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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Thingamajig

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Dear guys I would like some feedback on the fit of these sport coats and advice on what to do differently next time. These were all altered already since they did not fit at all beforehands. All were second hand from my dad.

My own biggest concern is the lapels. They seem off and I cannot say with certainty if this is due to the jacket being too small or too big at which specific areas. They were all taken in around the waist quite a bit.

I also notice the pulling in the back which might just be the result of asymmetry.

The navy blue one seems to fit best, it is also the one with the smallest chest (56cm instead of 58cm self measured).

They are all quite similar around the shoulders (~49-50cm straight across).

Any advice and feedback is welcome. I am still building my wardrobe.
These look, at least in my opinion, worse on those pictures than when I actually wear them. I quite enjoy wearing all of them knowing they are imperfect but considering my physique it sure is difficult to find a "perfect" fit.
Your left shoulder is dropped more than your right, causing the back to look that way. The lapel width is ok, but I am not sure if that is what you were referring to. The style however is quite uncommon, perhaps due to it coming from another era. The gorge line is quite low, and the collar is quite large, and at quite an acute angle in relation to the lapel, was the norm in suits from the 80's or 90's.

The jacket is too small for you, causing a myriad of problems which could be remedied by just sizing up, there are so many problems that typing it all out take too long, so just sizing will be better.
 

Thingamajig

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(Gonna bump this just a little :) )

Also i just found out that the problem goes away when i only button the top button of those sport coats. Of course this looks weird in total, but they drape much more nicely and the lapels do not diverge as much. I am still mainly looking for the reason why this is, whether it is too big or too tight at which area. Or is it the button stance?

All those sport coats are 3-roll 2 half canvassed. And all look better when unbuttoned... This is very frustrating.
It would seem to me then that either they were cut to be only buttoned at the top, but since I do not know the brand or the initial style they were meant to be worn, I cannot comment too much on this.
 

Thingamajig

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I'd like to have this sleeve lengthened by just a cm or so, maybe 1.5. Went to 2 different tailor's, both said it isn't possible after seeing the inner stiching pictured below. Is there any chance of lengthening it? Why is it not doable, the diagonal stitch?
View attachment 1721311
There is no chance of lengthening it IF the seam inside has been cut. But usually it is cut since one of the major benefits in doing this diagonal stitch is that it makes for a less bulky cuff since all the excess fabric and inlays have been cut off. If multiple tailors said that it cannot be altered, I would assume that they have felt the cuff and found no excess fabric inside, in which case, you are out of luck.
 

BB_Adept

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Your left shoulder is dropped more than your right, causing the back to look that way. The lapel width is ok, but I am not sure if that is what you were referring to. The style however is quite uncommon, perhaps due to it coming from another era. The gorge line is quite low, and the collar is quite large, and at quite an acute angle in relation to the lapel, was the norm in suits from the 80's or 90's.

The jacket is too small for you, causing a myriad of problems which could be remedied by just sizing up, there are so many problems that typing it all out take too long, so just sizing will be better.
Thank you! Since these were some 2nd hand jackets from my father which he gave to me when I got into menswear and did not own a single sport coat on my own I do not much mind the criticism. I was thankful regardless because they gave me the opportunity to wear a sport coat every now and then. As for the age, I have no idea how old they are. Probably around 10-15 years but lightly worn. I myself purchased one mtm sport coat for my wedding which came out quite nicely, albeit not perfect, but which in retrospective is a bit too flashy to wear more than occasionally because it has this "oh, he is wearing this one again" vibe.
 

Colrais

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I can't really tell the nature of the shoulder divots cuz the picture quality isn't the best and it is a dark jacket, but usually is caused by not having enough space in the back. A picture from the back would be helpful.

The lapel bends might be for a couple of reasons since your chest is pretty large, you either need a hammer dart or the roll line isn't long enough.

One thing to definitely do is to lower the neck line on the back panel of your next jacket, there is very unsightly excess fabric there. As for the skirt flare, it is up to personal preference, but I find it helps accentuate the waist in all my clients.
Thank you! I have to reconsider whether alterations can satisfy me, since Poszetka is now out-of-stock.

