The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[SJTM]

IRT the drop of an SS tux, aren't their suits usually a drop 6? I would think the pants, provided they fit your frame well, could easily be adjusted at the waist to accommodate.

CS said black can be purchased as separates; midnight blue is a 3 piece with waistcoat in matching fabric. Has a 6" drop but enough fabric to adjust the waist by up to 2". Only sold in even sizes.

Looking forward to visiting their shop. I have lost 28 lbs since the beginning of covid - working out with a personal trainer 3x per week and very focused on healthy diet. Now that the world is planning to become social again, time for some new clothes.

 

[BPL Esq]

CS said black can be purchased as separates; midnight blue is a 3 piece with waistcoat in matching fabric. Has a 6" drop but enough fabric to adjust the waist by up to 2". Only sold in even sizes.

Looking forward to visiting their shop. I have lost 28 lbs since the beginning of covid - working out with a personal trainer 3x per week and very focused on healthy diet. Now that the world is planning to become social again, time for some new clothes.

I'm in a similar boat. Down about 30lbs since January and very much looking forward to summer and some new clothes (or just tucking shirts in and feeling really good about it).

 

[Mark from Plano]

I also purchased a pair of the BB patent shoes online (had a linen jacket in the shopping cart in any event). Will see how they look / feel in person and then decide. No details on construction so I assume it is blake stitched. Thanks for the heads up on these.

I have these shoes. The quality is good. $200 is a great price. I also own a pair of BB calfskin opera pumps. I tend to alternate between the two for formalwear.

 

[Concordia]

Here's a picture of one of the gold standards for me instead! View attachment 1621772

The bottom third could be just a bit straighter/narrower before it knuckles in to the button. But very close.

Shawls are hard. They are like the Ivy League 3-button. Many versions, but only some reach the Platonic ideal.

 

[SJTM]

I believe SS is better made than those other options. You absolutely cannot go wrong with the classic SS peak lapel tux. It's a great mix of classic without looking too dated.

I don't get the hate for patent leather, but to each their own. I'd avoid captoes like the AE PAs - they will look odd, and will bring down the look IMO. Wholecuts would look better. Even better are these BB patent leather shoes - plus, they're on 50% off sale (plus 3% cashback from ebates!) which is the cheapest I've seen them and a pretty good deal.

Cummerbund vs waistcoat - up to you. 95% of people will probably be in cummerbunds (or nothing...) but both looks are nice. And yes, the fabric should match.

BB patent leather shoes arrived today. Actually quite nice. They are oxford plain toes, not derbys, so the lines are very clean and subtle ( if patent leather can ever be subtle). Nicely shaped toebox - closer to an American last rather than English, but overall a very good look. Single oak leather sole with nicely finished heel.

Thanks again for the heads up on these

 

[Big A]

I'm in a similar boat. Down about 30lbs since January and very much looking forward to summer and some new clothes (or just tucking shirts in and feeling really good about it).

Some of us went in the opposite direction

 

[The Chai]

Interesting...

 

[Concordia]

An interesting orgy produced that love-child. Dinner jacket, smoking jacket, blazer.

 

[Concordia]

CS said black can be purchased as separates; midnight blue is a 3 piece with waistcoat in matching fabric. Has a 6" drop but enough fabric to adjust the waist by up to 2". Only sold in even sizes.

Get black. It will fit better and go more places.

 

[Big A]

An interesting orgy produced that love-child. Dinner jacket, smoking jacket, blazer.

I have something like this that was dubbed a "sanitarium suit" - I don't have a pic of mine but here's an example

 

[Concordia]

The pic is actually something resembling a smoking jacket. Slightly casual, and soft fabric. Maybe the patch pockets are a little Brooks-blazerish, but for really private wear after dinner who gives a crap?

 

[Andy57]

What would you guys suggest for a first tuxedo? I know it's a fairly broad question but I'm torn on what styling to go with and would like to hear some perspectives. Preferably go single-breasted for this one, though. It'll be worn for upcoming balls.

