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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. esantosnyc

    esantosnyc Member

    Messages:
    19
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2015
    Does anyone know if there are any disadvantages to narrowing the shoulders on a suit jacket? Of course i'd rather just buy a suit jacket that fits my chest/shoulders but I always need to size up so that I can get the correct size pants.
     
  2. Chiliarches

    Chiliarches Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    45
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2010
    Location:
    Chicago
    

    Shoulders are very difficult to change and easy to mess up. If the shoulders don't fit, you should probably find another suit.

    Are the pants for th correct jacket beyond tailoring? Is there not enough material to let them out?
     
  3. esantosnyc

    esantosnyc Member

    Messages:
    19
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2015
    The pants have enough fabric in the waist but unfortunately it's the seat that is the problem. Unfortunately Suitsupply is not known to offer a generous amount of excess fabric in that area.
     
  4. LGHT

    LGHT Senior member

    Messages:
    121
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2015
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    I made that mistake and got a larger suit so the pants will be bigger and got talked into getting it tailored. The end result was horrible and it's pretty much a loss at this point. The arm width is huge and if I tapper the bottom it just looks silly. The sides that got taken in don't look right because now the pockets are too far out and almost sit on my hips and the shoulders stick out and pinch as a result. Luckily I found a tailor that pointed out the previous guys mistakes and flat old told me he would have never done the job because the end result will just look bad.

    I just got back a new suit and although the waist is a bit snug the over all result and fit of the suit is a huge improvement. To be honest I actually got used to my waist fitting loose because I lost a good amount of weight in the last year. So I was buying up so the pants would fit when I shouldn't have been.

    Now I'm learning how suit pants should fit "snug" and a bit on the tight side.
     
  5. kashmir

    kashmir Senior member

    Messages:
    711
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2010
    Hi tailors,

    Suppose a jacket's chest circumference is half an inch smaller than what the wearer's usually wear. Would letting out the center back seam to achieve additional chest circumference allow for a more comfortable fit, or would there be major issues?

    thanks!
     
  6. s1444

    s1444 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2015
    Hello,

    I just bought this cheap suit, does it fit well? I'm concerned about the lapels puffing when I place my hands in my pockets.

    It's not a tailored fit by any means, but do you think I can get a better fit off-the-rack?

    Link to the fit video:
    http://gfycat.com/WideLoathsomeGermanwirehairedpointer
     
  7. dsmdylan

    dsmdylan New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2014
    If a suit's drop doesn't work for you, just move on. There are way too many good options out there to fret over this.
     
  8. jmc23

    jmc23 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2015
    Hey

    Just got a new suit and would like some opinions on possible alterations. I was thinking the vest needs to be taken in.

    Thanks

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. bracar0001

    bracar0001 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    May 2, 2015
    how does this sienna fit?


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And how does it compare to this suit in fit/appearance?[​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2015
  10. fcong

    fcong Member

    Messages:
    23
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2015
    I just bought this Canali in charcoal, and was wondering whether the shoulders are too wide for me?

    Also, I wonder how to alter it to fit me better - if shoulders are not an issue, any suggestions or comments?
    Some quick thoughts (I may be wrong):
    1. The jacket should be taken-in in the midsection OR change the buttons?
    2. Shorten both sleeves a bit
    3. ..???

    Thanks!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2015
  11. drjol

    drjol Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2015
    Hi,

    Ordered shirt and trousers from Luxire using a variety of measurements with the attached results. My thoughts were:

    2. Shirt: Add darts, make the shoulders smaller to decrease wrinkles at the back, and increase the chest.

    1. Trousers: Decrease the rise and slightly shorten.

    Would be grateful for any advice.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

     
  12. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    8,962
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    Moved the thread for you, drjol. You'll get a lot more feedback in here.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. drjol

    drjol Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2015
  14. sammybt

    sammybt New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    Location:
    Singapore, Iowa, London
    Hi gents!

    Been a longtime lurker, learnt lots from the forum, and ordered a suit a few weeks ago from a reputable tailor. It arrived in the mail a few days ago, and a number of problems with the fit have been bugging me since.

    First the basics:
    - Tailor: (I don't want to tarnish the operation's reputation, so I won't give too many identifying details now) based in a large Asian city, specialises in bespoke/MTM on their premises and in other cities
    - Fabric: Holland & Sherry Fiesta (I picked the fabric from a H&S swatch book, Fiesta I read off the label attached to my suit)
    - Measurements were based off my old suit (made years ago, which fit me extremely well when first made, but is now noticeably snug especially around the middle) - the tailors measured my old suit, then adjusted the recorded measurements based on my body during the appointment. Frankly I wasn't sure what to think about the first part of this method, as I had explicitly mentioned that my old suit no longer fits well.

    I wasn't expecting a knock-me-out suit, but for the price I paid and their reputation (a lot of good reviews), I confess I hoped for something better - or am I just being picky?

    Here are some pictures - I lightened them a little to highlight how the fabric falls - the actual color is darker. The suit IS a little creased - it arrived in a box and I haven't had a chance to get it pressed.

