The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Shcshc11

    Shcshc11 Member

    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Hi all,

    Could anyone help critique a suit I received from Black Lapel?
    The first 3 pictures were about 5 feet away.

    I'm worried about the collar so I took close-up pictures of the collar as well.
    If I need to fix it, is it something that can be done easily by the tailor?

    Thanks for all the help!






    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. robbrechter

    robbrechter Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2010
    

    Dress shoes and button your top button. I'm not a tailor, but if you want good feedback, follow the instructions on the first page of the thread. I don't want to come off rude, but I'd rather let you know now than you wait for one to respond only for them to tell you that and a few days have gone by and you still don't have good feedback.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
  3. chrishhh

    chrishhh New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2013
    Just joined the forum and really: it's a God-send. Lots of great advice.

    I'm not super sure about the rules in posting for advice regarding a suit, so let me know if you have any questions. I got this suit at a thrift shop for a "Mad Men" party but it fit weirdly well. Would you wear this to work? I work at a law firm so I'm not sure if it would look totally bizarre.
    "
    The suit label says "Cricketeer" and looks similar to the label here but it says "Brown's Minneapolis." I've found info here on the suit -- but I'm more concerned about how the thing looks. Better pictures are here. The back is kind of a mess I think.

    Here's the pictures:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
  4. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

    Messages:
    1,108
    Likes Received:
    244
    Joined:
    May 4, 2011
    
    Sorry to say it, but that's a pretty terribly fitting jacket. Looks like you have an extremely dropped shoulder or slight scoliosis which is wreaking havoc with the back of the jacket. Also, get some new jeans and shoes, and please don't button the bottom button of your suit jacket.:) Welcome to StyleForum.:)
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2013
  5. Shcshc11

    Shcshc11 Member

    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Reply to Robrechter:

    Thanks for the advice.
    Should I still button the top button of the shirt if I intend to leave it open most of the time?
    Wouldn't buttoning it ''skew'' the looks if its intentions are business casual?

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
  6. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,894
    Likes Received:
    624
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    
    this thing is a mess. I don't think it can be any fix. Ask me what is not wrong with this jacket.
     
  7. MikeDT

    MikeDT Senior member

    Messages:
    4,276
    Likes Received:
    275
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2010
    Location:
    China, Mongolia and UK
    Terrible jacket. Send it back to Salvation Army or burn it. It's not Mad Men, it's more like Rab C Nesbitt.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2013
  8. wohwoh

    wohwoh Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2013
    Hi everyone, please critique my Thick As Thieves House Cut Suit.

    Please note that the house cut is meant to have skinny lapels and the jacket length is meant to be 2 inches shorter than usual.[​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    I'm not sure why the back is crunching up like that, is this normal? These pictures are after having the suit jacket and pants pressed and worn to an interview. Also, I am thinking about taking in the sides a little. What's your opinion on this?
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013
  9. caseyfud

    caseyfud Senior member

    Messages:
    1,799
    Likes Received:
    3,719
    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2011
    





    which one of you is a tailor, again?
     
  10. robbrechter

    robbrechter Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2010
    

    It's about how the suit jacket interacts with the shirt. Cuffs and collars should be buttoned. Also, if you don't plan to ever button it/wear a tie, consider button down collar for a cleaner look. Shoes is to make sure pants are breaking properly.
     
  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Likes Received:
    68
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    
    You look to need a shorter front balance and longer back balance, or a change in the balance point to pull the jacket forward. You have such a strong rounded upper back or so it appears along with head forward posture that this is the issue. A skilled tailor can square the front balance which will require a collar recut but the back balance cant be lengthened at that point on a finished jacket which only half fixes the problem....or you can see if BL has a remake option.
     
  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Likes Received:
    68
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    
    I would say it needs shorter back balance to prevent the gaping vent but it looks like that operation was already done but I dk. There is an issue with the collar can't really tell what it is. It may also have been taken in at the cb seam and possibly overworked there. The cb seam looks blown out. Did you steam it? The bare minimum is get the shoulder to shoulder balance fixed. Padding on the right side. Then u get the right sleeve lengthened. Have a tailor look at the vent area. It can always be improved no matter what these knuckleheads say in the thread and if you really like it, Sink a few bucks into it...why not? Better to do it and maybe find out that it wasn't the best option than to toss it and regret never doing it. But you are a lawyer or well on your way so don't tarry too long in that world.... And to all you "knuckleheads"....I mean it in the nicest way :)
     
  13. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

    Messages:
    1,108
    Likes Received:
    244
    Joined:
    May 4, 2011
    

    Don't have to be a tailor to see that that jacket is all kinds of messed-up. ;) But I see your point and agree with you: this thread is degraded when "knucklehead" non-tailors such as myself throw our 2 cents into the mix. From this point onward I will cease commenting on other members' pictures in this thread. :nodding:
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013
  14. darryl20

    darryl20 Member

    Messages:
    22
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2013
    



    The back of the jacket's messed up, misaligned even.
     
  15. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,894
    Likes Received:
    624
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    Question to the tailors-

    I dropped a jacket for alteration at a tailor I have never used before. This tailor has very good reputation in Sydney.
    They way he measured me and pinned the jacket is completely different to my other tailor. He only used 1 pin each sides and 1 pin each sleeves and just used chalk mark for sleeve length . Other tailor would use 3/4 pins each sides few pins on the center back seam and 3 pins on each sides of sleeve and 1 pin for shortening of the sleeves and 1 extra pin at the end of the sleeves for that perfect tapering.
    Now I am just worried this new tailor may not to able to alter the jacket to my liking as he simply didn't take enough measurements. I am a stick (36 chest with 27 waist) and I need some serious alteration for a jacket to fit perfectly. He seemed like against a slim fully fitted look ! Can anyone shed any light on what is best way to mark a jacket for alteration.

    Also I am 5'9.5" and most of my jackets are 29" to 30" this jacket is 30.2". And I feel it looks 1/2 inch too long. What is the perfect length jacket for guys at my height ?
    I was wearing a jacket today that was 29" and the tailor said my jacket should've been 30" minimum.

    Thanks in advance.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by