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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

terrorsquad

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Dear Mr Despos and A Tailor,

Would appreciate your professional feedback on my friends suit. This is his first fitting session.How can the creases at the knee area of his trousers be eliminated?




 

Despos

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Lift the back part and lower the back rise from the top of the back panels, straighten the out seam.
 

a tailor

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Despos, here I have the pics of all the suits I have. Any hel would be appreciated. This is the one that I think, it fits in my shoulders well. 

1.
 

2. This is the one that I posted a bit earlier, in which someone told me that my shoulders were too wide (and the pagoda shoulders), this is one that the tailor want to do that alteration of "leeting out" the back in order to have more room for the shoulders.




This next pic is from the front. The one in the left, the white circle is where I can feel my shoulder, that's why I asked in the thread of "Uncomfortable Shoulders", cause I think that I have foward shoulder, but can you tell from a pic?


   

3. I think this one fits well too... your thoughts?






4.  I think this one fits well too... your thoughts?




5. Next ones, I'm not sure about the fit on the shoulders, the tailor is planning to let the back out to get extra room for the shoulders. But my question is, why does the sleeve looks like that? The grey one is the same as the one I posted some post earlier. 


  

6. Finally this is one that also he is thinking to let out the back a bit. Also I will told him to let the waist out a bit, eventhough I don't feel it tight, it looks tight. In the front pic, I feel the shoulder more in the front part of the jacket. 


   

Thanks in advance for any recommendation. Sorry about the long post and the lot of images, I don't know how to put thos "Spoilers", my apologies.


on#2 thats the spot that most people with that problem feel it.
but the tailor would need to see if there was cloth under the collar to work with.
if not he could find cloth to add on.

#5 the dark one is a little tight on the right hip.
on both the sleeves can be rehung/change the pitch.
but he may find a problem with the armhole, its shape may not allow a change of pitch.

#6 its too tightin the waist and the butt..
 

a tailor

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My first peak lapel suit I picked up. This is not the same basting thread as on the pockets and vents of new suits right? I presume it serves a purpose of holding down the lapel? Or can I cut this off:
rlblue2.jpg
do not cut. those stitches keep the point of the lapel from falling over. thats a problem that ready to wear has with peaks.
 
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a tailor

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sup this is a cross post from the thrift thread but I would like feedback here as well, how to I lengthen the sleeves if they have a functional cuff? I realize this jacket needs that... also is it possible to change a normal roll 3 button to a 3 roll 2?
quote:
okay I have another youth in government thing tomorrow and I think I am getting better at dressing for these things but I would still appreciate feedback...





yes the sleeves do seem short. if you dont mind a wide space between the bottom button and the bottom of the sleeve. you can have the sleeves lengthened. you cant move buttonholes. you can add a fifth buttonhole to close up the space. but you may not be able to match the type of buttonhole either by machine or by hand. if you can do all that then you need a new set of buttons. talk to your tailor about the lapels, cant tell from the picture. if he can, you still have the buttonhole problem.
 

Betelgeuse

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on#2 thats the spot that most people with that problem feel it.
but the tailor would need to see if there was cloth under the collar to work with.
if not he could find cloth to add on.
#5 the dark one is a little tight on the right hip.
on both the sleeves can be rehung/change the pitch.
but he may find a problem with the armhole, its shape may not allow a change of pitch.
#6 its too tightin the waist and the butt..

Thanks a lot "a tailor", I really appreaciate your feedback. In #2, he will need to make that alteration "Uncomfortable shoulders" that you posted, right? I will tell him about it. My question would be, how much cloth does he need to make the alteration? I hope I made my doubt clear
shog[1].gif


Edit: I forgot to ask, the shoulders looks fine in all of them?
 
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Chase H

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Are you for real on the sleeves? An alterations place I went to said there would always be a crease where the sleeve once ended.

Also, if you're cheap, broke, or like the idea, you could always go for a new button that deliberately contrasts.
 

IRKSM

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yes the sleeves do seem short.
if you dont mind a wide space between the bottom button and the bottom of the sleeve.
you can have the sleeves lengthened.
you cant move buttonholes. you can add a fifth buttonhole to close up the space.
but you may not be able to match the type of buttonhole either by machine or by hand.
if you can do all that then you need a new set of buttons.
talk to your tailor about the lapels, cant tell from the picture.
if he can, you still have the buttonhole problem.
I meant change the roll on a different jacket this one is already a 3 roll 2
 

a tailor

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Thanks a lot "a tailor", I really appreaciate your feedback. In #2, he will need to make that alteration "Uncomfortable shoulders" that you posted, right? I will tell him about it. My question would be, how much cloth does he need to make the alteration? I hope I made my doubt clear 
shog%5B1%5D.gif


Edit: I forgot to ask, the shoulders looks fine in all of them?


hopefully there will be at the very least 1/2 " underneath the collar to work with.
shoulders look good.
you might print out that tutorial so that you can show him what you are talking about.
 

Chase H

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hopefully there will be at the very least 1/2 " underneath the collar to work with.
shoulders look good.
you might print out that tutorial so that you can show him what you are talking about.
Is it always possible to lengthen sleeves, assuming that there's matching fabric folded inside the cuffs? A seamstress assured me there would always be a crease where the end of the sleeve used to be.
 

a tailor

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Are you for real on the sleeves? An alterations place I went to said there would always be a crease where the sleeve once ended.

Also, if you're cheap, broke, or like the idea, you could always go for a new button that deliberately contrasts.


cottons and synthetics will usually show.. wools most of the time work out well.
unless its very old or badly worn . its up to the tailor to advise the customer of options.
your tailor was giving you his honest opinion.
 

MASTERTAILOR

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The sleeves look like that because the width across the back of the jacket is too great for the width across your back.
*I think the best place to take the jacket in would be the center back seam, it doesn't look like its on the straight grain anyway. that will pull the shoulders closer together across your back and raise the sleeve, getting rid of the excess fabric bunching on the back of your sleeve. You can see the curve where the jacket meets the sleeve (known as the back armcycle) is not correct.
*you can also try taking up the excess through the back armcycle...only use a tailor you really trust when it comes to sleeves.
 

Betelgeuse

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The sleeves look like that because the width across the back of the jacket is too great for the width across your back.
*I think the best place to take the jacket in would be the center back seam, it doesn't look like its on the straight grain anyway. that will pull the shoulders closer together across your back and raise the sleeve, getting rid of the excess fabric bunching on the back of your sleeve. You can see the curve where the jacket meets the sleeve (known as the back armcycle) is not correct.
*you can also try taking up the excess through the back armcycle...only use a tailor you really trust when it comes to sleeves.

Hello! I don't know for whom this post was. I'm guessing it was for me?
 

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