The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

[TheOttosauraus]

I know that he did wrk at G&H, but that doesn't mean his suits had amazing construction.

That is, once he started his label, it doesn't follow that he had his suits made to G&H standards.

Keep in mind that most fashion labels (Prada, D&G, Gucci) have so-so construction in their suits, with a few exceptions.

Construction isn't paramount for many labels.

I know that most fashion houses do not have high quality construction, but I believe that McQueen is slightly above the others. Obviously you pay for the design as well, but there's definitely carry over from G&H.

 

[clee1982]

Versace use to be excellent (top line Zegna) decades ago, Gucci was good when Tom Ford was around. I wouldn't write them off just because they're fashion brand, I have no idea how good/bad they're these days though

PS and wasn't dior pretty good too? Construction wise, not my type of cut...

 

[TheOttosauraus]

Versace use to be excellent (top line Zegna) decades ago, Gucci was good when Tom Ford was around. I wouldn't write them off just because they're fashion brand, I have no idea how good/bad they're these days though

PS and wasn't dior pretty good too? Construction wise, not my type of cut...

PS has always made some good quality suits. Full canvassed as far as I know, with some alright detailing. Just as TF made Gucci good, McQueen made his label good. I will admit I'm not fully aware of the quality of their suits as of now.

 

[jaywhyy]

Versace use to be excellent (top line Zegna) decades ago, Gucci was good when Tom Ford was around. I wouldn't write them off just because they're fashion brand, I have no idea how good/bad they're these days though

PS and wasn't dior pretty good too? Construction wise, not my type of cut...

Prada and Hermes are made by Belvest from what I hear. Haven't handled them IRL, but if they're Belvest then they can't be too bad.

 

[eHaberdasher]



Versace use to be excellent (top line Zegna) decades ago, Gucci was good when Tom Ford was around. I wouldn't write them off just because they're fashion brand, I have no idea how good/bad they're these days though

PS and wasn't dior pretty good too? Construction wise, not my type of cut...

Not sure if still the case, but Dior has been made by Maco aka Caruso (along with Lanvin, Smalto, RLBL, and a host of others)

 

[othertravel]

Prada is now made by Belvest and Cantarelli. The pieces I've seen are half-canvassed.

Paul Smith is made by a smaller Italian company and is half canvassed also.

Gucci has a fused and fully canvassed line (both made by Zegna). The canvassed pieces have a higher MSRP and are made to Zegna mainline standards, imo.

Tom Ford is obviously made to Zegna Couture standards.

 

[JTA]



Prada is now made by Belvest and Cantarelli. The pieces I've seen are half-canvassed.
Prada is made by Cantarelli (half canvassed) and Belvest (full canvas). Hermes is also by Belvest (full canvas) and made to higher standard than Prada.


Paul Smith is made by a smaller Italian company and is half canvassed also.
PS. Paul Smith is half canvassed, Paul Smith mainline (Made in Japan) is fully canvassed.


Gucci has a fused and fully canvassed line (both made by Zegna). The canvassed pieces have a higher MSRP and are made to Zegna mainline standards, imo.
Correct, and some are half canvassed.


Tom Ford is obviously made to Zegna Couture standards.

 

[othertravel]



I would double check the Belvest Prada suits. I did the pinch test and they went down to a half canvass.

The Paul Smith "London" line is half canvassed. PS is fused. The mainline (white label from Japan) is fully canvassed.

 

[MZhammer]

Disclaimer: This list is intended to recommend suits that have been evaluated first hand by the SF community based on construction quality. Brands not on the list have either not been evaluated or do not meet the minimum requirements to be recommended at any budget level. The list does not include criteria for fit, as it is subjective and differs for each body type, nor does it offer criteria for fabric or styling. If you're brand new to buying a suit, consider the fit of a garment before any other factors.

Excellent [☆☆☆☆☆]
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Caraceni
- Kiton
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Formosa
- St Andrew / Santandrea
- Zegna Couture

• Tom Ford

Very Good[☆☆☆☆] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Battistoni
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- D'Avenza
- Hermes (by Belvest)
- Isaia
- Oxxford (1220)
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma

• Ralph Lauren Purple Label

- Sartorio
- Stile Latino

Good[☆☆☆] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics but usually half canvassed)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani mainline
- Ermenegildo Zegna

• Dunhill (classical cut)
• Gucci (fashion forward cut)
• Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche (fashion forward cut)

- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Martin Greenfield

• House label on Gilt
• Freeman's Sporting Club
• Band of Outsiders
• Robert Talbott

- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline

• RLBL
• Ma.Co.
• Adriano and Sons

- Ring Jacket
- Samuelsohn

• Paul Stuart

- Scuderi


Satisfactory [☆☆] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boggi
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Burberry Prorsum
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)

• Polo Ralph Lauren

- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- Gucci
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Piombo
- Prada (half canvassed)
- Peter Millar
- Southwick
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Tagliatore
- Valentino (half canvassed)

Mediocre[☆] (Suits that are mediocre.)

