The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Aloysius16]

Thank you. I will try to add other photos. I think the high sleeve cap is due to more padding on this side to compensate for a dropped shoulder. I have, however, noticed the exact same puckering from the exact same point on OTR jackets, some smug, some loose. This jacket is not especially snug, although I have noticed that the measurement from this point on the scye across the back tho the equivalent point on the other side is less than my other jackets.

What does ‘square the front shoulder’ mean? I have noticed that some of my OTR jackets have a shoulder angle that points very slightly more forwards than this bespoke jacket (perhaps due to more width across the upper back as mentioned above).

The balance of the jacket seems excellent in terms of the bottom (side view) and how it hangs at the front. However, there are more drag lines down the rear sides than I had expected.

 

[lngn2]

Thank you. I will try to add other photos. I think the high sleeve cap is due to more padding on this side to compensate for a dropped shoulder. I have, however, noticed the exact same puckering from the exact same point on OTR jackets, some smug, some loose. This jacket is not especially snug, although I have noticed that the measurement from this point on the scye across the back tho the equivalent point on the other side is less than my other jackets.

What does ‘square the front shoulder’ mean? I have noticed that some of my OTR jackets have a shoulder angle that points very slightly more forwards than this bespoke jacket (perhaps due to more width across the upper back as mentioned above).

The balance of the jacket seems excellent in terms of the bottom (side view) and how it hangs at the front. However, there are more drag lines down the rear sides than I had expected.

Who is it from if that's not a cheeky question?

 

[Aloysius16]

Who is it from if that's not a cheeky question?

It’s from a bespoke tailor local to me in Macclesfield UK, but I have an identical issue with a recently purchased Pal Zileri.

 

[Aloysius16]

Looks like it is caused by both cutting and sewing. Have to guess a bit due to lack of visuals. The sleeve looks too "dry" meaning there isn't sufficient fullness sewn into the sleeve. The sleeve cap looks a bit high in relation to the width. the jacket may be a bit snug ( cannot discern from this picture) and looks like the back is out of balance from the vertical drag under the back scye. You may need to square the front shoulder and slope the back. That's my interpretation from what is shown. Better pictures of the entire jacket may reveal other things.

Poor light photos I’m afraid, but here are some. The sleeve/sleevehead looks a bit worse here than it truly does due to posture/angle, but you can see the issue is on the right side (left side is close to perfect). While i’m sure the balance and back fit could be improved, I suspect there is insufficient room all around chest+biceps (the tailor did not take an over arm chest measurement). My shoulder point-to-point measure is slightly less than would be standard for my chest size, and then exacerbated by forward roll. Hence perhaps a need for more room across the very top of the back?

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[Despos]

Can't see much on new pictures. Ask your tailor.

 

[1up]

What modifications do I need to make to this shirt/pants from Luxire, can't seem to resolve the horizontal wrinkling across the back:

Apologies that the shirt was quite wrinkled by the end of the day.



So far I was thinking:

- Decrease thigh by 0.25"
- Decrease waist by 0.5"

 

[DFWWingnut]

What modifications do I need to make to this shirt/pants from Luxire, can't seem to resolve the horizontal wrinkling across the back:

Apologies that the shirt was quite wrinkled by the end of the day.

View attachment 1133863 View attachment 1133862 View attachment 1133864

So far I was thinking:

- Decrease thigh by 0.25"
- Decrease waist by 0.5"

Could be because hip measurement is too small. I had a similar issue and added .5” to my hips which solved it.

 

[1up]

Tried that first actually, but it didn’t do much, and it slides pretty easily over the hips now.

Is there any downside to increasing it even more so at the hips, to see if that would help, no detriment that I can think of?

Any other comments on the pants?

 

[AlonsoMerino]

Hello,

I was wondering if I could get some assistance?

Long story short, I tried a suit jacket that I haven’t worn in many months (the suit itself is 5 years old) and I noticed what looked like transparent threads sticking out from my arms in the area near the arm scye that were causing some itching.

After some examination I noticed this wasn’t from the fabric but from some sort of Interlining. The fabric is 100% wool but this interlining seems to be of some synthetic material.

My question is as follows, what exactly is this? Can it be removed or changed? Is this a sign of my suits age? If left to its own devices will it damage the wool fabric?

Ps: I tried to take a picture but it was difficult, in this one you can see a single thread that has a golden color due to the sunlight stricking it.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Lau-Kau]

Any hope for this suit? Best OTR fit yet, but the shoulders... What muscles hould I train to make myself fit this suit?? ;-) Having the same problems with other jackets also. Sorry for the shaky picture

 

[bdavro23]

I stumbled upon an old thread where a bunch of non-tailors were discussing this diagram. It got me thinking about the ways you would address this issue, first as an alteration, and secondly at the pattern stage. Presumably these would be two different approaches, so I'm interested in understanding each. Thoughts?

 

[Cidermonk]

Hello all,

Can I get a fit check on my recent proper cloth purchase? The shirt has been washed and pressed once since purchasing.

 

[papado]

Hello all,

Can I get a fit check on my recent proper cloth purchase? The shirt has been washed and pressed once since purchasing. View attachment 1136687 View attachment 1136688 View attachment 1136690 View attachment 1136691 View attachment 1136692 View attachment 1136693

I think it looks fairly solid--my preferences would be to probably add some darts to the back to add some shape/clean it up. The neck looks way large--I would say decrease .5in perhaps or re-measure your neck to get the right size.

 

[once a day]

I think it looks fairly solid--my preferences would be to probably add some darts to the back to add some shape/clean it up. The neck looks way large--I would say decrease .5in perhaps or re-measure your neck to get the right size.

Agreed with @papado - is the an OTR shirt or MTM?

 

[Cidermonk]

Agreed with @papado - is the an OTR shirt or MTM?

It is MTM by proper cloth. I've attached the dimensions of the shirt below.