The Sartorialist: "Right Fit" for a DB suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Dec 22, 2008.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    So how do you fix that kind of problem? widening the sleeve circle?

    Yes, the size of the sleeve and the shape of the armhole has to match. On a finished garment you can sometimes just lower the sleeve cap and the sleeve becomes proportionately wider to the sleeve height. Then redistribute fullness over sleeve cap.This happens more in RTW because of how they sew the sleeves onto the jacket. They distribute less fullness over the sleeve head and it creates the pull/dimple.

    All the neapolitan sleeve threads talk about this. How the top sleeve is cut wider and has more fulness over the deltoid area.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm so confused. Which buttons were moved? [​IMG]

    The left ones on the right side. Do I need to draw you a picture?
     
  3. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Fit is okay-the shoulders are a little tight, the narrow lapels and the wide button stance looks rather wierd though. I'm also not a fan of the pointy peaks but the fabric is tres cool.
     
  4. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This happens more in RTW because of how they sew the sleeves onto the jacket.

    Actually, it is more sinister than that (although the rest of his explanation is spot-on). It is a result of what we call "hanger appeal"; the desire to have a garment look nice on a hanger, in a store. But first, a picture pulled from another thread on the same problem.

    [​IMG]

    If it were a pitch problem there would be breaking near the red line in the photo but it looks ok. The sleeve is tight front to back as shown by the arrow. To correct this the sleeve should be cut a little wider and the cap a little shorter (the red line is the original, the black is the corrected version).

    Here's the sinister part; there is only so much fullness that can be sewn into the armhole. A shorter, wider sleeve will fit better, but a sleeve with a short cap will tend to lift away from the garment on a hanger. A very wide sleeve cap must be set absolutely perfectly in order to avoid any kind of puckering when on a hanger (the puckering disappears when worn). Most manufacturers err on the long and narrow side so that their garments look better on a hanger, especially those horrible little "wishbone" things that many retailers prefer. I prefer to cut a wide sleeve and use a wider hanger instead, but many stores object because it takes up precious space on the floor. I am constantly having this argument with retailers.......
     
  5. Steven Aver

    Steven Aver Senior member

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    Looks like a blue label RL by Corneliani to me. [​IMG]
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks Jeffrey, good to know.

    They need you over at the converting 3B to 3 roll 2 thread, immediately!
     
  7. bmulford

    bmulford Senior member

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    I like the suit. Agree it looks like a RLBL by Corneliani at least in the styling. He's wearing it a bit snug, but I think with a DB you can get away with it.

    I would prefer to see more than two sleeve buttons - especially with the jacket being so short. I'd also prefer a different tie, but its not bad at all.

    If he were posting on WAYW he'd get a ton of +1's
     
  8. Connemara

    Connemara [URL='http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jST2Sv63WQ']

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    Tom is right; the styling is classic RL Polo. Doesn't mean it is, of course...
     
  9. Hard2Fit

    Hard2Fit Senior member

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    Actually, it is more sinister than that (although the rest of his explanation is spot-on). It is a result of what we call "hanger appeal"; the desire to have a garment look nice on a hanger, in a store. But first, a picture pulled from another thread on the same problem.

    [​IMG]

    If it were a pitch problem there would be breaking near the red line in the photo but it looks ok. The sleeve is tight front to back as shown by the arrow. To correct this the sleeve should be cut a little wider and the cap a little shorter (the red line is the original, the black is the corrected version).

    Here's the sinister part; there is only so much fullness that can be sewn into the armhole. A shorter, wider sleeve will fit better, but a sleeve with a short cap will tend to lift away from the garment on a hanger. A very wide sleeve cap must be set absolutely perfectly in order to avoid any kind of puckering when on a hanger (the puckering disappears when worn). Most manufacturers err on the long and narrow side so that their garments look better on a hanger, especially those horrible little "wishbone" things that many retailers prefer. I prefer to cut a wide sleeve and use a wider hanger instead, but many stores object because it takes up precious space on the floor. I am constantly having this argument with retailers.......


    Ty.
     
  10. Hard2Fit

    Hard2Fit Senior member

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    Tom is right; the styling is classic RL Polo. Doesn't mean it is, of course...

    Agreed.
     
  11. SuitingStyle

    SuitingStyle Senior member

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    You think that a person's arm should bulge out from the jacket just under the shoulder? [​IMG]

    agreed, shoulders are way too narrow, suit looks like spandex on him........
     
  12. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    Actually, it is more sinister than that (although the rest of his explanation is spot-on). It is a result of what we call "hanger appeal"; the desire to have a garment look nice on a hanger, in a store. But first, a picture pulled from another thread on the same problem.

    [​IMG]

    If it were a pitch problem there would be breaking near the red line in the photo but it looks ok. The sleeve is tight front to back as shown by the arrow. To correct this the sleeve should be cut a little wider and the cap a little shorter (the red line is the original, the black is the corrected version).

    Here's the sinister part; there is only so much fullness that can be sewn into the armhole. A shorter, wider sleeve will fit better, but a sleeve with a short cap will tend to lift away from the garment on a hanger. A very wide sleeve cap must be set absolutely perfectly in order to avoid any kind of puckering when on a hanger (the puckering disappears when worn). Most manufacturers err on the long and narrow side so that their garments look better on a hanger, especially those horrible little "wishbone" things that many retailers prefer. I prefer to cut a wide sleeve and use a wider hanger instead, but many stores object because it takes up precious space on the floor. I am constantly having this argument with retailers.......


    Let me ask you guys something. I have no-clue about sleeves other then what was just explained. My sleeves on RTW are always way too full and need to be taken in. I have a Borrelli jacket with the camicia(sp) sleevehead comming and will most certaintly need to be taken in. Is there any particulars to be cautioned about with taking this type of sleeve in? Anything i should tell the tailor since most tailors have no-experience with these jackets? Much appreciated.
     
  13. Golf_Nerd

    Golf_Nerd Senior member

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    What do you think: the right fit?

    [​IMG]


    .

    Not perfect, but I like it very much. It should be one of 15 suits in rotation.

    .
     
  14. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    I think many people with muscular/bulky build have similar fit problem here on SF too. Basically, they don`t realize it, but their shoulder muscles do not fit the shoulder and sleeve of the jacket, and the jacket looks slightly too small. Also, people with meaty thighs wear pants that are too tight with pockets sticking out, etc.

    I think the Tom Ford OP fell into this trap too...thinking that good fit = tight.
     

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