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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. albertm

    albertm Member

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    Thanks jdrizzy! Any experts out there care to provide their thoughts/feedback? :)
     
  2. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    Location:
    Ann Arbor, MI
    Not a tailor but my 2 cents on your jacket:
    - shoulders actually look OK to me. I wouldn't narrow them myself. If you narrow too much then you will look pear-shaped, even though you are not
    - would not slim the arms--see above
    - neck circle is too big. This can be tightened/reduced with a remake. Take pictures with your top shirt button done up.
    - do NOT raise the buttoning point. If anything it is a touch high for my taste but I know this is the current look. I'd actually consider lowering it 0.5-1".
    - armholes are way too large. Definitely would ask for them to be raised.
    - your right shoulder is low -- see how the right side of your jacket (front and back) is collapsing, while the left side looks relatively good? They need to correct for a low right shoulder.
    - personally I'd lengthen the jacket about 1"
     
  3. albertm

    albertm Member

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    Thanks very much breakaway01 - appreciate your advice, and agree with all your comments. Here's a photo of the neck circle, which as you mentioned is too large. A couple of quick follow-up questions too:

    (1) Any idea as to how I can fix the collar on my next Indochino order - I don't see an option for this?
    (2) How do I go about changing the armhole size on my next Indochino order - I don't see an option for this?

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  4. jdrizzy

    jdrizzy Senior member

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    Canada
    God damn, looks so much worse this way (Sorry, just I'm not a fan of indochino, people pay good money and get stuff like this)

    Not sure how patterns are created, but it just looks like they made the front chest piece too small, and it doesn't extend closer to your neck. Lengthen the front chests and it would probably drape better and create a better v.

    Never ordered from indo before, but can't you just straight up tell them to cut the armhole higher?
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2015
  5. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    Aug 29, 2013
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, MI
    I have never worked with them either. I'd suggest emailing them with photos rather than trying to work with their online forms.
     
  6. randomnoob

    randomnoob Senior member

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    Apr 23, 2014
    I recently bought 3 Polo sport coats, size 38S. I am 5'8" 150lb (was 155-160lb before, but i stopped lifting), chest measures 38". however that is down from a ~39" measurement a year ago. I have just started lifting weights again so I may add a few pounds of bulk to my upper body. The actual chest on the jackets is 39"

    2 of the 3 coats fit OK, one is too slim. I replaced all 3 with 40S and took them to the RL store for alterations. They pinned about an inch down the middle of the back, and the same in the waist. However the tailor commented that the shoulders are a little wide and 38 would be better for that. But if i gain bulk or want to wear something heavier than a dress shirt, it might be small.

    What is the correct thing to do in this situation?
    - Buy the jacket with the best fitting shoulders even though the chest may end up with no extra room and it can't be let out there
    - Buy a slightly bigger jacket, take in the back and sides, and deal with shoulders that are 1 size big? That could potentially be altered at a greater expense though it's not something they do at the RL store.

    We're not talking massive differences here, but these weren't cheap jackets. It would suck to keep the 38 and not be able to fit into it in a couple years, on the other hand for the $$ spent i want it to fit properly
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2015
  7. radchad3

    radchad3 Active Member

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    Mar 1, 2013
    Ok, looking for some honest feedback. I am going to be sending this suit (Kent Wang) and either pant (navy or charcoal) to Luxire for a light gray suit soon. Also looking for opinions on the shirt (Luxire) as well since I will be purchasing more of them as well. Thank you!

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    My thoughts so far:

    - too much room in the seat of the navy suit pants but not sure exactly what.
    - -.5cm on each side of the bottom of the shirt
    - -.5cm on the length of the navy suit pants
    - Please ignore the length on the charcoal pants as they have not been altered yet.
    - Which pants look the best? Should I take in the seat on the navy or just go with the charcoal?
    - Any suggestions for the wrinkles in the shirt between the tie and lapels in the 1st 2 pics?

    Thank you all very much for your thoughts!

    Chad
     
  8. BlackYeti

    BlackYeti Well-Known Member

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    Sep 2, 2015
    @radchad3 The jacket looks top heavy. Lower the gorge and raise the button stance a bit for better balance.
     
  9. Kevin24

    Kevin24 Well-Known Member

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    Oct 26, 2014
    Got this Hickey Freeman sport jacket the other day from Sierra Trading Post.

    I am very unsure about the fit as there seems to be some excess space in the lapels. I am thinking about returning it and getting one from Suit Supply instead.

    I would be curious to hear feedback.

    Thank you in advance for any replies I might get.

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  10. Leon2k2

    Leon2k2 New Member

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    Last edited: Dec 5, 2015
  11. Xcaliber

    Xcaliber Member

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    Nov 24, 2015
    My first $400 suit from Men's Warehouse many years ago fit like a garbage bag and I was swimming in it, the fabric was also terrible, it was the reason why i hated wearing suits. Since then I've owned few Macy's BAR III 100% wool suits, and some JCPenny's Poly suits, none of them cost more than $300, all of them needed adjustment from my tailor to shorten the sleeves, suppressed waist, and shorten the pants, but all of them still didn't fit as well as I'd like. I believed one of the problem is that I have a petite body frame, I'm 40 yr old and have been at 5'6 and only 120 lb throughout my entire adult life, it's impossible to find any OTR suits to fit me properly without going through adjustments by my tailor. Based on a friend suggestion I decided to give local MTM a try, with high hope that it would fit me better, since all measurements were done by the reputable tailor/owner, it cost me an arm and leg at $2K for this italian suits!

