The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Caustic Man]

Personally, I think you should always wear shoes with your DJ that are suitable for chasing Russians spies and international criminal masterminds through Hong Kong alleys.

You know. Just in case.

If the Russian spies look like this, I'd chase them regardless of footwear.

 

[palk]

Just took receipt of my dinner jacket from my tailor. I asked for open quarters to give the jacket more symmetry, which I think is elegant. What do you guys think?

Just my opinion, but since you asked for it: I think that its lightness and open quarters make it more of a stroller jacket / daywear than a dinner jacket / eveningwear. Throw on some grey trousers instead of that odd blue pair, and I think your above outfit would be a smart modern interpretation of the stroller.

 

[palk]

If the Russian spies look like this, I'd chase them regardless of footwear.

Careful; I hear "spies" like that are all chase and no (gun) action. Wouldn't want you to wear out your fancy shoes.

 

[Caustic Man]



Careful; I hear "spies" like that are all chase and no (gun) action.  Wouldn't want you to wear out your fancy shoes. 

Impossible to avoid. All my shoes are fancy.

 

[RaggedyDandy]

Just my opinion, but since you asked for it: I think that its lightness and open quarters make it more of a stroller jacket / daywear than a dinner jacket / eveningwear. Throw on some grey trousers instead of that odd blue pair, and I think your above outfit would be a smart modern interpretation of the stroller.

A good point - I had assumed it was actually black, and the appearance here was an artifact of the photo/lighting. Maybe Benjamin can confirm this point. Stylistic choices are still open for discussion

 

[Caustic Man]

Still looks like a dinner jacket to me. A stroller should have a lounge-suit-like jacket.

 

[benjamin831]



I do like the sweep of the lapels and the bottom quarters - it has a nice flow to it. I think the button may be a bit high, and the jacket a bit short, but it's not out of line with modern styling.

Thank you for your feedback. The buttoning point is located 1" about my belly button, I guess that's a little higher than the classical stance. The jacket does look a bit short, but in a full body shot I did after, I measured the top block and the bottom block and its right about 50/50. I do have shorter legs. My pants are still at the tailor since I wanted them more tapered. Once I get them back, I'll do a full rig shot!

Just my opinion, but since you asked for it: I think that its lightness and open quarters make it more of a stroller jacket / daywear than a dinner jacket / eveningwear.  Throw on some grey trousers instead of that odd blue pair, and I think your above outfit would be a smart modern interpretation of the stroller.

Thanks! The jacket is actually solid black! It looks lighter because it was really hard to take a photo of it indoors and see the details clearly, so I bumped up the brightness. I was under the assumption that stroller suits have much longer tails?

A good point - I had assumed it was actually black, and the appearance here was an artifact of the photo/lighting. Maybe Benjamin can confirm this point. Stylistic choices are still open for discussion

Yep, I did indeed brightened it, that's why it looks so weird!

 

[RaggedyDandy]

Thank you for your feedback. The buttoning point is located 1" about my belly button, I guess that's a little higher than the classical stance. The jacket does look a bit short, but in a full body shot I did after, I measured the top block and the bottom block and its right about 50/50. I do have shorter legs.

It's not the end of the world, and overall looks decent. A lower button stance would result in longer lapels and a longer shirt triangle, which in turn would visually elongate your torso.

Look forward to seeing a full photo!

 

[randomatom]

I'm vey curious about this topic. Usually, I subscribe more to the "study and start with the rules" camp, but I'm contemplating what what many of you might consider a mortal sin of semi-formal wear: breaking up a tuxedo and pairing with jeans. Here are the specifics:

Midnight blue shawl collar tuxedo jacket with no vents, jetted pockets and black satin lapel/buttons/pocket lining, bespoke.

White band/Henley collared shirt with French front (no placket). I think this is actually the piece that might pull it all together. Its lack of collar prohibits me from wearing a tie, and leaving the top two buttons undone will help dress down the jacket. This item is also bespoke.

Black jeans, slim fit.

Navy suede loafers from Zegna, to be worn with no-show socks.

I'm curious to hear feedback. The setting is my 35th birthday party at a somewhat nice bar in the evening. I should add that it's in San Francisco, where most men go to bars wearing Patagonia puffies or a hoodie. I don't want to be too over-the-top, but something about breaking a couple of rules appeals to me for this occasion.

 

[archibaldleach]

^ Sounds absolutely horrid, ugly, and tasteless. There are better ways to dress decently in places where jacket and tie are not common. But ultimately, it's up to you.

 

[randomatom]

^ Sounds absolutely horrid, ugly, and tasteless. There are better ways to dress decently in places where jacket and tie are not common. But ultimately, it's up to you.

Thanks for weighing in! We all need a sanity check every now and then.

 

[benjamin831]

Agreed, sounds like something an early 2000s Jersey Shore guido would wear. You're better off wearing a slim but well fitting suit with a crisp shirt and pocket square sans tie. Pick one with a more casual fabric like linen, mohair, silk blends, or flannel. SF is dress down but no one will fault a well dressed man. Check out SuitSupply, the have a decent selection of styles at a reasonable price.

 

[palk]

I'm vey curious about this topic. Usually, I subscribe more to the "study and start with the rules" camp, but I'm contemplating what what many of you might consider a mortal sin of semi-formal wear: breaking up a tuxedo and pairing with jeans. Here are the specifics:

Midnight blue shawl collar tuxedo jacket with no vents, jetted pockets and black satin lapel/buttons/pocket lining, bespoke.

White band/Henley collared shirt with French front (no placket). I think this is actually the piece that might pull it all together. Its lack of collar prohibits me from wearing a tie, and leaving the top two buttons undone will help dress down the jacket. This item is also bespoke.

Black jeans, slim fit.

Navy suede loafers from Zegna, to be worn with no-show socks.

I'm curious to hear feedback. The setting is my 35th birthday party at a somewhat nice bar in the evening. I should add that it's in San Francisco, where most men go to bars wearing Patagonia puffies or a hoodie. I don't want to be too over-the-top, but something about breaking a couple of rules appeals to me for this occasion.

It's curious that you're asking about an outfit without a tie in the "black tie" thread, but I'll humor you. To me it sounds like you're trying to wear a tuxedo as a blazer, to which I'd recommend you try to find an actual blazer better suited to your outfit. If you insist on black jeans, perhaps something light grey, approaching an ensemble like this but in a different palette:

 

[Thin White Duke]

Black tie is black tie and shouldn't be messed with. A silk lapelled dinner jacket as part of that is sacrosanct IMO. There are ways to do a casual outfit inspired by evening wear but anything involving a dinner jacket brings to mind the period of aberration when Ralph Lauren was wearing dinner jacket, evening shirt, bow tie and blue jeans.

I went to a New Years party at a friend's house once wearing black velvet blazer, white fly-fronted evening shirt with no tie, black wool strides and suede Venetian loafers (with socks!) - it was an experiment that I thought was a success but haven't had the opportunity to repeat it!

 

[SW1Y]

Talking about NYE, this is how we did it...



It's a throw together of all kinds of brands and styles, but hey, I'd like to think it's more or less the appropriate uniform for the formal occasion. And yes, events are far and few between, if only some of us can hold the fort black tie might remain.