The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Well that's up to you. I'm just letting you know that the procedure to shorten working cuff sleeves from the shoulder is risky period...very risky when done beyond 1". If you've had it done before by a good tailor and you're happy with the result, then by all means do proceed. If you have only had sleeves shortened from the hem and you're unsure of the tailor's skill, I'd proceed with caution. Also, if the sleeves are that long, are you sure the jacket is the right length? Usually a maker who makes working cuff sleeves on RTW jackets is pretty confident in their measurements/cuts. You see this with Tom Ford.
     


  2. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The back of the jacket may need work. Too hard to tell with the way you've taken the pics. FYI, the posing isn't necessary...it only distorts what a tailor needs to see to comment on fit. Check the first post in the whole thread for instructions on how to post proper pics. It's for your best interest. Also, I don't think the shirt sleeves are too long. I think they're too loose which makes them appear too long. They should fall just below the break in your wrist right onto the base of your thumb. There should be a bit of blousing in the sleeve so that when you extend your arm, say, to talk on the phone you can still show the appropriate amount of cuff. This is a Flusser-ism...and it makes sense.
     


  3. GastonSharp

    GastonSharp Member

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    I think your jacket lenght is fine...rule is it should be around the base of your thumb so that's fine. you should have it take in at the waist to enhance the shape of your body...the shirt though (not sure if you are asking opinions on that as well) but you should get a custom shirt..you are a fairly fit guy..it's too bad to wear a shirt that makes you look overweight
     


  4. lychyrychy

    lychyrychy Senior member

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    Needs better pictures. Put a tie on or button top button to test for collar gap. pants too long unless its your personal preference.
     


  5. michaelyork

    michaelyork Senior member

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    Yeah, you're right, the shirt is too big. I should try sizing down and then taking in the torso.

    pants aren't hemmed...i'll post a proper pic, with tie, accessories, etc. once i take all the basting threads off the suit. thanks.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2013


  6. jcep

    jcep Senior member

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    [ATTACHMENT=6594]Blue MTM edited.JPG (535k. JPG file)[/ATTACHMENT]
    [ATTACHMENT=6595]Grey OTR edited.JPG (566k. JPG file)[/ATTACHMENT]
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    Hello gentlemen.

    Please pardon the photo quality in advance. I am not really a photo enthusiast (Read: I lack the SLR Pro and Tripod) and I don't really have friends I am comfortable asking for a small fashion photoshoot (maybe I need different friends haha?). My question only concerns the button stance on a RLBL MTM commission that I had made for the MTM even (i.e. same cost as OTR). My jacket came in with a higher button stance than requested and I have been offered to do one of the following:

    -Keep the jacket I have (I am not sure if it actually may look better than the lower button stance b/c my chest is about as wide as my hips)
    -Change the jacket for an OTR model in the same cloth (first time trying the MTM with them so purposely tried a fabric so I could swap it if this happened)
    -Get the jacket recut with a lower button stance (I am a bit concerned that a) it will take forever b) they will mess something else up since they'll give me another block pattern that may not fit me as well)

    Any thoughts? Is my lower body relevant to decide this? I'll bite the bullet and just ask someone to take a pic if so.
    Look forward to your thoughts and any recommendation for an alterations tailor in Manhattan or Brooklyn that can take a look in person as I think I'd prefer that but have no idea who I'd go to. I have read the recommendations for pepino and have gone to wilfred (ruined pants for me) but I don't have the kind of cash it takes to mess up a suit and chalk it up to a data point on my suiting experience so if anyone has someone that's reliable and not against a younger slimmer fit I'd greatly appreciate it.
    Thanks in advance for the pearls of wisdom/suggestions.

    Jcep
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2013


  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    jcep: We can't pardon the photo quality because the critique you seek depends utterly on their quality. Please go back to the first post in the thread for guidelines on picture taking, and then get someone to take pictures in the prescribed poses.
     


  8. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    Recent Kent Wang MTM suit:

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    Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the fit, but I welcome other opinions and suggestions for possible tailoring to this suit as well as adjustments to future MTM suits.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2013


  9. jcep

    jcep Senior member

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    Completely understand Sugarbutch. It makes sense. Would it be possible for you or maybe some of the other members (ideally Despos, Jeffrey, or OTC tailor ) to recommend someone in Manhattan or Brooklyn that could look at this in person? I have gone to Wilfred and the guys at the Tailoring Room but the former messed up a garment irreparably and the latter is more for simpler stuff so I guess I'm looking for someone with equivalent skills to the tailors on this thread. Any ideas? I did use the search function but it seems to me that maybe someone comparable in skill would be a bespoke suitmaker and since I'm not a customer I'm not sure if he or she would take the time to see me.

    Any thoughts sugarbutch or anyone else?
     


  10. jcep

    jcep Senior member

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    Edited (wrong pics)
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2013


  11. jcep

    jcep Senior member

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    Will this do? ( blue is MTM grey is OTR)

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    Last edited: Jun 11, 2013


  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I'm in San Francisco, so I can't recommend anyone.
     


  13. jcep

    jcep Senior member

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    No worries Sugarbutch. Appreciate the response, hopefully some of the other members can help or I can go to one of the alterations tailors here in NY (or back to ralph lauren even) with some instructions to serve as guidance.
     


  14. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    When taking in a jacket for waist supression (double vented) do they take it in on the sides that run up from the vents? That's where they marked mine yesterday and I was a little suspicious about it but was too puss to say anything.. I can call now and tell them to not touch it or change which seams they alter if need be.
     


  15. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    Red lines are where he marked it. This is not my jacket. The below one is though. I was going for maybe .5" total suppression but he marked more than that..

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2013


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