The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[clee1982]



Question to the tailors-

I dropped a jacket for alteration at a tailor I have never used before. This tailor has very good reputation in Sydney.
They way he measured me and pinned the jacket is completely different to my other tailor. He only used 1 pin each sides and 1 pin each sleeves and just used chalk mark for sleeve length . Other tailor would use 3/4 pins each sides few pins on the center back seam and 3 pins on each sides of sleeve and 1 pin for shortening of the sleeves and 1 extra pin at the end of the sleeves for that perfect tapering.
Now I am just worried this new tailor may not to able to alter the jacket to my liking as he simply didn't take enough measurements. I am a stick (36 chest with 27 waist) and I need some serious alteration for a jacket to fit perfectly. He seemed like against a slim fully fitted look ! Can anyone shed any light on what is best way to mark a jacket for alteration.

Also I am 5'9.5" and most of my jackets are 29" to 30" this jacket is 30.2". And I feel it looks 1/2 inch too long. What is the perfect length jacket for guys at my height ?
I was wearing a jacket today that was 29" and the tailor said my jacket should've been 30" minimum.

Thanks in advance.

well, need to see the result to be able to tell. There is no perfect length, it's more of a personal preference without disturb the front balance (especially relative to the pocket). I am 5'7" and I like my jacket (BOC) to be at least 29", BBBF or Thomas Brown would have it shorter, but I personally don't like it.

 

[guyute82]

First Black Lapel suit. Excellent construction and details. Fit has some issues though. Keep in mind I am 6' and 148lbs.

What are people's impressions of fit, and of my alterations? I know this one needs work - see my comments below.

My thoughts on what's needed:

Jacket
Shoulders - Minus .75 inches (right now they hang over my natural shoulders a decent amount - see exaggerated "V" shape in the shot from behind)
Chest - Minus .5 inches (back shot shows billowing)
Waist - Plus .75 inches (right now it's much too supressed)
Hips - Plus .5 inches
Sleeves - Minus .5 inches (right now I show no cuff on a shirt I consider well fitting)

Pants
Length - Plus .75 inches
Waist - Plus 1 inch (much too tight)
Rise - Plus .75 inches (too tight in the seat)

 

[Pembers]

This may be completely the wrong thread, but this doesn't deserve it's own and I can't think where would be better.

A man I met today was wearing a very nice suit, the trousers of which had a split of about an inch on each outside seam at the bottom (the trousers were uncuffed). A bit like tracksuit bottoms with the side-zips undone a little bit.

I would assume this is something traditional, since the suit looked bespoke (looked Anderson & Sheppard to be precise) and he is an Old Etonian QC in his sixties. But I had never seen this before, and am wondering about it. Anyone have any knowledge of this?

 

[aglose]

This isn't a fit related topic so to speak but what is the possibility of pants being taken from a 35 to a 33? Would it look too awful for it to even be done?

 

[chrishhh]

Thanks guys for the helpful responses. The back *was* definitely a mess -- but as a recent grad, I was maybe a little too excited about its cheapness (especially after throwing down some $$ on a non-messed up, nice suit).

Anyway, thanks again -- I think I'll stick with the store-bought stuff from here-on-out, rather than the Salvation Army stuff

 

[mrklein]

Hey everyone,

I am on a quest to find a perfect fitting suit, but as this is my first made-to-measure experience I thought I would come to the experts as I'm not 100% sure how a suit should look and feel for myself yet!

I recently purchased this 3 piece suit and shirt from thesftailor.com taking a chance with them as they didn't seem to have many reviews. I am looking for feedback on the fit, especially with the jacket and vest, the pants and shirt seem to be pretty much perfect to me (although I don't have that much experience). The vest seems to be somewhat looser fitting all around than I had intended, so I had to use the adjustment belt in the back to pull it in pretty tight causing a big poof in the back (not as much of a problem with the jacket on but if I want to wear it with it off then it's kind of annoying). The jacket waist is also somewhat more roomy than I had intended but not in a bad way, I think it's fairly comfortable and still looks good.

Please let me know if there is anything you would alter and in what way as the company offers some credit for tailoring if I get it done relatively soon. For the most part I'm very pleased with it!

Thanks,
Mr. Klein

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Hey everyone,

I am on a quest to find a prefect fitting suit.

Welcome to Style Forum, enjoy your stay!

 

[mrklein]

Welcome to Style Forum, enjoy your stay!

Thanks! How could I not enjoy it here haha

 

[pendragon]

I'm not an expert, but that looks okay to me. The shoulders are a little more structured than I like, but they give it some authority. The right sleeve might be a little short.

 

[CalGuy13]

Here's some photos of my new Brooks Brothers Madison suit (it's the more modern model, with side vents and plain front pants). It's a 40R, which I thought would work since I tried on a 40R Madison in a BB store, but I think I may need to step up to a 41R. The waist feels a bit tight.*

Some notes:

• My shirt sleeves are too long, so don't judge the length of the coat's sleeves in comparison to the shirt alone.
• I took the photos on my roof because of poor lighting inside, but the angles made the photos pretty dark. I attempted to brighten the photos a bit.
• The pants are currently pretty tight. I could fasten them, but only just barely. Letting them out an inch will probably be sufficient.

Let me know if this is worth keeping, or if I should exchange it for a 41R. If I should keep it, what alterations does it need?

Thanks for any help you can provide!

*As an aside, I'm terribly embarrassed by this. I gained 30lbs during my college years---I was 5'10"/155lbs, and now I'm 185lbs.

 

[othertravel]

You might not want to size up. If you did, the shoulders would be too wide. Your best bet is to let out the sides a bit.

 

[CalGuy13]



You might not want to size up. If you did, the shoulders would be too wide. Your best bet is to let out the sides a bit.

Good to know. Is there any other work the coat needs?

 

[sugarbutch]

If the shoulders fit, but everything else is too snug, you might want to consider a suit with a different cut which is closer to your shape. Sometimes there isn't a lot of outlet cloth on RTW jackets, and once the tailor opens it it up, you're stuck with it.

 

[CalGuy13]



If the shoulders fit, but everything else is too snug, you might want to consider a suit with a different cut which is closer to your shape. Sometimes there isn't a lot of outlet cloth on RTW jackets, and once the tailor opens it it up, you're stuck with it.

Are you saying that if I have the coat let out in the waist, I can't later have it taken in if I lose weight?

 

[sugarbutch]

No, I'm saying that there may not be enough extra cloth to get the jacket to fit properly at your current size.