It'll be custom MTM so most design options will be achievable.

I'll add my two cents' worth. For a first tuxedo, get a black, single breasted, peaked lapel jacket with grosgrain facings. Do not get vents in the coat.

grosgrain faced lapels
1 button, grosgrain covered
jetted pockets
dual vents (where I opt to break the traditional rules)

All good advice except for the vents. Ventless jackets are not somehow less comfortable, nor do they present a problem when sitting. Having vents in your dinner jacket just says ready to wear, or, worse, rented.

A question for the group: Should I go with a cummerbund or a waistcoat? If a waistcoat, with or without lapels? BL offers a shawl collar lapel on their waistcoat as an option with their peak lapel, single button tuxedo. Also, should fabric of waistcoat match fabric of tuxedo?

Finally, what are preferred shoe option? In the past I have worn a highly polished pair of AE PA's. Not a fan of patent leather, unless oxford lace ups ( not the derbys everyone seems to make). Wondering if I should buy a pair of Carmina black calf wholecuts or something similar.

Cummerbunds are a good option, and can be cooler than a waistcoat, if that's of concern. If you go with a waistcoat, it should match the fabric of your dinner jacket...or be wildly different. Cummerbunds should match the facings of your jacket and your tie, so just go with grosgrain.

Do not wear regular shoes. Just invest in a pair of patent oxfords or opera pumps, if you prefer those. The advice, below, to pick up the Brooks Brothers patent oxfords is good advice. I have a pair of them right now and the maker is Church. They regularly go on sale.

don't get the hate for patent leather, but to each their own. I'd avoid captoes like the AE PAs - they will look odd, and will bring down the look IMO. Wholecuts would look better. Even better are these BB patent leather shoes - plus, they're on 50% off sale (plus 3% cashback from ebates!) which is the cheapest I've seen them and a pretty good deal.

Cummerbund vs waistcoat - up to you. 95% of people will probably be in cummerbunds (or nothing...) but both looks are nice. And yes, the fabric should match.

Wholecuts are ugly and don't fool anyone. The Brooks patent oxfords are a great deal.

 

[Big A]

Excuse the slippers, they were comfortable and my black patent shoes were not. This was for a kind of wine dinner thing that was in a dark dining room located behind a hidden bookcase door in a basement, so I was pretty convinced that no one would be able to tell the shoes were red and not black down there.... I know you aren't supposed to prioritize comfort in these situations but it's post Covid and we are easing back into it, right?

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Fine by me. From the sounds of it, I would have considered dressing it down even more.

 

[Big A]

I'll add my two cents' worth. For a first tuxedo, get a black, single breasted, peaked lapel jacket with grosgrain facings. Do not get vents in the coat.

All good advice except for the vents. Ventless jackets are not somehow less comfortable, nor do they present a problem when sitting. Having vents in your dinner jacket just says ready to wear, or, worse, rented.

Cummerbunds are a good option, and can be cooler than a waistcoat, if that's of concern. If you go with a waistcoat, it should match the fabric of your dinner jacket...or be wildly different. Cummerbunds should match the facings of your jacket and your tie, so just go with grosgrain.

Do not wear regular shoes. Just invest in a pair of patent oxfords or opera pumps, if you prefer those. The advice, below, to pick up the Brooks Brothers patent oxfords is good advice. I have a pair of them right now and the maker is Church. They regularly go on sale.

Wholecuts are ugly and don't fool anyone. The Brooks patent oxfords are a great deal.

The only thing I disagree with here is the vents. I've always gotten vents my dinner jackets, makes them easier to wear in my opinion. As pointed out above patent oxfords are pretty cheap at the moment (This is a classic "do as I say not as I do" moment, since about two posts above I'm wearing the most beat up velvet slippers cause I didn't want to wear my patent shoes lol)

I also think cummerbunds look better than a vest generally speaking, but it depends on the vest. The only vests I've ever seen that look right are bespoke, so the humble cummerbund is definitely a more cost effective option.