The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[mensimageconsultant]



Thanks for the input. I had a feeling it might be too tight in the back because, well, it FELT too tight in the back. I'll plan to get the legs shortened up a little, but can you be more specific about the other problems in the pants? I'm posting new additional pictures to give you a better view of the pants. I see some waves starting right below the side pockets and stretching to behind my knees. Can or should this be fixed?

It should be fixed, if possible. It's for a tailor, in person, to determine exactly why, aside from the excess length, that's happening. It might be due to the underlying dimensions of the lower body, which shouldn't be shown here.

 

[spoonstar]

I got a shirt from Luxire in recently, and I'm looking to make some slight adjustments to nail down the fit. My sleeves billow a bit still, and there is definitely some excess fabric in the lower back. So far, I'm looking to:

• adjust the neck by +0.25", it's a tad too tight on my adam's apple.
• adjust the sleeve length by -0.25"
• adjust the sleeve width by -0.5"
• adjust waist and bottom backs by -1.0", keeping front the same as previous

There is some slight pulling of my shirt when raising my arms, which I included a picture of as well. Is there something I could change to alleviate that? Do my adjustments sound good/awful, or any other things I may have missed?

 

[sultan22]

I'm no expert, so I will limit my feedback to my first impressions as a regular observer.

1. The pants are too long.
2. The jacket sleeves seems to be long as well.
3. Maybe the jacket is also about an inch or so too long ?

From here onwards it will be more about my style preference. So I would keep quiet and let the experts comment.

 

[sultan22]

@mensimageconsultant thanks for your reply on the other thread. Very valuable feedback.
I'm also posting here to solicit more feedback as mentioned in the other thread.

Please help critique the trial shirt I received from Modern Tailor.
The sleeves are very short due to a severe misunderstanding. I provided the inside length of the sleeve and it was taken as the outside length. The picture in the guide is a bit misleading, but to be fair the desc says outside.

Apart from the obvious issue what else needs to be corrected ?

I'm not sure why there is pooling at the back? Otherwise it seems decent.
The measurements I provided are from a slim fitting shirt I liked, and for the most part it seems good.

My concerns are.
1. Why there is pooling at the back?

2. Is the shirt too fitting ?
(This is more about my style preference than anything, as they did it based on my measurements).

3. Does the collar look all right?

 

[Xancatrius]

Can anyone explain to me the merits of hand stitching the lapel line? I don't mean the actual lapel itself, but the line on which the fabric is folded outward to form the lapel. I have a few jackets, and some have the lapel lines hand stitched (I can feel the stitches while running my fingers along the line) while others are simply folded back onto the jacket itself.

Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thank you.

 

[jefferyd]



Can anyone explain to me the merits of hand stitching the lapel line? I don't mean the actual lapel itself, but the line on which the fabric is folded outward to form the lapel. I have a few jackets, and some have the lapel lines hand stitched (I can feel the stitches while running my fingers along the line) while others are simply folded back onto the jacket itself. 


Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thank you.

Unless your suit is from Oxxford or a good bespoke maker, this line is not stitched by hand but by blindstitch machine. And they are virtually all done by machine, whether you can feel it or not.

The roll line, as it is called, has a tendency to gape, or pull away at the chest. To help prevent this, a piece of tape is sewn invisibly along this line, and as it is sewn it is being pulled to effectively shorten the roll line, which helps this area hug the chest. Sometimes the tape is very heavy, sometimes light. Also the type of thread can vary which is why it is easier to feel in some garments and not others. Inexpensive makers may only glue this tape down and not stitch it down, in which case you will feel only the tape and no stitching.

 

[pbuk]

Hi ,looking for help.
I recently bought Neil Barrett jacket on line.
I always have to get the arms shortened on everything I buy and with functional cuffs my tailor always does this from the shoulder.
The jacket has button holes stitched in but not cut with the 2 buttons nearest the cuff on the inside edge and the second 2 visible on the outside
The labels attached state" the first two buttonholes on the sleeve of this garment are deliberately closed to allow the sleeves to be shortened.
Remember to ask the store to cut the two closed buttonholes if the sleeves are the correct length"
None of the button holes are open and if the sleeves were shortened from the cuff the stitches round the uncut buttonholes would still show .
Is there something I'm not getting as my thoughts are to get my tailor to shorten from shoulder as usual and open the four buttonholes and move second two buttons to inside edge

 

[Rory Duffy]

False or dummy buttonholes are a common feature. Indeed my former masters at Pooles would have the first two as dummies and the second two real, to allow for alteration. When the buttonholes are hand-sewn these stitches can be removed without scaring the cloth.

In this instance they are by machine, for the same principle. Unfortunately the machine can scare the cloth when removed, particularly on a cotton or corduroy like this one. If it where a wool perhaps the scaring would be minimised.

In short, you've missed nothing, the production manager has.

 

[Shirtmaven]



@mensimageconsultant thanks for your reply on the other thread. Very valuable feedback. I'm also posting here to solicit more feedback as mentioned in the other thread. Please help critique the trial shirt I received from Modern Tailor. The sleeves are very short due to a severe misunderstanding. I provided the inside length of the sleeve and it was taken as the outside length. The picture in the guide is a bit misleading, but to be fair the desc says outside. Apart from the obvious issue what else needs to be corrected ? I'm not sure why there is pooling at the back? Otherwise it seems decent. The measurements I provided are from a slim fitting shirt I liked, and for the most part it seems good. My concerns are. 1. Why there is pooling at the back? 2. Is the shirt too fitting ? (This is more about my style preference than anything, as they did it based on my measurements). 3. Does the collar look all right?

the shirt is too tight n the waist and hip add 2" to both and then take in with darts.

 

[sultan22]

the shirt is too tight n the waist and hip add 2" to both and then take in with darts.

Thank you for your feedback. That could fix the pooling in the back?

 

[Shirtmaven]



Thank you for your feedback. That could fix the pooling in the back?

it will help

 

[sultan22]

it will help

Thanks a lot!
The response from Modern Tailor has been quite slow.
Lets wait and see what they plan to do. I asked if they could redo the shirt for me.

 

[Shirtmaven]



Thanks a lot!
The response from Modern Tailor has been quite slow.
Lets wait and see what they plan to do. I asked if they could redo the shirt for me.

who made the mistake on the sleeve measurement?
his is the reason I do not want an online MTM shirt business.

 

[sultan22]

who made the mistake on the sleeve measurement?
his is the reason I do not want an online MTM shirt business.

It was a missunderstanding. I provided the inside length and what they expected was the outside length.
I'm sure I'm not the only one who confused this measurement.

The customer service folks got back to me saying the tailor thought the sleeve length was unusually short and asked me to measure again.
But it wasn't made clear it was the outside length that was required.

They also said the armhole and bicep width was too small. However I didn't notice any issues there.
At least I was comfortable moving around in it and I normally like to wear fairly slim fit shirts.

 

[bbarling11]

Hi Guys,

I'm after some advice on my first MTM suit I had made in Northampton UK. It was made for my brother-in-law's wedding (hence the lining details).

I'm concerned about the fit. On the first fitting it was way too big so I had it tapered a lot. However, I think it still feels too big.

Also, I've noticed it pulls to the left slightly, pulling the right vent open.

The trousers are also not quite right, pulling on the right.

Any and all suggestions on how to correct this suit would be greatly appreciated as it was £750. If it is not right I'll ask for it to be re-made.

The guy I bought it off has great testimonials and is very genuine so I'm sure he will correct what is nessesary.

Thanks.