- Armani Collezioni (fused)
- Armani Exchange
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Corneliani Trend (fused)
- Dolce & Gabbana
- hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- J Crew Ludlow (fused)
- Joseph Abboud
- Pal Zileri Lab
- Tombolini
- Versace Collection
- Z Zegna

Does anyone know who makes Berluti rtw? Bespoke is done by the old Arnys outfit.

 

[kulata]

You removed a lot of brands

 

[MZhammer]

You removed a lot of brands

Which ones?

 

[JTA]



I would double check the Belvest Prada suits. I did the pinch test and they went down to a half canvass.

The Paul Smith "London" line is half canvassed. PS is fused. The mainline (white label from Japan) is fully canvassed.

You're right on PS. Sorry I meant London is half canvassed, PS is fused and mainline (MIJ) is full canvas.
For Prada, they may change it now. Last I seen it was three or so years ago.

 

[kulata]



Which ones?

fixed.

 

[edwardthefirst]



Spoiler: Bumping the Most Recent List

Disclaimer: This list is intended to recommend suits that have been evaluated first hand by the SF community based on construction quality. Brands not on the list have either not been evaluated or do not meet the minimum requirements to be recommended at any budget level. The list does not include criteria for fit, as it is subjective and differs for each body type, nor does it offer criteria for fabric or styling. If you're brand new to buying a suit, consider the fit of a garment before any other factors.

 
Excellent [☆☆☆☆☆]

- Brioni

- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Caraceni

- Kiton
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana

- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale

- Luigi Borrelli
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)

- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Formosa

- St Andrew / Santandrea

- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford



Very Good[☆☆☆☆] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)


- Battistoni
- Belvest mainline

- Borrelli Luxury Vintage

- Canali Milano

- Corneliani Linea Sartoria

- D'Avenza
- Hermes (by Belvest)

- Isaia

- Oxxford (1220)

- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)

- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Partenopea

- Sartoria Attolini Napoli

- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma

- RLPL (Currently by Caruso)

- Sartorio

- Stile Latino


Good[☆☆☆] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)


- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics but usually half canvassed)

- Canali mainline

- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)

- Cantarelli mainline

- Corneliani mainline

- Dunhill

- Ermenegildo Zegna

- Faconnable Tailleur

- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)

- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)

- Pal Zileri mainline

- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)

- Paul Stuart (by Samuelsohn)

- Raffaelle Caruso mainline

- RLBL (Caruso Mainline)
- Ring Jacket
- Robert Talbott (Made in USA by Martin Greenfield)

- Samuelsohn
- Scuderi



Satisfactory [☆☆] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boggi

- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)

- Burberry Prorsum

- Cantarelli Tailor

- Charles Tyrwhitt

- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)

- Coppley (half canvassed)

- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)

- Gucci

- H. Freemann

- Hackett (half canvassed)

- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics

- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)

- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)

- Lardini (half canvassed)

- L.B.M. 1911

- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)

- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)

- Piombo

- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Prada (half canvassed)

- Peter Millar
- Southwick

- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Tagliatore

- Valentino (half canvassed)


Mediocre[☆] (Suits that are mediocre.)


- Armani Collezioni (fused)
- Armani Exchange

- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Corneliani Trend (fused)

- Dolce & Gabbana

- hickey (now fused and made in China)

- Hugo Boss (fused)
- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)

- J Crew Ludlow (fused)

- Joseph Abboud

- Pal Zileri Lab
- Tombolini

- Versace Collection

- Z Zegna

Does anyone know who makes Berluti rtw? Bespoke is done by the old Arnys outfit.

I've been meaning to ask this. Quality is fantastic, check out the Milanese:

And here is the pocket tag:

 

[jrd617]

@MZhammer why did you delete my tabbed formatting? Did you not find it helpful? Isn't it nice to know about Caruso's niche brands, and the fashion brands that are made by high end manufacturers?