Enclosing some more photos with better lighting, as you suggested. Does the back seem tight? Divots haven't disappeared but at certain angles are not so obtrusive.

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Thingamajig

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Thank you! I have to reconsider whether alterations can satisfy me, since Poszetka is now out-of-stock.

Enclosing some more photos with better lighting, as you suggested. Does the back seem tight? Divots haven't disappeared but at certain angles are not so obtrusive.

Yep, even from the pictures, there seem to be quite a bit of tension across the shoulder blades, hence causing the divots.
 

Despos

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Thank you! I have to reconsider whether alterations can satisfy me, since Poszetka is now out-of-stock.

Enclosing some more photos with better lighting, as you suggested. Does the back seem tight? Divots haven't disappeared but at certain angles are not so obtrusive.

Try a bigger size. Velvet cannot be let out without leaving marks of the previous stitching and maybe some damage to the nap. You want a bigger size and reduce if needed but not let out.
JefferyD has shown pictures of the divots going away after giving more room across the back. Not always, but some of the time.

Lower your expectations of fit due to the nature of velvet. It won't drape or shape like wool.

Are you concerned about the indentations on the top of the sleeve cap? If so, that is a sleeve issue. Not shoulder divots. Call it a shoulder issue if it is along the seam of the shoulder from the collar to the sleeve. Pet peeve of mine to not use correct terminology. You need to know correct terminology to communicate well with your tailor or whoever is making or selling to you.
 

Colrais

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Thank you, @Despos . Appreciate your experience and sound advice. This is my first time with velvet, so there's much for me to learn.

Yes, the sleeve issue bothers most. I'll speak to my tailor about reducing from a bigger size.
 
Last edited:

bernoulli

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I am very happy with the fit of the suit overall. There is some excess fabric on the right side of the chest but that is not a major issue, in my opinion. Given there are pretty knowledgeable people here, is there anything else I should ask to be adjusted for a future commission, other than the aforementioned excess fabric issue?
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BB_Adept

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Hey forum.

The blue sport coat is a 46R in merino wool from s&m. I think I will return it because it is too big.
Does anyone think it could be fixed by altering or is it just too big? The shoulders feel comfy though.

As for the brown checked sport coat, a 44R in a linen/wool mix, I already decided I will keep it (even though it is not perfect of course). The sleeves need to be shortened (which I expected). Does it need any more alterations? From the side it looks weird around my belly but when I wear it it's OK to me.

Looking for feedback regarding both sport coats and general sizing in S&M sport coats for future orders.

The quality of pictures could be better, do excuse my wife's poor photography skills.
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Aloysius16

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44R coat looks pretty good to my (non-tailor) eyes. You have very short arms/long torso so will shorten the sleeves. The vents don’t lie flat but I suspect that is because of a prominent seat rather than the side seams needing to be let out (unless the waist feels tight)
 

MrFingers

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I always have troubles with trousers so I got a pair MTM from collaro but still have some issues. The pair was based off a rtw pair from spier&mackay which fits ok but not great. This one is much higher rise and a lot more forgiving in the thighs. However, the excess fabric creates the awkward look on the back. I’m not sure I’ll be able to nail down a okay fit unless I go bespoke or MTM in person (issue is, I don’t have any good local places unless it’s suitsupply but I’m no not sure they would be able to do a better job). I’d love to hear peoples opinions or thoughts/recommendations!
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breakaway01

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I always have troubles with trousers so I got a pair MTM from collaro but still have some issues. The pair was based off a rtw pair from spier&mackay which fits ok but not great. This one is much higher rise and a lot more forgiving in the thighs. However, the excess fabric creates the awkward look on the back. I’m not sure I’ll be able to nail down a okay fit unless I go bespoke or MTM in person (issue is, I don’t have any good local places unless it’s suitsupply but I’m no not sure they would be able to do a better job). I’d love to hear peoples opinions or thoughts/recommendations! View attachment 1726436
Not a tailor but the right side doesn’t look bad. What is going on with the cuff on your left leg—did you roll it up and if so why? I’d press the trousers properly (trouser crease shouldn’t extend up into the seat, for example), let the left leg hang the way it should, and take another set of photos.
 

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