    Well, after 3 weeks I picked it up last weekend, the trousers is perfect and am very impressed with the fit, fabric and construction. Unfortunately the jacket doesn't fit quite right under both arms at the back, triceps area also looks awful. I'm still waiting for the shop owner to respond to my email inquiry if this is something can be fix by them. In the mean time, I wanted to get some few inputs from you guys to see exactly what went wrong with my suits, if it is an easy fix or at all salvageable by any tailor. Man I feel stupid for spending so much money on a suits that do not fit better than the cheap Bar III from Macy's.


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    Last edited: Nov 24, 2015
  12. Koala-T

    Koala-T Senior member

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    Austin
    IANAT, but yeah, you are right that the back looks too big, and I'd say the problem with the sleeves is primarily pitch.
     
  13. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Senior member

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    Are you supposed to taper the dress trousers when you shorten them at the tailor?

    I bought a suit from SuitSupply in the Summer, and the trousers need to be shortened by a couple inches. And the seller recommended tapering them too. What is a decent leg opening for suit trousers? I am 5'7 for reference.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2015
  14. Koala-T

    Koala-T Senior member

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    Location:
    Austin
    15"-16" around, would probably be good for your height. And yes, you can certainly have them tapered. It all depends on how fashion forward you want to look. I hear the SuSu reps try to talk everyone into a smaller tighter jacket than they should wear, so maybe they are fine.

    Do you the circumference of the leg opening as it stands right now?
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. DarkRider23

    DarkRider23 New Member

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    Feb 25, 2011
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    Can I get someone's two cents on the shoulders for this jacket? Decided to stop by the store on my way to the gym today and try them on. The first is a 38R and the second is a 39R. To me, they both look fine and pretty much identical with the 39 being a tad bit bigger on the shoulders. I just wanted someone else's opinion before I pulled the trigger and bought one of the suits in either size.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2015
  16. flvinny521

    flvinny521 Senior member

    Messages:
    616
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    Dec 2, 2011
    Location:
    Palm Beach, FL
    Not a tailor, but they both look too tight. The button is pulling on both.
     
  17. Koala-T

    Koala-T Senior member

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    Also, I assume you are buying pants to match it.
     
  18. virtu

    virtu Member

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    Nov 23, 2015
    Hello all :)

    New member here and this is my 3rd post.

    As indicated in another thread (http://www.styleforum.net/t/512711/...estions-classic-menswear-wk-of-nov-23-2015/15) I need a little bit more instruction about this jacket.


    Quote: In the other thread I received the advise that the shoulder are a little bit wide, but now I have one more information, I live in Canada and here I definitely need to use a sweater under the jacket, so remembering that I already tried a 44T and it is ok, but seems that if I use something thicker under it will be too small, do you think for winter conditions where I am going to use a sweater this jacket will be ok?

    Edit: also my shoulder bone is just around 0.4cm off from the seam of the shoulder jacket.
    Edit II: sleeve and all other minor adjustments will be made if I decided to keep this jacket.

    Thanks a lot :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2015
  19. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Senior member

    Messages:
    979
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    Jan 20, 2012
    No, sorry I do not have the circumference right now, but I didn't think the leg opening needed the tapering, and the tailor/seamstress didn't say I needed it either.
     
  20. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Senior member

    Messages:
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    Dec 6, 2011
    I apologize in advance for the abomination contained herein.

    I recently got a MTM suit from Black Lapel (I had actually had a quite good experience with Indochino a few years ago, but wanted to try BL as they seem to have a slightly better rep). I know, these online MTM aren't great, but I have an odd shape and it's impossible to find a suit off the rack that fits after tailoring.

    I'm 5'7"/170lbs, bodybuilder/athletic build with a ~41" chest and 32" waist. Broad shoulders, big chest, narrow stomach/waist, but larger butt.

    I think in my mind I wanted to "highlight" my physique rather than complement/soften my build, and ended up with a suit jacket that obviously needs major work.

    Here are two photos, front and back (I apologize for the quality). The sleeves need to be lengthened a tad, that I can figure as much. The stomach/waist is where the biggest problem is, obviously. Way too tapered/suppressed, which causes terrible bunching in the back (there's a bit on the upper back/shoulders too, but nothing nearly as bad IMHO). I am trying to figure out how much to have this "let out" (I am actually going to have the jacket remade, I just don't know how much to tell them to add back onto the original measurement for the stomach/waist).

    Also, do you think the flare at the bottom of the coat is simply because of the extra waist suppression, or is that a sign of the measurements of the hips/bottom of the coat being too large?
    Thanks, and try not to laugh too much! You guys are an amazing resource!

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