    My new suit

    Side - buttoned - the sleeves hide my shirt cuff. I had mentioned that I wanted a thin rim of exposed cuff - the tailor seemed to make especial note of it at the time, but the sleeves are still too long.
    [​IMG]

    Back - shoulder divots
    [​IMG]

    Back with arms raised - weird fabric bunching?
    Also shoulder divots
    [​IMG]

    Back - arms stretched in front. Weird bunching underneath collar?
    [​IMG]

    Front - unbuttoned. Too-long sleeves.
    [​IMG]

    Side - unbuttoned.
    [​IMG]


    Trousers seem all right
    [​IMG]

    I have a slightly slanted waistline from mild scoliosis. This is quite obvious here.
    [​IMG]

    Front - buttoned - Bad shoulder divots
    The lapel could be more generous. My fault - I wanted a conservative suit with normal lapel widths, but was convinced by the tailor to go for a narrower lapel against my better judgment. The pocket flaps, which are standard width, now seem too wide compared to the underwhelming lapels.
    Is the gorge too high/ ok?
    [​IMG]

    Front - buttoned, arms raised. Again bad divots
    [​IMG]


    My questions to all the knowledgeable gentlemen here:
    - Are my issues with the suit real or imagined?
    - If real, can all/ some of the problems be fixed by a "normal" tailor?

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2015
  15. quigleysr

    quigleysr Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2015
    I posted in the Spier and Mackay thread but thought I'd try here as well. If that is frowned upon, please delete the inappropriate post.

    I just received the Navy hopsack blazer, size 42. I'm very happy with it overall, and upon initial views of myself in the mirror, I was thinking it only needed a slight sleeve adjustment and some waist tapering. However, after taking a few pictures, I am now concerned that it appears fairly chopped for my body. Am I doomed to waiting for S&M to make long sizes more available in order to get an extra inch in the body? Or is this something that can work? I was really looking forward to ordering two suits in the bundle this week if the blazer had fit well.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. BlackYeti

    BlackYeti Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    58
    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2015
    @quigleysr , looks too short to me as well.


    @sammybt , in addition to the problems you identified, which I agree with…

    - primary issue: the whole jacket is crooked due to your scoliosis: center seam is crooked, left shoulder is higher than right shoulder
    - the front of the jacket is too short given your backward lean
    - too tight around the seat—split vents
    - shoulder opening too tight—divots both in sleeves and in the body of the jacket
    - upper back is too tight, giving the sausaged appearance (loosening the upper back will also make your waist look slimmer)
    - button stance could be lowered slightly to elongate your torso (hard to tell without a full body shot)


    @fcong , the shoulders don't look too wide, esp. given the size of your head (from what the blurred image suggests), but too padded, giving an unnatural slope. Not sure if the waist can be taken in any more given the pulling that's already visible. The back and shoulders also don't fit you properly, causing pulling in the upper arms and between the shoulder blades. Finally, perhaps more a problem with the camera angle, the jacket also looks too short for you. My suggestion is to return the piece given the costs of necessary alterations.
     
  17. sammybt

    sammybt New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    Location:
    Singapore, Iowa, London
    Thanks BlackYeti! Will contact the tailor to see what can be done. The problems are so extensive though that I suspect only minor adjustments are possible.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2015
  18. dylanu

    dylanu New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2014
  19. albertm

    albertm Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2015
    Hi all,

    Long time reader - first time poster! I recently ordered my first MTM suit (tuxedo actually) from Indochino.com and I could really use the help of the experts in this forum [​IMG]

    What I'm hoping is that the experts here could provide their thoughts/opinions on the fit of the suit (I'll provide my thought at the end of this post)

    Without further ado - here's some photos:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    My thoughts are that the suit needs to be remade with the following alterations:

    Pants:
    - Rise: Increase the rise of the pants by 1"
    - Seat: Remove 1.5" from the seat of the pant


    Jacket:
    - Shoulder: Remove 1" from shoulder
    - Bicep: Remove 0.5" from bicep
    - Chest: Remove 1.5-2" from chest
    - Closure: Raise button closure by 2"
    - Length: Lengthen jacket by 1"


    The biggest trouble I have with the suit is really the jacket, it seems that there is just too much material around the chest area. In addition the shoulders seem a bit wide such that the shawl around the back of the neck has too much space (hard to tell this with open shirt collar).

    Look forward to hearing everyone's thoughts!
     
  20. jdrizzy

    jdrizzy Senior member

    Messages:
    2,776
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2013
    Location:
    Canada
    Not an expert but in gonna throw in some of my 2 cents.

    Collar when done up will look really bad as the shawl looks really far away. This will result in a heavy collar gap.

    The back could be cleaned up, but this is mainly because they cut the armholes too low. This is probably why it looks like you have huge lats and the excess fabrics.

    Biceps are too large.

    Lower button stance an inch? Looks a bit high

    Sleeve pitch looks okay

    Lengthen by maybe an inch or two(but thats all personal preference)

    Shoulders dont have very pronounced divots, but could probablt taken in .2 each side.

    Pants dont look too bad, maybe take in the seat a bit to clean up flaring.

    Again, im very novice at this, but those are my thoughts.

    Hope you didnt spend too much, as the alterations may cost a bit
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2015

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