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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Big A

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Fine by me. From the sounds of it, I would have considered dressing it down even more.
Actually started off with a 1950's ivory linen dinner jacket but I've been working out like crazy to try and shed Covid weight and I ripped out of the back.... Good thing I had a spare. Anyway the burgundy velvet shoes made more sense before I had to swap jackets
 

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Big A

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The pic is actually something resembling a smoking jacket. Slightly casual, and soft fabric. Maybe the patch pockets are a little Brooks-blazerish, but for really private wear after dinner who gives a crap?
Yes it's basically a smoking jacket. It's just made up with more conventional cloth. I will also caution that it does not look good if you have say hypothetically gained about 20 pounds over the last year. Smoking jackets that are tied at the waist only look good if you are thin, in my humble opinion
 

Nobilis Animus

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Actually started off with a 1950's ivory linen dinner jacket but I've been working out like crazy to try and shed Covid weight and I ripped out of the back.... Good thing I had a spare. Anyway the burgundy velvet shoes made more sense before I had to swap jackets
Well, looks like progress to me! haha

By the way, I agree with your comments about waistcoats/vests. I like mine to fit tightly, so custom is a must.
 

Andy57

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The only thing I disagree with here is the vents. I've always gotten vents my dinner jackets, makes them easier to wear in my opinion.
I know people say that, and for those people, like yourself, it must be true. But I am aware of no discernible difference in the way a ventless dinner jacket feels versus a double vented suit jacket. Well, okay, one difference is that vents make it easier to put one's hand in one's pocket. I think the line of a ventless jacket is more flattering, so much so that I have considered having a suit jacket made ventless.
 

Thin White Duke

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I know people say that, and for those people, like yourself, it must be true. But I am aware of no discernible difference in the way a ventless dinner jacket feels versus a double vented suit jacket. Well, okay, one difference is that vents make it easier to put one's hand in one's pocket. I think the line of a ventless jacket is more flattering, so much so that I have considered having a suit jacket made ventless.
Come on over to the dark side Andy.
With only a handful of exceptions all my suit jackets and odd jackets have their vents closed.
I don’t put my hands in my pockets (OK maybe only briefly to retrieve keys) so it’s no detriment to me and I like the unbroken unrumpled back.
You’ll get your detractors of course but I doubt that will bother you. People need to remember that THAT suit in ‘North By Northwest’ was ventless!

 

Andy57

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Come on over to the dark side Andy.
With only a handful of exceptions all my suit jackets and odd jackets have their vents closed.
I don’t put my hands in my pockets (OK maybe only briefly to retrieve keys) so it’s no detriment to me and I like the unbroken unrumpled back.
You’ll get your detractors of course but I doubt that will bother you. People need to remember that THAT suit in ‘North By Northwest’ was ventless!

I may well.

Bogart's suits in Casablanca and The Maltese Falcon were also all ventless. I like the look.
 

The Chai

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To those who are bargain hunting for odd silk facings..
Screenshot_20210624-203530_Gmail.jpg
 
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jonathanS

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To those who are bargain hunting for odd silk facings..View attachment 1629599
What company is that? It’s not clear from the screenshot. Do you ever feel like you spend so much on tailoring, yet don’t get the best fabrics Bc you’re bargain hunting? Like hiring a master chef and getting less than optimal ingredients.
 

The Chai

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R
What company is that? It’s not clear from the screenshot. Do you ever feel like you spend so much on tailoring, yet don’t get the best fabrics Bc you’re bargain hunting? Like hiring a master chef and getting less than optimal ingredients.
Richard James Weldon. Sometimes it does feel like that but it so happens when a bargain does pop up it's pretty much exactly what I want because it's a rare fabric of some sort which doesn't interest the general population ie dupioni. I don't bargain hunt for everything, it has always been more of a coincidental serendipitous exercise. Sometimes I pay full price.. sometimes I pay fuck all. It's a balance
 

jonathanS

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Richard James Weldon. Sometimes it does feel like that but it so happens when a bargain does pop up it's pretty much exactly what I want because it's a rare fabric of some sort which doesn't interest the general population ie dupioni. I don't bargain hunt for everything, it has always been more of a coincidental serendipitous exercise. Sometimes I pay full price.. sometimes I pay fuck all. It's a balance
Fair enough. I wasn’t aware Richard James Weldon had an online store you could buy from. I tried buying my own lining before. Wasn’t worth it haha.
 

The Chai

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Fair enough. I wasn’t aware Richard James Weldon had an online store you could buy from. I tried buying my own lining before. Wasn’t worth it haha.
Wasn't an online store. That was an email offer sent to me. I registered myself as a customer there. Better places to buy lining imo but depends on what you want. Theres plenty of silk linings for fur coats on the cheap out there which I discovered as a result of bargain hunting
 

jonathanS

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Wasn't an online store. That was an email offer sent to me. I registered myself as a customer there. Better places to buy lining imo but depends on what you want. Theres plenty of silk linings for fur coats on the cheap out there which I discovered as a result of bargain hunting
Imo. Bemberg is superior to silk for linings though. I was thinking facings, but green and red aren’t appropriate facings for any garment (Atleast that I can think of). Is there a link to see the sale?
 

Nobilis Animus

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You are correct, some would wear that & be appropriate. However, I, personally, don't like the look.
I think it works there because the rest of the jacket is a red velvet. As far as silk linings, I have a couple in old suits and simple black/cream. They certainly feel luxurious to me - maybe not the most physically comfortable, but mental comfort is its own reward.
 

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