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I didn't either until I started having my suits made. As I understand it (and I would bet Orgetorix would know the full history here) is that the union created designations for factories based on the skills that were required to make the clothes in that factory. It wasn't until later that the makers started advertising based on the union designation of their factory.
A really nice M2m, full canvas, has a shot at being a grade 5, though it could be a grade 3 or 4, depending on who makes it, and other choices, amount of handwork etc. I would consider a golden fleece as a grade 5 when made by MG, not sure today. I would put the 1818 line at 3+ or 4.
When I was shopping around, they typically referred to Grade 6 guys as "bench-grade" suits with almost all the finishing done by hand. And when I checked, everyone was outsourcing to either Oxxford or (most common) Adrian Jules. I don't know where the Corneliani, Canali, Brioni etc m2m's would rate quality wise but I would guess 5 equivalent. Canali is taking over the m2m business from Joseph Aboud since Men's wearhouse bought them. Full Canvas. Nice product that almost anyone on this forum would happy to have in a 10 suit work rotation, but I'm guessing the price point they want is sub $1500, which means a few compromises, so I'm guessing Grade 4. Still damn good and a great work horse suit in a rotation. If, like me, you went to Nordstroms, Dillards, Belk, Macy's and bought the HSM, RRL, Joseph Aboud or Hickey Freeman, you were likely buying a grade 3 suit and were thrilled to have it. Now, you won't pay $15 for one of those in like new condition at goodwill.
Would be interesting to find what went into the criteria chosen for the different grades. Wonder if Jeffreyd has ever discussed.
Waiting to hear of one of my guy's occasional 20% off sales because I want to have a 1/4 lined A Jules blazer made for the summer.
Even at that, a top tailor (like Despos) who makes a pattern for you, uses the best fabrics, hand fits you a couple of times in the process will be vastly superior to that, but at 2x or even 3x the price.
If I was younger and better looking, It might be worth it.
naaaaah.
the more you know! thanks man for the rundown.
and @eazye that LP suit is bossssssss
I didn't either until I started having my suits made. As I understand it (and I would bet Orgetorix would know the full history here) is that the union created designations for factories based on the skills that were required to make the clothes in that factory. It wasn't until later that the makers started advertising based on the union designation of their factory.
A really nice M2m, full canvas, has a shot at being a grade 5, though it could be a grade 3 or 4, depending on who makes it, and other choices, amount of handwork etc. I would consider a golden fleece as a grade 5 when made by MG, not sure today. I would put the 1818 line at 3+ or 4.
When I was shopping around, they typically referred to Grade 6 guys as "bench-grade" suits with almost all the finishing done by hand. And when I checked, everyone was outsourcing to either Oxxford or (most common) Adrian Jules. I don't know where the Corneliani, Canali, Brioni etc m2m's would rate quality wise but I would guess 5 equivalent. Canali is taking over the m2m business from Joseph Aboud since Men's wearhouse bought them. Full Canvas. Nice product that almost anyone on this forum would happy to have in a 10 suit work rotation, but I'm guessing the price point they want is sub $1500, which means a few compromises, so I'm guessing Grade 4. Still damn good and a great work horse suit in a rotation. If, like me, you went to Nordstroms, Dillards, Belk, Macy's and bought the HSM, RRL, Joseph Aboud or Hickey Freeman, you were likely buying a grade 3 suit and were thrilled to have it. Now, you won't pay $15 for one of those in like new condition at goodwill.
Would be interesting to find what went into the criteria chosen for the different grades. Wonder if Jeffreyd has ever discussed.
The employees at a local GW do this. They hide the other shoe of a pair they want in the back until their shift is over and they are able to make a purchase. Really shady staff at this store.
E-thrifted. Bought and paid for with a mix of consignment store funds and ebay bux.
The employees at a local GW do this. They hide the other shoe of a pair they want in the back until their shift is over and they are able to make a purchase. Really shady staff at this store.
Guys,
Any opinions on Walkover shoes? They're on sale at VP now, and the loafers (made in Maine) run about $160. Seems like a decent deal.
Predacator???
Woah!!!
Haven't seen that in years
Thanks bro! Not everything was thrift prices but 80% of what I coped were discounted heavily. For instance, that Post Oalls chorecoat with the beautiful throat latch was like $30. The wife coped 7 beautiful silk kimonos for like $5 a piece.@eazye those are beautiful. Hit me up if those don't perfectly hit you
@barrelntrigger i don't know what to say, killed it with that haul. Makes me want to study abroad in Japan and rack up all the hidden grails in the field.