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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

plyonsla

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MTM suit from Oliver Wicks. Curious as to people’s thoughts on fit. Thank you!

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Despos

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Chest appears to be over generous with the drape.
Shoulder a bit wide.
Horizontal folds of cloth between the blades is from tension between shoulder blades. Correct adjustment is to work in more fullness on the back shoulder to put more cloth over the blades. Shrink the center back seam between the blades. If your tailor says he needs to lower the collar, don’t do it. You can see diagonal drag lines from the side seams upwards to center back. Lowering the collar will make this worse.
Sewing techniques for fitting prominent blades and a rounded back are part of the construction process in a tailor shop but not done in majority of MTM work.
 

Bersabee

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Hi, need some help with my Collaro trousers and how to solve them.

I brought them to the tailor as I needed to get major rise adjustments and these are how they turned out. Overall, the pants feel very comfortable but I am still having issues with my seat (still my best fitting pair despite the issues). Debating if I should just go bespoke but I am willing to give Collaro another shot.

My main concerns are the following:
  • Back Pockets are spreading open - I am not sure if this is due to the placement of the pockets. I had to let out some room at the hips as the front pockets were flaring. Assuming I place another order, I think these would be placed correctly and not be as open? Or should I just get buttons to keep them closed?
  • Front pockets flaring: Tried increasing hips but the pockets are still flaring a little. I am not too sure how to resolve this issues
  • Diagonal Lines on front of pants: Not too sure what causes this but assuming this is fixed, it will resolve my issue below
  • Weird bunching at front of pants (crotch level) where pleats meet the crease; creates a little bump or something

Presently planned adjustments:
  1. Increase length a touch
  2. Increase knee/calf width (~2inches? or more)
  3. Increase leg opening (~2 inches)
Any other recommended adjustments are welcome!!!
 

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Despos

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Hard to advise on this pair since they are altered by your tailor. Don't know what issues were on the original, unaltered fit and what may be caused by the alterations.

Adjustments on this pair are more about the way the pattern is shaped and not something you can adjust by changing measurements.

The length should be longer in the back than the front. Proper to make the back 1 or 1.25" longer than the front. There is no angle on the hem, doesn't look right.
Add 3/4" to the front and 2.5" to the back. Right leg needs more than this, it's shorter than the left. If you make the bottom circumference wider you need to make the trouser longer to balance the look.

The back pockets opening up are caused by the sewing/construction technique. Looks like these pockets were made by a machine and the pipes are too tight. If you don't use the back pockets, don't get back pockets. It's a cleaner look.
 
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Bersabee

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Hard to advise on this pair since they are altered by your tailor. Don't know what issues were on the original, unaltered fit and what may be caused by the alterations.

Adjustments on this pair are more about the way the pattern is shaped and not something you can adjust by changing measurements.

The length should be longer in the back than the front. Proper to make the back 1 or 1.25" longer than the front. There is no angle on the hem, doesn't look right.
Add 3/4" to the front and 2.5" to the back. Right leg needs more than this, it's shorter than the left. If you make the bottom circumference wider you need to make the trouser longer to balance the look.

The back pockets opening up are caused by the sewing/construction technique. Looks like these pockets were made by a machine and the pipes are too tight. If you don't use the back pockets, don't get back pockets. It's a cleaner look.
Thanks for the feedback. The original issue was the rise; there were some "moose knuckles" and the pants also felt like a wedgie.

Do you recommend I just go and get bespoke? These issues seem hard to address through an MTM service.
 

Jmr928

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Getting ready to do another remote commission as we work on dialing in my details. I know there are some things I see, there are some things my tailor sees but curious what you all see as we work on tweaks.

Apologies for the mediocre pictures - I tried to play around with lighting settings to get rid of some of the shadows/dark spots.
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khughes44

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New made to measure lambs wool trousers. The left leg is twisted about 45 degrees counter clockwise and the right about 30 degrees clockwise. The left leg is so bad that the inseam is almost on my shin. Any advice?
@Despos
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Despos

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@khughes44
Is this the first trouser with this maker or the first time to try forward/regular pleats?
 

khughes44

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@Despos
I had a pair of denim trousers made before this. The fit was okay, and we used them to make some sizing tweaks before we made the lambs wool. I also had the same lambs wool trousers made in blue and they behave the same way as the beige ones.
 

Despos

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Getting ready to do another remote commission as we work on dialing in my details. I know there are some things I see, there are some things my tailor sees but curious what you all see as we work on tweaks.

