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Saratorial_Splender

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Any more info on exactly what constitutes a "norweger", or its history? For example, Alden does a "Norwegian Split Toe" (NST). Would this still be considered a "norweger"?
1000

Found this translation of a German wiki page, but that was all I came across.
http://wikipedia.qwika.com/de2en/Norweger-Schuh
I think the Vass Norweger is one of the most stunning shoes I've ever come across. Sure would like a pair. But, for now, will have to live with just knowing a little more about its history......



More than anything, what makes a Norweger unique is its exaggerated split toe. That is original to this style, other characteristics, while prevalent, are not unique to the Norweger.
 
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mimo

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More than anything, what makes a Norweger unique is its exaggerated split toe. That is original to this style, other characteristics, while prevalent, are not unique to the Norweger.

Kashiwa,

I think there is some confusion sometimes because "Norwegian/Norweger/Norvegese" is both the name of a style of shoe, and the name of a type of construction. As SS said above, the "Norweger" style is a derby with a stitched apron and split toe. Generally it's also usually a heavier shoe, often with a double sole.

But the Norwegian construction, that involves a heavy, visible, usually double or triple stitch on the welt, can be applied to any shoe type.Look it up on here or elswhere for a diagram and description better than I could give, but basically it looks similar to the "Goyser" construction that's been shown many times in this thread.

So, you could have a "Norweger" shoe that is made in another way e.g. goodyear welted or even blake stitched. These are normally described in America as a "split toe blucher", but you'll also see them referred to as Norwegian/Norweger as they are with Vass. But at the same time, you can have, say, a full brogue, or a plain oxford, or a derby cap toe boot, made in the Norwegian manner, and described as "Norwegian/Norweger/Norvegese construction".

If you want to see what I mean in one place, take a look at Meermin's "Norwegian" models in their "Linea Maestro" range, and you'll see several shoes that are Norwegian in construction but not in style. And for the flip side, in their classic range of derbies, they have a Norweger-style that is goodyear welted - not Norvegese construction. The site is meermin.es
 
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Kashiwa

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More than anything, what makes a Norweger unique is its exaggerated split toe. That is original to this style, other characteristics, while prevalent, are not unique to the Norweger.



Kashiwa,

I think there is some confusion sometimes because "Norwegian/Norweger/Norvegese" is both the name of a style of shoe, and the name of a type of construction.  As SS said above, the "Norweger" style is a derby with a stitched apron and split toe.  Generally it's also usually a heavier shoe, often with a double sole.  

But the Norwegian construction, that involves a heavy, visible, usually double or triple stitch on the welt, can be applied to any shoe type.Look it up on here or elswhere for a diagram and description better than I could give, but basically it looks similar to the "Goyser" construction that's been shown many times in this thread.

So, you could have a "Norweger" shoe that is made in another way e.g. goodyear welted or even blake stitched.  These are normally described in America as a "split toe blucher", but you'll also see them referred to as Norwegian/Norweger as they are with Vass.  But at the same time, you can have, say, a full brogue, or a plain oxford, or a derby cap toe boot, made in the Norwegian manner, and described as "Norwegian/Norweger/Norvegese construction".  

If you want to see what I mean in one place, take a look at Meermin's "Norwegian" models in their "Linea Maestro" range, and you'll see several shoes that are Norwegian in construction but not in style.  And for the flip side, in their classic range of derbies, they have a Norweger-style that is goodyear welted - not Norvegese construction.  The site is meermin.es


Thank you gentlemen for your enlightening replies. I was not aware of the distinction between "Norweger" as style vs. construction. That helped clarify things immensely.
 

Fiddler

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How did you get your size narrowed down? The quality is always there it is the sizing that "changes with the seasons".

Well, I read this site till my eyes bled...and I understood that the normal lasts like 3636, F and New Peter are mainly true to size. The U Last you need to go up half a size from your normal.

But since I dont take U Last it was easier. Ive never worn anything below a 42 ever so that's where I start...Reszo assures me that is my size and you gotta have faith...also I wanted 4 pairs but settled for two since I want to assess the fit better....so I am getting the 3eyelet oxford in F Last in oil green calf and a loafer on the New Peter Last in Whiskey Shell. This will give me a good idea for future orders. Luckily I dont go so much for super formal shoes or I would be spending way too much on these shoes/

Have also asked Reszo to include insoles with the shoes in case they are a tad loose. I know they will never be tight.

Thats's my primitive method and I am feeling quite optimistic that it will work.
 

Fiddler

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Vass really are superb shoes - beautiful leather, beautiful construction, beautiful lasts, beautiful styles. Given the quality of the shoes, the prices are a bargain.
However, it's rather a pain to get hold of them ...

This is one of the main reasons I like this brand....because it's hard to get a hold of. Tracking down hard to find stuff is an adventure every gent must take seriously. I remember when I bought my stereo I was really pissed at the singapore retailer who was overcharging by a few thousand dollars just because they were the sole reseller. It took me a month to track down a dealer in dubai (after checking hong kong, indonesia and malaysia) and get it for 3 thousand dollars cheaper. Never underestimate the thrill of the chase.
 

SuitedDx

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I was able to take some better pics. Already thinking of my next pair.


Nice G! I actually (FINALLY) was able to reach my bank before closing to do the wire transfer. I should be receiving my pair in probably a week or so.

For my first pair, I went with a basic black austerity brogue but with a little detail change on the sides by having a ' } ' pattern similar to the G&G Wigmore. I decided to go simple and safe for my first one. If everything goes well, then I have a nice baseline.

Maybe the Old English II will be a next consideration...
 

gyasih

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Nice G! I actually (FINALLY) was able to reach my bank before closing to do the wire transfer. I should be receiving my pair in probably a week or so.
For my first pair, I went with a basic black austerity brogue but with a little detail change on the sides by having a ' } ' pattern similar to the G&G Wigmore. I decided to go simple and safe for my first one. If everything goes well, then I have a nice baseline.
Maybe the Old English II will be a next consideration...


You won't be disappointed!!!

My only wish is that they had leather colors similar to some of the JL Museum Calf variations or did more antiquing, a la EG.
 

NAMOR

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^ i agree, they dont seem to treat/antique their leather after the shoe is made the way EG or JL do

my norwegers are to be shipped today :bounce2:
 

mimo

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Trying to determine what color suede shoes does Vass offer.

^ i agree, they dont seem to treat/antique their leather after the shoe is made the way EG or JL do
my norwegers are to be shipped today
bounce2.gif

Namor, looking forward to pics


+1

Gyasih: someone posted this as a guide earlier in this thread. I don't think it's comprehensive - I've seen black, grey, burgundy and olive suede too recently. But it's a good place to start. Otherwise, I guess just email them.

 
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