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If the dart position crosses the break line it does two things.What is the purpose of a dart/cut under the lapel? I have quite a strong chest and a tailor recently said it might help the lapel lie flatter.
Creates shape to add fullness to cover your full chest.
Shortens the strap so the break line lays closer to your chest.
To be effective the dart should be made in the canvass not in the cloth only.
Variation is a hammer dart.
For an even fuller chest there is a dart placed parallel to the break line with a second dart placed along the dart at the fullest part of the chest.
Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate
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