Apologies for the mediocre pictures - I tried to play around with lighting settings to get rid of some of the shadows/dark spots.
View attachment 1732973 View attachment 1732974 View attachment 1732975 View attachment 1732976 View attachment 1732977 View attachment 1732978 View attachment 1732979 View attachment 1732980
Is this custom or MTM? Discussing alterations; you will have more/better options if you are working with a tailor than a MTM firm.

The trouser looks like they altered the back by lowering the waistband to clean up fullness under the seat. If so, this is how most tailors approach the adjustment but it doesn't correct the issue properly because the issue is balance of how the front and back parts align. It's a pattern thing. If the pattern isn't correct, adjustments get you 75% of the way but doesn't override pattern flaws. The left side adjuster is pulled snug and causing more wrinkling than the other side. You may be higher on the right hip. Can't be sure because I suspect you raised the trouser higher for the pictures and they may not be settled to where you actually wear them. That may be the cause of all the wrinkles across the fly on the front view.
The waistband should be attached by pulling the band and putting fullness over the hips. This wasn't sewn that way and you see awkward wrinkles under the band over the hips.
See this all the time but I don't get the trouser length. Would look better resting just above the shoe or touching the shoe and the back part angled down, closer to the top of the heel.
Right and left legs are different lengths.
Your posture here shows sway back. Jacket needs a longer front. The back looks long and the front short but you only need to lengthen the fronts. Look at the side view, the back is lower and the hem slopes upward to the front. Adjusting this will help get rid of the wrinkles on the lower back.
The last picture indicates you do have a higher and larger right hip. You can see the hem line of the back part looks lower on the left and slopes upward to the right side. Raising the waistline and letting out over the hips will help.
The collar would fit better if it is higher on your neck. The side views shows it drops down at the center back, like it's pulling away.
Consult your tailor. All this is based on static pictures and may read differently in real life.
 

Despos

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New made to measure lambs wool trousers. The left leg is twisted about 45 degrees counter clockwise and the right about 30 degrees clockwise. The left leg is so bad that the inseam is almost on my shin. Any advice?
@Despos View attachment 1734690 View attachment 1734691 View attachment 1734692 View attachment 1734693
This happens with some regular/forward pleat patterns. Forward pleats are difficult to fit well. The way this maker creates the pattern may not be right for you. It's all about the pattern and the drape here is something you cannot change without changing the pattern.
Never heard of a lambswool trouser cloth. There doesn't seem to be much body to this cloth. Cloth appears to be too soft to use for trousers. Would confirm with the maker or whoever makes the cloth. The crease is is lost wherever there is stress on the crease.
Have you tried reverse pleats? They may work with your body type better. This never occurs with reverse pleats.

@khughes44
few more thoughts. Look at pictures of forward/regular pleats and you see variations of where the pleat is placed and meets the waistband. Some pleats are closer to the fly and the pleats drape like ( ). Your trouser the pleats are farther from the fly.
If you are set on having forward pleats you have to find the cut/pattern that works for you.
If you are doing MTM you want to find the maker with a better pattern that works for you.
If you work with a tailor he has to figure out how to draft for your body type.
Some body types aren't compatible with regular pleats.
 
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stubbsj20

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Can someone please tell me if the collapsing that I am experiencing along the front of both biceps is something that can be fixed by a tailor or if I would be better off buying a different jacket? Is it caused by the pitch of the jacket sleeves? I apologize about the mirror taken photos.
 

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Despos

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Can someone please tell me if the collapsing that I am experiencing along the front of both biceps is something that can be fixed by a tailor or if I would be better off buying a different jacket? Is it caused by the pitch of the jacket sleeves? I apologize about the mirror taken photos.
Yes, it's a sleeve pitch issue. Wrinkles in front like this means the sleeve is pitched to the back and needs to rotate the sleeve head back to move the sleeve forward.
Do the opposite for wrinkles on the back of the sleeve.
 

stubbsj20

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Yes, it's a sleeve pitch issue. Wrinkles in front like this means the sleeve is pitched to the back and needs to rotate the sleeve head back to move the sleeve forward.
Do the opposite for wrinkles on the back of the sleeve.
Thank you for the quick response! Is this an easily addressable issue or is it major surgery? This is a floating canvas jacket. Not sure if that makes a difference.
 

Despos

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Thank you for the quick response! Is this an easily addressable issue or is it major surgery? This is a floating canvas jacket. Not sure if that makes a difference.
First difficulty doing this alteration is finding someone who understands what needs to be done and knows how to set sleeves. Sleeves are more difficult than other parts of making a jacket. Sleeves will be removed and put on again in the new position. 3-4 hours of work for a good tailor.
 

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