The Rubinacci Thread.

[coolpapa]

I have some Rubinacci suits that are 10+ years old. Let me take a look and I'll snap some pics and post.

 

[coolpapa]

So hopefully this is helpful to you. Apologies for the perspective, these are taken with the camera at bellybutton level (my wife obliged and I wasn't about to be too demanding) so the lapels look a little high, and the chests more puffy than they actually are. These are in order from oldest to newest for the most part. The first two were made in 2007, I think they're 11 oz or so. The chalk stripe is Harrisons flannel, 13 oz I think. Then grey fresco, a really lightweight sport coat, then a brown Loro Piana fresco. Not sure of the weights of those, but thought the additional context might be helpful. I think the last (most recent) suit in these pics is probably 5-6 years old.

 

[dieworkwear]

So hopefully this is helpful to you. Apologies for the perspective, these are taken with the camera at bellybutton level (my wife obliged and I wasn't about to be too demanding) so the lapels look a little high, and the chests more puffy than they actually are. These are in order from oldest to newest for the most part. The first two were made in 2007, I think they're 11 oz or so. The chalk stripe is Harrisons flannel, 13 oz I think. Then grey fresco, a really lightweight sport coat, then a brown Loro Piana fresco. Not sure of the weights of those, but thought the additional context might be helpful. I think the last (most recent) suit in these pics is probably 5-6 years old.

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Thanks! I appreciate you and your wife taking the time to take these photos. They're really helpful.

Interesting to me that your shoulders seem slightly extended, but there's almost no dip. The only real dip I see is in the fourth photo. Whereas I think Foo and Iammatt took their photos when their jackets were relatively new, and there was a bit more dip at the end.

I may ask Solito to just widen my jackets a bit. I like how his coatmaker makes the lapel, and I generally like the silhouette. But I can feel the jacket on me when I move around. Would prefer a slightly extended shoulder and roomier chest, but Luigi was reluctant to accommodate this on my first order, as he said there's not enough structure inside the jacket to support this. Seems fine on your jacket though. Might go ahead with this whenever travel resumes.

Thanks again for those pics.

 

[comrade]

The jackets seem to fit well but seem to"just" fit : one large meal
might make them tight. Coolpapa appears to be built like me with
big chest and shoulders. Were the jackets roomier when ordered ?

 

[coolpapa]

The jackets seem to fit well but seem to"just" fit : one large meal
would make them tight. Coolpapa appears to be built like me with
big chest and shoulders

Yep, they're all a bit tighter in the waist than usual. I just returned from a two week vacation and stuffed my face and liver the entire time. The first pic is the first suit I had made by Rubinacci and it's probably the tightest. I do have relatively broad shoulders and while not fat, I'm not slim. The angle of the photo also makes it look like I'm puffing out my chest.

 

[Bromley]

I'll admit to kind of liking an old, droopy shoulder.

 

[reidd]

Thanks! I appreciate you and your wife taking the time to take these photos. They're really helpful.

Interesting to me that your shoulders seem slightly extended, but there's almost no dip. The only real dip I see is in the fourth photo. Whereas I think Foo and Iammatt took their photos when their jackets were relatively new, and there was a bit more dip at the end.

I may ask Solito to just widen my jackets a bit. I like how his coatmaker makes the lapel, and I generally like the silhouette. But I can feel the jacket on me when I move around. Would prefer a slightly extended shoulder and roomier chest, but Luigi was reluctant to accommodate this on my first order, as he said there's not enough structure inside the jacket to support this. Seems fine on your jacket though. Might go ahead with this whenever travel resumes.

Thanks again for those pics.

There is no drooping here because these shoulders all look to be normale construction rather than spalla camicia. With the seam allowance pressed back under the sleeve rather than opened back toward the jacket, you get that little "roll" which counteracts any droop. The only droopy Rubinacci shoulders I have seen are when they are extended & constructed shirt sleeve style with wadding/padding at the very end of the shoulder.

Luigi rather seems to always make spalla camicia. I'm sure he can and does cut normale shouldered jackets which should be more easily extended without risk of droop. But in that case, you do loose tha rounded spalla camicia look, if that's important to you.

I actually really like the look of the extended, padded Rubinacci shoulders once they get all broken down. I don't know of another Neapolitan tailor doing quite the same thing.

Maybe the poster can confirm how these were constructed.

 

[Mr. Six]

It looks like the left shoulder on 1, 4, and 6 show a bit of droop, but it could just be light/photo anomalies.

I'm not surprised that Luigi is reluctant. It doesn't really seem like their style (based on my one sport coat ?). But I am now curious how the seam is pressed. I'll have to check later.

 

[dieworkwear]

It looks like the left shoulder on 1, 4, and 6 show a bit of droop, but it could just be light/photo anomalies.

I'm not surprised that Luigi is reluctant. It doesn't really seem like their style (based on my one sport coat ?). But I am now curious how the seam is pressed. I'll have to check later.

Mine are pressed out. I've found over time that I don't like spalla camicia, so I asked him to press the shoulder seams out. I find that it's also a way to get a bit of extension without changing the other parts of the shoulder measurement.

I think if you say nothing, spalla camicia might be his default style, but he's willing to do other styles if you ask.

 

[9thsymph]

I'll admit to kind of liking an old, droopy shoulder.

Agreed. The droop is the charm.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Zizolfi would make all his coats with that type of shoulder construction. Iorio makes my formal suits as well with this shoulder. I don't know the technicalities but there is at least 3 type of shoulders the neapolitans do. The one above, another one with less padding/wadding whatever with no rollino or bump in the end of the shoulder, and the spalla camicia, which also has many variations depending if it's applied to both the front, the back or to all the upper scye of the sleeve.

 

[reidd]

Zizolfi would make all his coats with that type of shoulder construction. Iorio makes my formal suits as well with this shoulder. I don't know the technicalities but there is at least 3 type of shoulders the neapolitans do. The one above, another one with less padding/wadding whatever with no rollino or bump in the end of the shoulder, and the spalla camicia, which also has many variations depending if it's applied to both the front, the back or to all the upper scye of the sleeve.

My favorite Neapolitan jackets have the normale construction without any padding. The shoulder appears "formal" with the roll, but inside there is actually no structure. These jackets wear super comfortably. My spalla camicia jackets are comfortable as well, but these shoulders tend to "hug" my shoulders more, not in a constrictive way but they aren't as comfortable as the empty normale ones which do wear as if they were a bit extended.

 

[dieworkwear]

For those interested, Rubinacci is traveling again.

NYC
Mon Nov 8th (afternoon) to Thu Nov 11th (lunchtime)

Miami
Fri Nov 12th to Sun Nov 14th

Los Angeles
Mon Nov 15th to Wed Feb 17th (midday)

You can make appointments by emailing them at the address on their website.

Mariano Rubinacci - Homepage

marianorubinacci.com

 

[comrade]

Alas, my Lottery plans did not materialize so I'll
have to continue scanning Sartoriale.

 

[othertravel]

Alas, my Lottery plans did not materialize so I'll
have to continue scanning Sartoriale.

What's the pricing for his US tour?