollar for dollar watch brands on the planet.

+1. The Geographic is a winner. Beautiful.

--------------------------------

If I may present two hybrid dress/sports watches not yet mentioned, perhaps a bit quirky for some, which can be purchased pre-owned well within your price range.

At one time having a reference time function was very useful for my work. My beloved Polar Exp II was my go to for many years, but I eventually sought something slimmer and dressier as an alternative for more formal occasions. The watch had to be somewhat rugged, definitely perspiration resistant. A dual time DJ would have been ideal, but that didn't exist. This Reverso Gran Sport Duo was pleasing to my eye, wore well with a suit, and did not require to come off the wrist for my travel exercise routine....it fit the bill. At 5ATM it is not a swimmer's watch, but it is good enough for wading in the shallow end of the pool or at the beach. Plus, when not traveling, I could use the reference time (white) dial for a different look. The bracelet is extremely comfortable. This model seems to not have found its footing in the JLC line, as it had a relatively short production run. It was likely not sporty enough to attract people away from Rolex or Omega offerings. As a con, the integrated bracelet doesn't lend to switching to leather straps. It's a Reverso model I almost never see on anyone's wrist. I like it. I think it can be had between $5-7k.

The other is a brand that many SFers avoid...here is Ulysse Nardin's San Marco GMT. This is my true DateJust alternative. The aesthetics are clearly different, and not for everyone. Like the DJ it is 36mm (a bit smaller than what you mentioned) and dresses up well. It has a nice weight to the watch head, a deep blue dial, nice case finishing, and a distinctive, comfortable bracelet (though not as comfy as the JLC). When arriving to a new destination, setting the local time is a breeze -- the pusher on the lower left moves the hour hand forward; the pusher on the upper right moves the hour hand backward. No need to mess with a bezel or pull the crown while the watch is on the wrist. This comes in handy when French-cuffed and suited. The window at the 10 o'clock position displays the home time in 24 hr increments -- with the "daylight" hours (6:00 to 17:00) displayed with a white background, and the "night hours" (18:00 to 5:00) in dark blue background. The window at 3 o'clock is the local date window. And, why I call it my DateJust, it is rated at 10atm. I've used it to swim laps during travel. It doesn't get babied at all (as you can see with the micro scratches). I have not had any performance issues. My one complaint is that the bracelet is a uniform 19mm. I wish they could have introduced a taper. It can be had between $2-3k.

 

[bdavro23]

I’ve been learning a lot about case finishing and polishing techniques, which has imparted a new understanding of how special Patek’s case work really is.

For some background, I noticed a defect (possibly a self-inflicted one) in the bezel of my Calatrava. A portion (about a quarter of it) is rounded off at the edge and lower than the rest of the bezel. I believe this likely happened as a result of overzealous hand-polishing on my part when trying to remove a couple of deeper scratches. Otherwise, it could have been the AD’s fault and I just never noticed it. Unlikely it came from Patek that way.

Anyway, of course, now I am obsessed with getting it fixed. The watch is currently with Patek for assessment, but I am 99% certain of the outcome: they will offer to polish down the bezel and whole case to match. I don’t like this approach because it will take away considerable material and re-profile the entire watch. Yet, Patek does not offer more intensive restoration (via laser welding) unless it is a much older piece or the damage is much worse. They do not weld material back onto rounded edges to restore them.

So, assuming I’m right, I need to pursue another path: an independent case restorer.

As you guys know, I used LA Watchworks to work on my Daytona case. Don’t take my word for it, but if you read around you’ll find that nobody in the world does better case refinishing and restoration on Rolexes. In fact, of the dozen or so well-known European and American case restorers I’ve spoken to, that seems to be the consistent consensus.

However LAWW will not help with my Calatrava! They looked at two dozen photos, studied the case construction for a week, and ultimately said they simply lack the expertise to get at the bezel from all angles without risking catastrophic case damage. As it turns out, each case restorer has his own specialized (often self-designed) tools and LAWW’s are specifically geared toward Rolex cases.

Now, LAWW will handle other non-Rolex watches, including a large number of Langes and Royal Oaks, but those all have cases that are all highly modular in construction and have designs that lend themselves to machine finishing. For example, the Royal Oak is time consuming to properly polish because of all the facets, but apparently it is quite easy to do technically: (1) the angles are all straight and (2) the bezel comes off.

The problem with the Calatrava is that the bezel and middle case are actually one piece! That means the side or the bezel (perpendicular to the flat plane of the middle case) cannot be polished with a lapping machine—you’d risk damaging the lugs.

Why on earth does Patek build cases this way? Chiefly because you can make a thinner case if you don’t need to design it for screwing-on a bezel. It is also the more traditional, artisanal way to do it.

As I’ve been learning, the skill involved in the case making is tremendous and requires a lot more hand work than most other makers deploy. It also requires specialized equipment. For example, to get at the side of the bezel, they turn the case on a lathe while someone free floats a knife-like tool with diamond paste over the surface as it spins. They have to do this without hitting the lugs! Then they have to hand-polish each case with wooden sticks and buffing wheels to finish them off. In comparison, typical Lange construction includes a removable bezel and can be polished mostly by machine.

So other than a greater appreciation for Patek, where does that leave me? There are no U.S. firms that can do the restoration work on my case. They all said: only Patek knows how to do this.

Apparently, the best case restorers are in Italy. A number of firms combine highly specialized and expensive machinery with artisanal hand-polishing skills to mimic factory finishing. I’m speaking with three of the best ones. Two have expressed concern that Patek construction is very difficult to work with but are willing to try. One is still assessing.

I’ve also spoken to a watchmaker in Austria who is the eastern European servicing center for Audemars, JLC, IWC, etc. When he saw my watch case, he put me in contact with their head case restorer. Really smart and competent guy. Refinishes Royal Oaks in his sleep. He’s spent the past week studying how to handle my Calatrava. Apparently, there is a particular piece of diamond polishing equipment be would need to borrow. Waiting to hear back from him.

Anyway, will know more about my options in the next few days.

In the meantime: kudos to Patek.

Stop now. Either accept the watch as it is and enjoy that its personal to you and how its lived with you, or sell it. No good is going to come from this escapade.

On the other hand, this sounds like it has the making of a Hermes wallet kind of story, and we havent had that kind of fun for a while...