The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

What is the purpose of a dart/cut under the lapel? I have quite a strong chest and a tailor recently said it might help the lapel lie flatter.

If the dart position crosses the break line it does two things.
Creates shape to add fullness to cover your full chest.
Shortens the strap so the break line lays closer to your chest.
To be effective the dart should be made in the canvass not in the cloth only.

Variation is a hammer dart.
For an even fuller chest there is a dart placed parallel to the break line with a second dart placed along the dart at the fullest part of the chest.

Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate

tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com

 

[g2x222]

Back with another suit, and I’ll probably have a few more this weekend…

Thoughts on jacket length?

I’m 5’6” with a ~31-32” inseam, and the jacket measures about 29” from the base of the collar. I feel like it’s a little long relative to my torso, but shortening the jacket to reflect my torso might make it look too small relatively to my body.

 

[Shetterd]

If the dart position crosses the break line it does two things.
Creates shape to add fullness to cover your full chest.
Shortens the strap so the break line lays closer to your chest.
To be effective the dart should be made in the canvass not in the cloth only.

Variation is a hammer dart.
For an even fuller chest there is a dart placed parallel to the break line with a second dart placed along the dart at the fullest part of the chest.

Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate

tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com

Thank you so much! That's really helpful.

 

[thrift_slouch]

Dear sartorial connoisseurs,

I require your superior minds and eyes!

I bought a vintage wool overcoat (I think 1920s!) on ebay a few winters back, and to take advantage of combined shipping also decided to take a blind shot on a bespoke suit.

It has since been confined to the closet, but I would like to give it new life.
The cut is far out of vogue, which I don't mind, but I would appreciate any insight on the fit and what a tailor can and cannot do to improve it!

 

[1up]

what is the issue with the right sleeve, causing it to be wrinkled and unclean like the left? Is it an easy fix?

My right shoulder is dropped which I’m sure contributes to it, attaching a pic without the jacket to show that.

Don’t mind the shoes, all the tailor had there.

And how do we clean up the wrinkling at the back? Is it taking out the waist of the jacket a bit?

 

[CasuallyWorked]

hello guys I would like some advice. I have these canvas natalino trousers that measure 15" across the waist. I gained some weight and would like to let out the waist to 16.5" would that be possible? Or would the old stitching holes be super obvious?

I also had another question is it better to buy pants in the correct waist and taper down, or buy the smaller pants and let the waist out? thank you for the help!

 

[eguk]

Hi,

I originally posted this in the style advice section but figured it might be better placed here...

This was my first time using the Propercloth MTM shirt service and was curious what you guys think about the resulting fit.

Note - I've used all my lives on this shirt (had it remade twice after the initial order, partly because the first fit advice I received from PC really overshot).

I've worn and laundered the shirt a few times at this point and I'm reasonably happy with how it looks, although I can't help thinking it could fit better.

I opted for back darts because I wanted a pretty slim fit (I personally don't like it when fabric billows above the trouser waistband) but I'm not 100% happy with the way the fabric falls at the back - I wonder if the horizontal lines suggest the shirt is riding up at the back (maybe too tight across the hips, causing the shirt to ride up?), although it looks OK from the front to me. Note, the shirt has a 2.7" drop (5.4" around) from chest to waist.

Do you folks think I've gone too narrow in the waist, or do you think it would be better to remove the darts altogether and let the shirt drape more freely at the back? I know removing the darts whilst keeping the same waist width will effectively move fabric from the front of the shirt to the back - so I'm not sure if this will make matters worse or not..

I would note that this is a relatively stiff/thick chambray fabric - perhaps a thinner/dressier fabric would drape better with this fit.. but I'm nervous to try before hearing your words of wisdom.

Thanks in advance for any constructive feedback you can offer up!

 

[Cayne-Abel]

New MTM suit just came in. Bringing it in for further tailoring this weekend. Constructive criticism welcome. I would say the jacket needs to be taken in significantly at the waist, at a minimum.

Just note that I wasn't wearing a belt in any of the photos except the one with my jacket off. So the pants were sagging a bit without the belt.

 

[camez_]

hello guys I would like some advice. I have these canvas natalino trousers that measure 15" across the waist. I gained some weight and would like to let out the waist to 16.5" would that be possible? Or would the old stitching holes be super obvious?

I also had another question is it better to buy pants in the correct waist and taper down, or buy the smaller pants and let the waist out? thank you for the help!

View attachment 2002921
View attachment 2002923

1. possible, shouldn't be recognizable after wash
2. larger size, take in waist or correct size, taper down - don't go from smaller to bigger

 

[AriGold]

New MTM suit. W.Bill 380gsm 100% linen.

Thinking it could’ve done with about 2cm more length in the jacket. Thoughts?

 

[camez_]

New MTM suit. W.Bill 380gsm 100% linen.

Thinking it could’ve done with about 2cm more length in the jacket. Thoughts?

View attachment 2005969 View attachment 2005971 View attachment 2005973

i'd say 5cm but ymmv

 

[1up]

what is the issue with the right sleeve, causing it to be wrinkled and unclean like the left? Is it an easy fix?


My right shoulder is dropped which I’m sure contributes to it, attaching a pic without the jacket to show that.

Don’t mind the shoes, all the tailor had there.

And how do we clean up the wrinkling at the back? Is it taking out the waist of the jacket a bit?

Bump! Trying to get final adjustments in.

 

[DorianGreen]

New MTM suit. W.Bill 380gsm 100% linen.

Thinking it could’ve done with about 2cm more length in the jacket. Thoughts?

View attachment 2005969 View attachment 2005971 View attachment 2005973

It looks good, but the jacket is definitely too short. @camez_ is right, 5cm longer would be perfect

 

[bernoulli]

New MTM suit. W.Bill 380gsm 100% linen.

Thinking it could’ve done with about 2cm more length in the jacket. Thoughts?

View attachment 2005969 View attachment 2005971 View attachment 2005973

Suit is great. It drapes well and the jacket looks well-balanced. Some people will prefer longer jackets. For me, it looks good as is.

 

[gimpwiz]

Thinking it could’ve done with about 2cm more length in the jacket. Thoughts?

Honestly, I think it's fine. I might prefer mine a bit longer and this is on the shorter side but it doesn't seem short to the point of being an issue. Keep it in mind for next time.