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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. jbernard

    jbernard Senior member

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    I have never had a peak lapel with the stitching. What is the difference between mine and OTR peak lapels?
     


  2. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    I have the same stitching on off-the-rack, peak label suits from Canali and RL Purple Label.

    As has been mentioned, the purpose of those little stitches is to help to hold the upper and lower parts of the lapel together so that the larger, lower part doesn't droop.
     


  3. jbernard

    jbernard Senior member

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    Right I get that. But I don't understand why a bespoke suit doesn't need it. Where an OTR suit does.
     


  4. jbernard

    jbernard Senior member

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    I am having some trouble with some side-tabs on some suit pants I have.The first picture shows the only way to get a little bit of hold. The second picture (the way they are suppose to hold) Doesn't hold at all. There is almost no effort at all needed to pull it apart. Anyway to make this better I very much like the look. And when they are initially holding it is great, I don't like having to constantly pull the tabs tighter. Thanks
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     


  5. John Appleseed

    John Appleseed Well-Known Member

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    I purchased this RLBL Tuxedo when I was a size 42. It cost $2k + and I only got to wear it once. After a lot of exercise I am now a 38.

    I took the Suit to a highly recommended SF-approved tailor and after $500 for a total recut of the tux I am mostly happy with the result with the exception of one problem.

    If you look at the photo's, you will see around the chest the suit does not sit properly. It is clearly evident in the photos.

    The tailor says that this is simply the canvas rolling up under the fabric and apparently nothing he can do about it.

    Can anyone here provide additional insight and/or possible solutions to this problem? I would really like to get this tux fitting right considering the money invested in it.

    ** Please note, it has a slight pull around the stomach. Please disregard, I requested the tailor do this because I still have a few kilos to shed.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  6. John Appleseed

    John Appleseed Well-Known Member

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    Just in case it is not clear, I have highlighted the area of the jacket that I am referring to in my above post:


    [​IMG]
     


  7. SloopyNoob

    SloopyNoob Senior member

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    So I took the Indochino plunge and my suit just arrived. Could everyone please critique?


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


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    [​IMG]
     


  8. mkarim

    mkarim Senior member

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    Jacket:
    1. Is tight (you can see the vent opening because it is being pulled to the sides)
    2. is uneven at the back (too many waves)
    3. Pulls in the front when you close the buttons

    Pants:
    1. Don't have a smooth drape but are okay.

    Sleeves:
    1. Don't have a smooth drape

    Nice shoes though! :satisfied:
    ...
    ...
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2012


  9. SloopyNoob

    SloopyNoob Senior member

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    Thanks. Yes, that was my first impression also. The pants look pretty good but not the jacket. Can the jacket be fixed by a tailor or should I just have it remade?
     


  10. jbernard

    jbernard Senior member

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    The pants look good. And for once it seems they got the shoulders right the first time which is good news for you. I would get it remade as it looks like it needs an inch and a half out. And depending on how good your tailor is you will be able to see the old seem in certain light. If you are going for the modern, a little but of tug on the button, look you can probably get it taken out enough but there is the chance you will be able to see the old seam (I have never had this problem when I bought OTR suits, but a close friend has).

    Also I can't say for sure. But your left sleeve may need to be shortened. It looks a little longer than your right sleeve, and it is bunched near the elbow. I think if it is strait and unbunched it may be too long.
     


  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you would provide a back shot it would provide more to go on. This looks like an example of trying to take in the jacket too much and maybe not doing it correctly.
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This jacket is beyond fixing. It doesn't sit on your shoulders properly. Balance is off. Chest is too narrow. The jacket is disproportionate shoulder to chest to waist to hip. Not enough overlap on the front edge. The narrow chest and overlap issue make the lapels bow out and stand away from your chest. You have a low right shoulder and a prominent left shoulder and blade. Jacket is a bit short. Sleeves don't hang properly.

    Trouser is too narrow in the thigh area the leg does not drape well. Back rise is too long.

    This may not be the brand for you
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2012


  13. SloopyNoob

    SloopyNoob Senior member

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    Thanks. If I chose to remake the suit, which areas should I make adjustments on?
     


  14. MASTERTAILOR

    MASTERTAILOR Member

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    can you post a pick without the jacket on, front and back?
     


  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Every element of the jacket and trouser is off. When I see a jacket like this I would advise to try a different maker. The only way I could tell you what to adjust is to see you in a basic size jacket with no adjustments made to it. This was made from specific measurements and is distorted. It seems their basic patterns have a distinct silhouette that doesn't meld very well with certain body types.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2012


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