The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[a tailor]



the center back seam...
there seems to be a bigger "gap" between the pinstripes down the center back seam
was this suit jacket let out from the center?
and to "fix" it... is it just a matter of taking it in down the seam to close the gap between the stripes?

the cloth is woven with stripes in a straight line. looking squarely at the back, the center seam is a straight line.
but if you would look at the back pattern, you would see that the seam line at the center back is a double curve.
there is a small curve at the top and a strong curve at the waist. that spells cut off stripes.

 

[comrade]



I got this SC made last year and got it without front darts. I didnt like it from the beginning, found it too boxy and am thinking of junking it.
The problems to my mind are
a. roll - It rolls like a 3 roll 2.5 but it is a 2 button. Basically, the lapel roll breaks too high for my taste. I am thinking of getting a third buttonhole done so that I can imagine it to be 3 roll 2.5.
b. Quarters - Look too closed to me now, must be SF groupthink. I am thinking of taking it to the tailor for getting the quarters recut from the lower button down.
What do you think ? Does it look too boxy ? Any general comments, suggestions, criticism ...
Thanks for your help

Looks great without the darts

 

[CosmeDaniel]

I'd be interested to hear some feedback on this jacket. (Please ignore the poorly pressed collar).

Specifically:
I've realized, thanks to this jacket, that one of my shoulders hangs lower than the other.

I personally feel as though the jacket is too long. Providing there's no strong objection from those providing feedback (and my tailor), I am considering shortening it by an inch (or two?).

I was thinking that the shoulders were too long, but would be interested to hear everyones' thoughts. I have access to a great tailor but fear that the cost may be excessive if this is a major issue.

Thanks in advance.

Front:

yes this one will cost $$$$.
shoulders too wide, back too long at the top.
right shoulder low.

I picked my jacket up from the tailor's shop. They took in the shoulders, added shoulder padding, took in the back, and shortened the length of the jacket. I think I would have preferred the jacket to be about an inch longer (in retrospect) but my tailor convinced me otherwise. May not be perfect but I think it's a vast improvement.

 

[Nicola]

You've out grown that jacket.

 

[Despos]

Would have been better to put the money towards a better fit in the collar and shoulders than shorten the jacket. The original length was good, fixing the shoulders would have brought it up enough, now it's too short.

 

[Despos]

Could I have opinion on this from one of the experts ? Thanks

I got this SC made last year and got it without front darts. I didnt like it from the beginning, found it too boxy and am thinking of junking it.
The problems to my mind are
a. roll - It rolls like a 3 roll 2.5 but it is a 2 button. Basically, the lapel roll breaks too high for my taste. I am thinking of getting a third buttonhole done so that I can imagine it to be 3 roll 2.5.
b. Quarters - Look too closed to me now, must be SF groupthink. I am thinking of taking it to the tailor for getting the quarters recut from the lower button down.
What do you think ? Does it look too boxy ? Any general comments, suggestions, criticism ...
Thanks for your help

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

The body looks OK, it's the convex shape of the shoulder that makes you look bulky to my eye. If you can convince your tailor to do it, he can still make the front dart because the jacket has patch pockets. Not easy but not that difficult either. Do you really think that is what the jacket needs to look less boxy?

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



I picked my jacket up from the tailor's shop. They took in the shoulders, added shoulder padding, took in the back, and shortened the length of the jacket. I think I would have preferred the jacket to be about an inch longer (in retrospect) but my tailor convinced me otherwise. May not be perfect but I think it's a vast improvement.

The length was fine before. Now it looks like a women's jacket. I also have no idea why you added shoulder padding, the shoulders now look extremely square.

 

[aj_del]



Looks great without the darts

The body looks OK, it's the convex shape of the shoulder that makes you look bulky to my eye. If you can convince your tailor to do it, he can still make the front dart because the jacket has patch pockets. Not easy but not that difficult either. Do you really think that is what the jacket needs to look less boxy?

Thank you for your comments.

