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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    The suit is the wrong size for you. Go down at least one size in this brand. The alterations are not done properly and poorly executed. There shouldn't be any puckering on the seams. That is not a pressing issue. You may have shoulder issues as your shoulder slope does not align with the jacket's shoulder slope. That's why the collar doesn't come close to your neck and you have bowing on the front of the lapels. Taking in the center back on the jacket is a big mistake. That's why the side seams are pulled to the back and creating the wrinkles on the side that are visible on the front view from the armholes down to the pocket.The way it was altered the jacket is twisted and distorted. Trouser could have been reduced on the front panels and not just on the back. Trouser length looks short. Sleeves look short too but that is subjective. Can you find/use another tailor?
     

  2. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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  3. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Did you order this suit MTM or is it RTW?
    What looks off in the picture is how low the trouser sits on your hips. Is the waist too large? Things that could be improved are rotating the sleeves. They are set forward too much for how your arms hang. That would clean up the wrinkles along the back of the sleeves. It's a big job. The jacket length is as short as you should go. Don't make it any shorter. You have a very high right hip. That is pretty normal with a low right shoulder like yours.
    Overall it's a good fit. The things I mentioned could be addressed by a good MTM process.
     

  4. kevin319

    kevin319 Member

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    Hello!

    Recently purchased a new suit and wanted to get SF's opinion on the fit and feedback on how to make the suit better. Personally I think the jacket fits well but the sleeves seem to "roll inwards" when hung. There are also some creases on the back of the suit but not sure how to fix for this. The trouser seems to be tight from waist down to quads with little breathing room for the crotch area. Pockets do not flare out when standing but it is uncomfortable when sitting down. Not sure if the rise is the cause of the tightness or if my butt is just big. Open to all suggestions and feedback. Thanks everyone!

    OW_FRONT-B.jpg OW_SIDE-B.jpg OW_BACK-B.jpg OW_PANTS_S.jpg OW_PANTS_B.jpg
     

  5. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Have you had a large weight loss at some time?
    The trouser legs are too narrow for your body type. If they're uncomfortable when you do normal things like sitting you won't enjoy wearing the suit. The jacket looks fine.
     

  6. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    JefferyD could shed more light on this since he knows both RTW and Custom work.
    My opinion is based on talking with a few people who have graduated from college fashion or clothing programs and I hate to generalize on such a small sampling. Pattern making/design today doesn't have the insight that tailors get from working with different body types or postures. The ubiquitous problem of wrinkles under the seat are from inadequacies in the common pattern drafting system. The best RTW pattern I have seen dealing with this issue is Brioni. Try on a pair of Brioni trousers and see if this fitting issue is as prominent. I'm sure there are other brands but I don't see that many RTW trousers. A well balanced trouser pattern (drafting system) will correct this. As a side note, not all tailors have figured this out either.
     

  7. Aquafortis

    Aquafortis Senior Member

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    Thank you.
     

  8. kevin319

    kevin319 Member

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    Thanks for responding. I lost about ~30lbs after college but am quite surprised you noticed. How did you tell? Would you recommend taking out the waist, quad and the rise or do a complete remake of the pants? The suit was ordered from an online MTO company and I believe they will remake if a tailor can't fix it.
     

  9. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    This is what I would tell anyone ordering clothes online. Make the leg and seat larger and reduce if needed. If too large and you have them taken in; don't cut off the extra material so you create outlets that can be used later if you gain weight.
    Probably isn't enough outlet in the legs to make them comfortable and you can't make the trouser leg bigger without adequate outlets. If they offer to remake them, do it. Don't wait. They need to cut the trouser from the same piece of cloth to match the color.
    Making clothes for so long you can tell when someone has had a large weight loss. I asked to confirm to know if my instinct is correct.
     

  10. sebflynn

    sebflynn Well-Known Member

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    I gave the jacket a good steam and took the pictures in the day so 90% of the wrinkles are gone. As far as body type goes, think swimmer/gymnast kind of build, I'm not big but fairly muscular on the back, lats and shoulders. 20190311_155626.jpg 20190311_155320.jpg 20190311_155122.jpg
     

  11. Aquafortis

    Aquafortis Senior Member

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    I'm not a tailor, but in my experience with many jacket alterations, I doubt that shoulder divot is being caused by your delts. More typical is should divots being caused because the jacket is too tight across the back, and the shoulder can't relax down. It appears in your photo that the back center seam is showing some pulling/rippling, which would support my thesis.
     

  12. sebflynn

    sebflynn Well-Known Member

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    That's a really common misconception that the wrinkling under the collar is caused by tight shoulders, it's actually all about how your shoulders and neck naturally sit, I have a very upright posture the rippling bellow the collar is super common and seen on pretty much all jackets off the rack for me. The shoulder divots would be solved with a wider shoulder but would make the rest of the suit huge.
     

  13. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

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    Yep - we can discuss fit, but you need to find another alterations tailor. That back seam is a long way off straight...
     

  14. ThePanda

    ThePanda Member

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    Double post... please delete
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2019

  15. ThePanda

    ThePanda Member

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    Thank you for your quick reply!

    My belly button falls about middle between the buttons closer to the top one. The trouser sits at my hip bone. The waist is pretty snug. I think this is an Indochino low waist fit thing I will try them on again.

    Oh man does the seat need to be let out... it gives me a wedgie. I believe the sewing under there wasn't correct.

    What measurement should the sleeves be taken back?

    Thanks again!

    Thank you as well.

    This is an Indochino's MTM. I think the trouser sits right at above hip bones.

    I didn't know about the hip thing... i have never seen that before...
     

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