The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    Despos - I know that you are a very well regarded tailor and suit maker and have added numerous fantastic observations to this thread. However, I think this reply shows a 1% slant and is overly critical given the manufacturer and price point. I think a lot of regular people - the other 99% - would see this is a pretty decent suit. The poster needs to fix the gaping center vent plus a few other tweaks. But I am willing to bet money that if this guy was in pretty much every office in the world he would be just fine. Common folks won't know a thing about shoulder to waist proportions They won't catch the way the sleeve drapes. Length is a huge debate here too, and to me is a personal preference. Indochino is not going to be able to incorporate tweaks for a low shoulder or prominent shoulder blade. It is a $400 suit, not $4,000.

    So to the poster you really have two options in my mind....go back to indochino with these super specific obsersations and see what they can do about it (but don't hold your breath), or you can take it to a local tailor who can look at more than 4 pictures and suggest changes. Maybe even go to a few tailors, compare what they say. If you are mostly happy with this then have them make the adjustments and submit for a credit. Getting a remake could open up a new can of worms.

    Free comment, so you get what you pay for. Good luck.
     


  2. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

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    This isn't a thread to determine what the 99% thinks of your suit, it's a thread to determine what a tailor would think of your suit.
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Regarding this suit I would like to see a 400.00 RTW suit on this guy compared with this suit and see what is a better value regarding fit. I will stick to my comments and would prefer this guy get the most bang for his buck. These programs that take measurements and feed it to a computer to generate a pattern aren't where they need to be yet. What is wrong with this suit is a result of this and not really correctable with alterations. What I hear in your your comments is to let him wear something that isn't right because 99% of people are too stupid to recognize the fit so it doesn't matter. You would be surprised by what the 99% perceive. I hear very specific comments about the fit and styling of clothes from a broad range of people. It actually surprises me the degree of small things they notice.

    The whole idea of dressing well is you are packaging yourself just like any product on a shelf. You are judged by the packaging. Regardless of the quality of suit you wear, proper fit will compensate for much of your appearance. That's my mantra. Buy the suit you can afford with the best fit possible.

    It's very interesting if you take the animation tour at Disneyland. They discuss how they created the appearance of each of the 7 dwarves to reflect the character of their name. They explain the best way to convey the persona for Dopey was to make his clothes ill fitting.

    My comments/critique are to help this guy recognize what he is getting for his efforts to have a better suit for his money
     


  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    JOHNNEY APPLESEAD

    please go to the tutorials and scroll down to "taking in a jackets sides".
     


  5. HansderHund

    HansderHund Senior member

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    I wanted to ask the tailors an odd question...

    I find it difficult to find robes that fit well as most are huge. I have a couple that are great, except that I'm swimming in them. I think a robe is a fairly simple construction, but I was wondering how much it can be tailored. Obviously it's worn around the home and not necessary to have a perfect fit, but I'm just wondering what is possible. I would imagine they can be shortened fairly easily, but what about the rest? In particular, I have a normal robe that wraps and ties. What could I have done in order to make it fit better? It wasn't cheap and it's 100% silk, so I'm willing to spend a bit on it, but it would likely be silly to have them remake the entire thing.

    Any help or advice you can offer is greatly appreciated!
     


  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the strap that holds the Ds is far too narrow for that size D. Or the Ds are too big for the straps.
    If the Ds were smaller the straps from the front would be fine.
    you can find those Ds at a hardwear store. they should be small enough to fit snugly into the strap from the back.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2012


  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Robe or dressing gown?

    You can reduce at the side seams. How much depends on the depth of the armholes. Some may have onseam pockets and that would complicate things.
     


  8. HansderHund

    HansderHund Senior member

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    I suppose it would be a dressing gown. It has a shawl collar and the length hits me just past the knees. It's good to know that they can be taken in at the side seams as I wasn't sure that was possible. Since it overlaps when you tie it, I have been making due.

    I would really like to taper the arms (is that a thing?!) just enough so it doesn't look too giant. It's not a kimono style sleeve or anything, but it's far too large for my arms. I'd also love to shorten it so it ends just above my knees. I had assumed that was the simplest procedure out of all of it, but I'm often uncertain of tailoring work.

    Thanks a lot for your thoughts!
     


  9. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Anything critical you see from this one photo? I know the pocket placements are a bit high, exacerbated by the angle of photography.
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The lower patch pockets look oversized too
     


  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've done the same thing, hate the extra wide sleeves. They get in the way. Hard to move around when they are so wide. If there is some sort of cuff on the sleeve it could get complicated and a bit expensive.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2012


  12. badger1

    badger1 Member

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    Could anyone please provide your opinion on my suit? It's a made to measure Armani Collezioni, size 38S. I am 5'9 (or a bit less), 150lbs. Chest 38, waist 29. This suit is a size 38S.

    It has already been through first set of alteration (taken in on the back through the middle, waist taken in a bit). I am quite disappointed with the fit, namely it looks baggy from the front, there is lot of creasing on the back, and wrinkling along the sleeve/shoulder area.

    Do you think it is beyond saving, or is there still hope? How can the issues be addressed, if at all?

    Thank you in advance. I apologize for the rotated photos and poor quality (iphone).
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2012


  13. IRKSM

    IRKSM Senior member

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    hey so I just bought this southwick from another member I think it fits be great but I am going to hem the pants to a slight break take out the cuffs add a little more waist suppresion and lengthen the sleeves a tiny bit, are these the right moves?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  14. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

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    I've a 6x2 double-breasted sport coat I love. Its a bit loose (but not at all unacceptably so) in the waist and slightly too tight slong the hips, where it buttons. There is noticeable pulling. What are my options?
     


  15. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    You know what, I really thought I was on the indochino thread as that thread was side by side this one in my feed. Whoops my bad. Cheers.
     


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