The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[lfd75]

It looks fine to me.
The only thing that I would change are the shoes!

Thank you! I agree about the shoes (they're summer beaters).

 

[jonathanS]

I would trust the tailor. It looks like a good start!

Idk. Tailors are interesting in this regard. In my experience. I wouldn’t.

 

[ter1413]

Idk. Tailors are interesting in this regard. In my experience. I wouldn’t.

I am talking about that specific tailor crafting that specific suit.

 

[pickergc]

Can anyone diagnose what's going on with the shoulders/sleeveheads here? Could there be excess fabric extending the shoulder? The shirring in the sleeve head doesn't help/I'd prefer it gone. This is a RTW jacket so I suppose these are the things you deal with.

 

[Van Veen]

Is there a thread here for amateur tailors / seamsters? I'm dipping my toes in the water, starting with shirtmaking & alterations, but I'm a little intimidated by Cutter & Tailor.

(Apologize for the slightly off-topic post.)

 

[thefringthing]

@pickergc I'm guessing based on the long darts and curved pocket that these sleeves are a badly overdone attempt at the Neapolitan shirt-style shoulders that are trendy now.

 

[othertravel]

Can anyone diagnose what's going on with the shoulders/sleeveheads here? Could there be excess fabric extending the shoulder? The shirring in the sleeve head doesn't help/I'd prefer it gone. This is a RTW jacket so I suppose these are the things you deal with. View attachment 1125831

Who made it? Is it OTR?

 

[pickergc]

Who made it? Is it OTR?

Spier and Mackay - well, it was MTO but MTO in their already pre-dertermined sizes/fits. So, for all intents and purposes it was OTR.

 

[Aloysius16]

I bought a S&M blazer and it has the same issue. The top of the sleeve seems to have excess fabric and it looks even worse at the back of the armscye. One of the guys from S&M pm’d me to say it was a known issue as their manufacturer had made the sleevecap too large. I haven’t spoken to a tailor about a possible fix, but I guess it may be possible to reset the sleeve and tuck some of the sleevecap under the shoulder seam. I would personally not mind losing the spalla camicia effect as it is not very well done.

 

[Despos]

Is there a thread here for amateur tailors / seamsters? I'm dipping my toes in the water, starting with shirtmaking & alterations, but I'm a little intimidated by Cutter & Tailor.

(Apologize for the slightly off-topic post.)

There isn't any discussion of actual sewing on this sight. Lot's of members on Cutter and Tailor are like you, looking for help and instruction. Just jump in over there.

Took me a couple of minutes to "match" your location "nerdo Crombezia", I know where that is

 

[SuitedDx]

Apologies for the potential derailment. Curious if there is some purpose where jacket cuffs are basted(?), with buttons attached, but the other side are faux buttonholes. Is this a "trial" stiching? Just curious as to possible rationale for doing this. I assume you just don't get a knife and make holes through this. Thanks for the education.

 

[1up]

I bought an OTR Spier & Mackay suit (40R) and sized up in the pants from 32 to 34. I generally have large hips/buttocks so this helps relax the fit in the seat.

They fit quite nicely, and only required hemming, tapering below the knee, and the waist being taken. I've found that taking in the waist has caused some pocket flare that wasn't there previously - likely because the narrowing is done from the rear, not the front of the pants, and the pockets are being pulled a different direction.

Is this avoidable at all, could the tailor have some done something? Or should I just live with a bit of pocket flare.

Before Tailoring (Apologies for the quality on this one):



After Tailoring:

.

 

[Aloysius16]

I have a dropped and forward shoulder on my right side in particular. I often get a sort of ‘pucker’ that emerges from the back of the sleevehead on this side. It is also present on a bespoke suit that I have just collected. Is there any alteration that could correct this?

Here it is on the new suit:

 

[Despos]

I bought an OTR Spier & Mackay suit (40R) and sized up in the pants from 32 to 34. I generally have large hips/buttocks so this helps relax the fit in the seat.

They fit quite nicely, and only required hemming, tapering below the knee, and the waist being taken. I've found that taking in the waist has caused some pocket flare that wasn't there previously - likely because the narrowing is done from the rear, not the front of the pants, and the pockets are being pulled a different direction.

Is this avoidable at all, could the tailor have some done something? Or should I just live with a bit of pocket flare.

Before Tailoring (Apologies for the quality on this one):

View attachment 1130868

After Tailoring:

View attachment 1130866 .

The fix is dependent on finding a tailor with trouser construction expertise and not just altering and you are willing to spend more for the time it will take to alter.
The waistband is opened (removed by opening the seam attaching the waistband to the trouser) from the center back to just past the front crease.
You need more cloth across the hips on the front panels. Make a small/short dart between the front crease and the pocket. This brings cloth from the back part to the front. When they sew the waistband on they need to draw/shrink the top of the trouser in by working fullness in over your hips. This is done from the front crease to just past the back darts. The result is that the actual waistband is reduced the 2" you need going from a 34 to 32 waist but only reduces the actual trouser across the hips by only .5 to 1". This is how you reduce the waist but not the seat/hips of the trouser. If done properly and done well they will be more comfortable and no pocket flare. If these are RTW and not much hand work it isn't as complicated or time consuming as a hand top trouser would be. It is way more work to an alteration tailor who is doing basic taking in/letting out all day. It isn't so much to do if you are used to making trousers every day.

 

[Despos]

I have a dropped and forward shoulder on my right side in particular. I often get a sort of ‘pucker’ that emerges from the back of the sleevehead on this side. It is also present on a bespoke suit that I have just collected. Is there any alteration that could correct this?

Here it is on the new suit:

View attachment 1132618

Looks like it is caused by both cutting and sewing. Have to guess a bit due to lack of visuals. The sleeve looks too "dry" meaning there isn't sufficient fullness sewn into the sleeve. The sleeve cap looks a bit high in relation to the width. the jacket may be a bit snug ( cannot discern from this picture) and looks like the back is out of balance from the vertical drag under the back scye. You may need to square the front shoulder and slope the back. That's my interpretation from what is shown. Better pictures of the entire jacket may reveal other things.