Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

The Sartorialist: "Right Fit" for a DB suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Dec 22, 2008.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    What are dimplets, baby dumplings?

    They are Tom Ford's speciality. Essential to the Look.

    The peak lapels are little exaggerated for my taste, and I would have preferred a darker tie and better knot. The buttons also look a little weird.

    What do you consider a 'better' knot and what's wrong with the buttons?
     


  2. CharlesAlexander

    CharlesAlexander Senior member

    Messages:
    1,724
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2008
    Location:
    Soho, New York
    This is an Eredi Pisano suit? Makes sense. There's something very obnoxious about it.

    Mafoo, I actually think you would look really good in this suit.
     


  3. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

    Messages:
    12,202
    Likes Received:
    622
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    The suit's fit is fantastic and I love the fabric. The peak lapels are little exaggerated for my taste, and I would have preferred a darker tie and better knot. The buttons also look a little weird. I absolutely LOVE the pocket square and the fold.

    Most importantly the look "fits" him. Overall a solid nine out of ten. [​IMG]


    yeah, he looks good in it, despite all these "imperfections"

    FWIW, i think the sleeves are a spot on fit.
     


  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,384
    Likes Received:
    2,048
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    Location:
    The wild and the pure.
    yeah, he looks good in it, despite all these "imperfections"

    FWIW, i think the sleeves are a spot on fit.

    You think that a person's arm should bulge out from the jacket just under the shoulder? [​IMG]
     


  5. haganah

    haganah Senior member

    Messages:
    6,351
    Likes Received:
    27
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2007
    Location:
    New York, NY
    You think that a person's arm should bulge out from the jacket just under the shoulder? [​IMG]
    This suit is RTW, non?
     


  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,119
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    I would be very surprised if this was not RL. Those lapels have the disproportionate RL styling. The middle & lower buttons on the left front, Grimslades right, have been moved almost 1" further away from the front edge than the left side, Grimslades right.

    Just for the record here is a simple explanation of the dimple on the sleeve under the shoulder.

    Picture a circle as the armhole. Another circle as the sleeve. The sleeve circle is just 1/4" narrower than the armhole circle. This creates horizontal tension and the dimple occurs. Hold a pice of cloth in your hand and pull it horizontally, it will do the same thing. The other cause can be if the height of the sleeve circle is higher than the armhole circle. the excess length falls in and voila, a dimple appears.

    Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.
     


  7. vitaminc

    vitaminc Senior member

    Messages:
    2,407
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
    Location:
    Silicon Valley, CA
    I think we are looking to do it at the end of this week, or next weekend.

    I think it is hysterical that people think the shoulder is too big. It is as though if the shoulder were even shorter, they think that his shoulder muscle would stop popping out. Makes a lot of sense [​IMG].


    but if the shoulder is extended further with way more paddings added, it will throw off the balance of the sleeves (and look as those retards in NFL), no?

    I think the misconception is that if the shoulder ended sooner, it wouldn't cave into the empty space above the deltoid. But what's funny is the way a misconception from AB's many threads is now infecting unrelated threads, and unnknowledge (groupthink) is being spread.

    havent follow that ab trhead too closely, but were there any comments by legitimate tailors (as oppose to circle jerking igents) on how to solve that kind of problems?
     


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.

    Ha, you just made my day [​IMG].
     


  9. vitaminc

    vitaminc Senior member

    Messages:
    2,407
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
    Location:
    Silicon Valley, CA
    I would be very surprised if this was not RL. Those lapels have the disproportionate RL styling. The middle & lower buttons on the left front, Grimslades right, have been moved almost 1" further away from the front edge than the left side, Grimslades right.

    Just for the record here is a simple explanation of the dimple on the sleeve under the shoulder.

    Picture a circle as the armhole. Another circle as the sleeve. The sleeve circle is just 1/4" narrower than the armhole circle. This creates horizontal tension and the dimple occurs. Hold a pice of cloth in your hand and pull it horizontally, it will do the same thing. The other cause can be if the height of the sleeve circle is higher than the armhole circle. the excess length falls in and voila, a dimple appears.

    Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.


    So how do you fix that kind of problem? widening the sleeve circle?
     


  10. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,598
    Likes Received:
    381
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    What are dimplets, baby dumplings?

    They are a secret cut by top master tailors with ponytails.

    The suit looks too tight to me.

    --Andre
     


  11. CharlesAlexander

    CharlesAlexander Senior member

    Messages:
    1,724
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2008
    Location:
    Soho, New York
    What do you consider a 'better' knot and what's wrong with the buttons?

    The knot just looks a little sloppy, I would have preferred a very neat FIH. The buttons themselves are OK, it's the position of the buttons that's a little weird.

    But I am nitpicking, overall I love the look.
     


  12. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

    Messages:
    826
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2004
    Location:
    New Hope, PA
    Other than the 2 buttons on the sleeves, this is classic RL to me. The shape of the peak lapels as well as the fabric point me clearly in that direction.

    To be further definitive, I say RL from the early 1990's/late 1980's.
     


  13. Infrasonic

    Infrasonic Senior member

    Messages:
    1,900
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    May 27, 2007
    Location:
    Manchester, UK.
    You think that a person's arm should bulge out from the jacket just under the shoulder? [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  14. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Hard to judge fit with that pose. From what I can tell of the cut, I don't think it works for him, and it is certainly not something I would choose for him (or for me).
     


  15. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

    Messages:
    10,876
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2006
    Location:
    Back in Black
    I would be very surprised if this was not RL. Those lapels have the disproportionate RL styling. The middle & lower buttons on the left front, Grimslades right, have been moved almost 1" further away from the front edge than the left side, Grimslades right.

    Just for the record here is a simple explanation of the dimple on the sleeve under the shoulder.

    Picture a circle as the armhole. Another circle as the sleeve. The sleeve circle is just 1/4" narrower than the armhole circle. This creates horizontal tension and the dimple occurs. Hold a pice of cloth in your hand and pull it horizontally, it will do the same thing. The other cause can be if the height of the sleeve circle is higher than the armhole circle. the excess length falls in and voila, a dimple appears.

    Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.


    I'm so confused. Which buttons were moved? [​IMG]
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by