The Sartorialist: "Right Fit" for a DB suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Dec 22, 2008.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I think many people with muscular/bulky build have similar fit problem here on SF too. Basically, they don`t realize it, but their shoulder muscles do not fit the shoulder and sleeve of the jacket, and the jacket looks slightly too small. Also, people with meaty thighs wear pants that are too tight with pockets sticking out, etc.

    I think the Tom Ford OP fell into this trap too...thinking that good fit = tight.


    Agreed 100%.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    But what he should have learned is that styling is all about proportion and balance.

    There is a difference between "close to the body" and "tight" as well.
     
  3. drake

    drake Senior member

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    A lot of complains in this thread, especially considering he looks better than 99% of the people in WAYWT.
     
  4. Kamala

    Kamala Well-Known Member

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    A lot of complains in this thread, especially considering he looks better than 99% of the people in WAYWT.

    I couldn't have said it better myself!!!!! We're on the same frequency! Some folks seemingly feel if they get a suit made by such and such that they are "on time" with their suit but that isn't the case. Mory Koba has style and I think he looks stunning!
     
  5. satorstyle

    satorstyle Senior member

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    Very stylish, love the suit's material.
     
  6. tutee

    tutee Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    as Tom pointed it out also. The placement of buttons, the buttons themselves, the placement of pockets, shape of gorge are all dead-on RL give away. This is not a blue label shoulder however. Ceratinly not something RL has done in blue label in a while. Most of recent Blue label is very soft shoulder. This is the more of a RLPL shoulder but then lapels dont match the shape of RLPL (at least most common models). If I have to guess its an very early RLPL or one of those RL collection suits from many years back. Could very well be a MTM suit with different aspects combined.

    If this is not RL then some other brand is seriously aping on RL design. Its hard to imagine this as a tailors suit.

    While there are problems with the sleeve head, some balance issues and the pocket square screams I care too much about accessories but I would personally much rather see him in this (any day) than good ol' GAP or A&F.

    P.S BTW.... RL hasn't done anything in RTW DB POW with a reddish brown like this in ages. Last time I saw something like this was about 8-9 years ago at least!
     
  7. MetroStyles

    MetroStyles Senior member

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    I really like the fit and the look. The color looks great on him as well.
     
  8. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    slightly big in the shoulders,

    It is WAY too small for him. I can see his deltoid.
     
  9. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    What do you think: the right fit?
    [​IMG]


    His facial expression says, "Yes, right fit for me. I like it like that."

    Not for me personally, but I can dig it.

    The colors of the suit and tie make me study the items themselves (as in, nice pick up of the orange panes on the suit with the tie). The colors of his shirt and PS make me notice his smile.

    - M
     
  10. unpainted huffheinz

    unpainted huffheinz Senior member

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    Looks like a somewhat poor copy of a Purple Label suit.
     
  11. unpainted huffheinz

    unpainted huffheinz Senior member

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    It looks like he just had the buttons moved rather than the sides altered. I've had tailors offer to do this before and it looks like that.
     
  12. Tumbleweed

    Tumbleweed Senior member

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    A lot of complains in this thread, especially considering he looks better than 99% of the people in WAYWT.

    Yeah, I think the same whenever there's a 'Dissect The Sartorialist' thread. If people were as critical and picky on WAYWT as they are in these nobody would post any photos. Well, aside from mafoofan.

    I do like the suit, it's a cool pattern. It does seem a little tight in places, but the pose confuses matters and he seems the kind of guy who can get away with tighter clothes. The tie knot, of course, could be better.
     
  13. laphroaig

    laphroaig Senior member

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    I'm probably talking rubbish but it looks to me he has a similar problem to the suit in the TF thread, though not as severe. Both subjects seem to have very sloped and rounded shoulders with large upper arms and wearing suits with much straighter shoulders. In both cases the upper sleeves also seem to be under strain. Would increasing the upper sleeve circumference fix at least the sleeve problems?

    The same arguments in the TF thread are being repeated here on whether the siut shoulders are too narrow or too wide. I think both sides have a point. Widening the shoulders would work by keeping the current suit's shoulder slope and hiding the slow curve of the round muscular shoulder under a more structured sharper shoulder line so the sides of the arms don't ruin the clean angle and intended downward line of the sleeve. On the other hand I think keeping the current shoulder width could also work by increasing the shoulder slope (is this viable as a suit alteration?), and into a softer shoulder, so the seam lands on the shoulder rather than above it, which then naturally turns into a soft filled out sleeve head. In the pictures both suits seem to be cut for a sharp shoulder but being worn sized as a soft shouldered suit and stuck in limbo.
     
  14. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

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    The two buttons on the cuff baffle me. I don't think it looks good on a suit.
     
  15. vitaminc

    vitaminc Senior member

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    A lot of complains in this thread, especially considering he looks better than 99% of the people in WAYWT.

    Sadly that is very true despite his suit doesn't fit as well as those bespoke spenders on the forum.

    p.s., anyone know how he folds his pocket square? Oragami!!!
     

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