the top of the line allways has working cuffs. Not always true. This is a major personal preference. Most functional cuff buttons I've seen were on MTM stuff. I have Brioni, Zegna, and Isaia suits/jackets that don't have functional cuffs. If you do find something with working cuffs though, chances are it's decent. You just get better at it with time. Even if there was a list of rules it would be useless until you actually went out and started checking out the stores yourself. Every city will have different brands that pop up more often than others so memorizing a list of 500 different random companies seems kinda useless if 450 of them may never actually end up anywhere near the city you live in. This. Get out to your local stores as often as possible. For example, Kiton is so scarce around here that I've only found one item in my 8+ years of thrifting. With that said, I shouldn't write it off completely because other local thrifters have found Kiton stuff before. Still, get to know your area demographics and style. For example, I doubt you'll be finding Tom Ford, MMM or Dior Homme in the middle of North Dakota, but I'm sure you'll find Oxxford and some high quality local tailored stuff. Lots of cities have excellent tailors and shops that sell high-quality house label stuff. You won't find this stuff on a list.