The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Dingusberry]

Hi guys!

So, I just received my sports coat from Suit Supply, which also is my first sport coat ever. I'm just 18, so I have a long way to go.
I know that I need to shorten my sleeves, but not how much. I am also not sure about the length, is the jacket too long? Is there anything else I need to fix, or should I return the jacket because it's too big?

Thanks!








Edit: My thighs look super skinny in these pictures, it may be the angle. I'm usually not that skinny (I think).

 

[TM79]

It's tough to tell from the camera angle. Put the jacket on and put your arms straight down to your side, fingers extended and pointed straight at the floor.

The general rule is that if the jacket ends between the tip of your thumb and base of your thumb then you're good to go provided it fits well everywhere else on you.

 

[mrjester]

I may be wrong but I think that may be too big on you. The shoulders are too wide. You're not supposed to have the creases on the very top of your sleeves just below the shoulders. scroll up to mine for a blazer that fits well in the shoulders.

eta: Plus one on camera angle. Get new pics from chest level a decent distance away. 15 feet maybe.

 

[othertravel]

I think the shoulders are fine. Length is ok; if you want, you can probably shorten it by a quarter inch without throwing off the balance too much.

 

[Dingusberry]

Thanks for replying!






Is it okay now? The pictures were taken from chest angle. I would also say that this is the smallest size among RTW-makers, and almost every jacket have either too wide shoulders or too long sleeves.

 

[mrjester]

Pics are better. I'm not the tailor and nor is othertravel but I'd bet money you'll get a "Return it, it's too big for you." Looks like you're in your big brothers sports coat. Sorry man.

 

[Flyswatter]



When taking in a jacket for waist supression (double vented) do they take it in on the sides that run up from the vents? That's where they marked mine yesterday and I was a little suspicious about it but was too puss to say anything.. I can call now and tell them to not touch it or change which seams they alter if need be.

Whenever I've had jacket waists taken in, it's always been at the location you indicated. You really should speak up though if you are unclear or unhappy with something a tailor is doing!

Thanks for replying!

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Is it okay now? The pictures were taken from chest angle. I would also say that this is the smallest size among RTW-makers, and almost every jacket have either too wide shoulders or too long sleeves.

Other than the sleeves being too long, the overall fit doesn't look too bad with the exception of the shoulder divots as jester indicated. Those would be a deal breaker for me, especially the right shoulder. Don't even bother attempting to fix it with tailoring. I'd return it.

 

[Dingusberry]

Pics are better. I'm not the tailor and nor is othertravel but I'd bet money you'll get a "Return it, it's too big for you." Looks like you're in your big brothers sports coat. Sorry man.

Is the jacket so large that it can't be fixed by a tailor?

 

[mrjester]

Fly - I know. I should have spoke up more.
Dingus - Yes, the shoulders can not be fixed. If a jacket doesn't fit you in the shoulders, it's no good. You need to size down one.

 

[TM79]



Is the jacket so large that it can't be fixed by a tailor?

Almost every time you try to make shoulder alterations you're asking for trouble - it's hard work and can be costly.

I wouldn't recommend it. Just return this one for store credit and try on lots more stuff until you find a better fit.

I'm not sure if the Washington cut is the slimmest model SS carries but a lot of people here know quite a bit about SuitSupply at this point and it even has its own thread. If you're set on buying from them, hop over to that thread and ask a few questions to get better answers.

 

[mrjester]

What we're getting at is it's really your fault that you're so small. So x small.

Kidding. But you know for a fact this is the smallest they carry? What size is it?

 

[Dingusberry]

Couldn't it be the shirt, underneath, that makes the wrinkles? Because when I wear it nude, it seems like there are less (or none) wrinkles around the shoulders. Am I right, or is this just a placebo?




Edit2: Anothing about my shoulders. My shoulders are placed where I have marked it at the picture below. Is this why the shoulders are too big? The red area is where my shoulders are compared to the green area, where it's just an empty bubble.

What we're getting at is it's really your fault that you're so small. So x small.

Kidding. But you know for a fact this is the smallest they carry? What size is it?

Yup, it's my fault. I'm on gaining diet right now, hoping to gain weight to fit in sports coats and suits.
It's a size 44R(EU)/34(US), which is the smallest size. The shoulders have also more padding than any other jackets from SS.

Edit: Is it also possible to make the shoulders fit if I gain weight and increase my shoulders by working out?

Almost every time you try to make shoulder alterations you're asking for trouble - it's hard work and can be costly.

I wouldn't recommend it. Just return this one for store credit and try on lots more stuff until you find a better fit.

I'm not sure if the Washington cut is the slimmest model SS carries but a lot of people here know quite a bit about SuitSupply at this point and it even has its own thread. If you're set on buying from them, hop over to that thread and ask a few questions to get better answers.

I understand. I have tried the SS thread, but they weren't very helpful like you guys.

 

[kulata]



Is the jacket so large that it can't be fixed by a tailor?

it's not that the jacket is too big for you, it's the way the shoulder is cut. The arm syce or whatever is called needs to be lowered and the sleeve piece re-cut. That is what I read from one of the in house tailors here. Expensive and extensive alteration imo.

 

[mrjester]

You shouldn't wear jackets like that. Like the advice I got above, wear them like you would out in the world. Shirt and tie. And with a shirt and tie, and standing like you would in 'real life' (not like you would in a military school) you're going to have those marks.

Pressing your arms firmly to your sides as to remove the wrinkles is more like lying than fixing the issue. They're there and unfortuantely they won't go away. Sorry bud.

I see SuitSupply sells 32r's.. get a 32r.

 

[OTCtailor]



[ATTACHMENT=6594]Blue MTM edited.JPG (535k. JPG file)[/ATTACHMENT]
[ATTACHMENT=6595]Grey OTR edited.JPG (566k. JPG file)[/ATTACHMENT]

Hello gentlemen.

Please pardon the photo quality in advance. I am not really a photo enthusiast (Read: I lack the SLR Pro and Tripod) and I don't really have friends I am comfortable asking for a small fashion photoshoot (maybe I need different friends haha?). My question only concerns the button stance on a RLBL MTM commission that I had made for the MTM even (i.e. same cost as OTR). My jacket came in with a higher button stance than requested and I have been offered to do one of the following:

-Keep the jacket I have (I am not sure if it actually may look better than the lower button stance b/c my chest is about as wide as my hips)
-Change the jacket for an OTR model in the same cloth (first time trying the MTM with them so purposely tried a fabric so I could swap it if this happened)
-Get the jacket recut with a lower button stance (I am a bit concerned that a) it will take forever b) they will mess something else up since they'll give me another block pattern that may not fit me as well)

Any thoughts? Is my lower body relevant to decide this? I'll bite the bullet and just ask someone to take a pic if so.
Look forward to your thoughts and any recommendation for an alterations tailor in Manhattan or Brooklyn that can take a look in person as I think I'd prefer that but have no idea who I'd go to. I have read the recommendations for pepino and have gone to wilfred (ruined pants for me) but I don't have the kind of cash it takes to mess up a suit and chalk it up to a data point on my suiting experience so if anyone has someone that's reliable and not against a younger slimmer fit I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks in advance for the pearls of wisdom/suggestions.

Jcep

Not great pics but button stance looks ok. any lower and it could wreck proportional balance. It's not aggressively high anyway. FYI I will be in NYC on the 20th if you can wait that long.