Mr Despos, could you elaborate on the convex shape of the shoulders bit. I think it is my shoulder bone sticking out. I dont want to get darts at this stage. It just feels bulky to me to look at maybe because I am brainwashed by SF style 'open quarters'. I think the jacket is too closed at the bottom. Also, I would a slightly shorter length for a SC. Thirdly, I dont like the shape of the lapels for a 2 button. I intend to get a third buttonhole made as I think this lapel roll would look better with a 3 button.

Here is another pic of the SC.

My experiment with dartless jackets. Never liked it, always felt too boxy and the 'quarter's too closed and length is also a bit (exactly 1" ) long for my liking for a SC.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[Zarium]

Hello!

I've been lurking for a short while before I finally registered.

I'm getting a suit tailored, and today was the first fitting session - I have only one concern right now; having already specified everything else I wanted changed to the tailor when I was there.

Lapel width. For someone of my build, would the current lapels be a bit too wide as to make it look disproportionate? The lapels are 3.5" wide in the photo.

I asked for wider lapels as I'm not very fond of the whole slim lapels being fashion forward and "trendy" thing - I'd rather go for the timeless look.

One thing I'm unsure of is whether the current lapel width will cover part of the breast pocket, and whether or not it should do so.

Please provide opinions on whether the lapels should be kept this wide or be slimmer; based on what would work best with my build and how it should complement my shoulders/size of head. I'll take them into consideration and then make a phone call tomorrow if a change is necessary. Thanks!

 

[sugarbutch]



It just feels bulky to me to look at maybe because I am brainwashed by SF style 'open quarters'. I think the jacket is too closed at the bottom.

Those quarters are far from closed, at least in the shots you've posted.

 

[nexus]



Could I have opinion on this from one of the experts ? Thanks

I realize you are looking for an expert - I'm not a tailor - but personally I like the lapels as they are. You are super slim and I wouldn't typically like a DB suit on a guy with your build, but if you're going to wear a "big" suit my general feeling is that you should keep the "big" elements. Its a suit that is going to get noticed (for better or for worse) so I think it demands a traditional lapel. A skinny lapel on a DB suit on a skinny dude is just too cliched (and likely to be out of fashion in a year) for my tastes.

 

[XKxRome0ox]



:foo: junior?


the shoulders on that db jacket + the rest of the cut is making you look like a total rectangle

 

[CosmeDaniel]

Would have been better to put the money towards a better fit in the collar and shoulders than shorten the jacket. The original length was good, fixing the shoulders would have brought it up enough, now it's too short.

The length was fine before. Now it looks like a women's jacket. I also have no idea why you added shoulder padding, the shoulders now look extremely square.

I appreciate the feedback.

The suit was MTM as my sizing (approx. 5'4" and 115 lbs) severely limits the availability out there. My fiance provided the measurements I submitted to the suit maker and clearly they were a bit off. Had I purchased this off the rack, I would've returned it rather than had a local tailor make the alterations. The amount I was quoted was reasonable and I figured it wouldn't be a total loss.

As I said, I would have preferred (in retrospect) the jacket to not have been shortened as much as it was, but I let my tailor do as he thought would work best with my frame, stature, and age.

I have one shoulder that has a drastic drop (droop?) and hence the addition of the minimal padding. It may not be as evident in the photos, but everyone commented on how much of an improvement there was in the before/after.

I agree that the overall end result is far from perfect but I'm 26 and work in a fairly casual office setting (I could count the number of times each of my male peers have worn a suit to work on one hand). My tailor does create true bespoke suits but until I can muster up the courage to provide him with the asking price of $2,200, I'll stick to incrementally improving my wardrobe and learning from my mistakes.

Thanks for the input.

 

[sugarbutch]

If the jacket length was at the tailor's suggestion, I would be extremely hesitant to trust him with $2200 of my hard-earned coin.

 

[sugarbutch]

Okay, it's not so hard-earned, but you understand what I'm saying.